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  #31  
Old 03-23-2008, 03:57 AM
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[SIZE="4" I think this was time well spent, I happened to notice that the four holes for the coolant entering and leaving the block where not drilled right thru to the water jacket. Probably so there was no chance of hitting the cylinder walls. Anyways I opened them up with the ole rotary file. I also mounted the elephant ears and matched its holes to the block, they where way out. Keeping this thing cool is a big concerne for me and I think this will help some.

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  #32  
Old 03-23-2008, 04:13 AM
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This is before. The top 2 holes were the worst, they could of gone another 1/2" easy. This is after, times four holes it has to help some.

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  #33  
Old 03-23-2008, 11:45 AM
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Good Catch........
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  #34  
Old 03-23-2008, 12:58 PM
mpracehemi mpracehemi is offline
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Default Toad:to modify or not?

I'm sorry to hear about your friend. Not to bust your b++ls, but now-a-days you or someone else can replace the floor with repop metal, say rust got to the floor boards and had to be replaced, the car still retains the value. I have a '71 Challenger R/T, yes sometimes I get dirty looks for what I did to the car, but it's MY car. The floor in some places were rusted through, so I just replaced with sheetmetal. Remember it's only metal, it can be replaced with new metal. That's my philosophy. Say a '71 HEMI conv. had the quarters replaced because of a mishap, it still retained it's value.
OK, if you decide to keep the metal as it is, changing to a ladderbar set-up would require a crossmember (round tube) almost in front of the stock hangers (for the front eyelet of leafs) with a couple of braces (to change back to stock, relatively easy), then for the shocks (coilovers) a tube up in the stock shock area. It's a pretty easy conversion, and to change back to stock. If you decide to cut the floor out, leave a inch-half (easy to put a stock floor back in) all the way around.
Put the motor back in, give your good friend a ride. Again, I'm sorry to hear about the situation. Then do the changes, whatever you decide on. Also, ditch the m/t sportmans, get the dot's. Hoosier's are cheaper than the m/t's and do the same job. For the street, the Hoosier quick time pro's and D-4 compound slicks for the track.
Do you have a welder? If so, you can save alot of $$$ by doing the work yourself. As you can tell, I do the work myself. I learned/taught myself to weld. When I bought my car in '95, I decided that my car would never be at anyones shop, except my own garage. I did research by looking at other's cars, what was done and how I could do it to my likings. All it is, is time and money. Really, if a person takes their car to a shop, they're paying for their time and maybe for their mistakes (do you think that shops don't make mistakes, we are all human, we make mistakes) I just don't have alot of money to pay for someone else's mistakes, and shops are not just working on your car, so it'll take time also.

I believe that if anyone can use a tape measure, leveler, a square, sawl-sawl/cuttting wheel or plasma cutter (I don't have, yet), and a welder, a person can do the work themselves. That's all it is. Maybe confidence, but again, it's only metal, it can be cut and redone. Here's a story (I get going on long replies) my friend has a '68 RR, he wanted to get rid of the leafs and have a ladderbar set-up. He wanted to take the car to a shop that was going to charge him $4000 to do the job. I finally convinced him that I/him can do it. It took us three weeks, working on it on Thurs. and Friday's (the days he had off). We used a Lincoln 110 welder wire feed with gas. When we got done, he took it to a chassis/alignment shop who works on racing chassis, and the guy asked who did the work because the work (what we did) was bitchen'. My friend and I had that rearend in there, this was before I did my back-half. Boy, I had a hard time convincing my friend that we could do this and it payed off. Now he does all of his own fabrication, what I'm saying is if we can, a shop can, anyone can. If a person messess up, it can be redone, it's only metal. I did my cage using my lincoln 110 with flex core wire, and got NHRA certified to 8.50's. I broke down and bought a Miller 220 welder and wish I had this to do my cage.
Well, I'll get off the computer now and let this sink in, alot of info.
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  #35  
Old 03-23-2008, 02:57 PM
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MP, I like the way you think.................

Toad, what's the status on your rod/cam clearance, did it work out?
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  #36  
Old 03-24-2008, 10:23 AM
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The cam/rod did work out, but I'm getting the engine guy to double check me. The block goes in today, it looks like a .007" cut will square things up and give it a zero deck, then a final hone and it's ready. They'll have the short block ready for when the rockers and valves get here.

MP I understand what your saying, and I have the tools (minus the plasma cutter too). The thing that is holding me back is I think after a couple of seasons I'll put the 383, tranny and rear end back in it and buy a purpose built race car for this combo. Things don't get started until late May up here so I've time to decide.

Well it's 7:00 AM and I've been working on the main stud girdle all night so I can take the block in today and I'm bagged. I'll post the pitures of what I did later.
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  #37  
Old 03-24-2008, 11:27 AM
mpracehemi mpracehemi is offline
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I need help on how to down load pics. to this site. I try to down size my pics. and it's not working. I have a hp computer with window vista. I'm relatively new to this computer stuff, so be kind to me and put in simple english, like you're telling a 4 yr. old how to do something (HA HA). THANKS
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  #38  
Old 03-24-2008, 01:51 PM
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You need a photo host. i use Imageshack.

go to this www.imageshack.us/

ok, see where it says "brouse", click on that

ok, you should be a your "pictures" on your computor

ok, select the one you want and click on it


ok, now you are back at imageshack and your pic URL should be in the box there

ok, now just below that box is a list of pic sizes to chosse from..just click on the size you want like "19 inch monitor"

OK, now see where it says "Host it" ckick on that it will take a few seconds


ok, now your pic should be visisble on imageshack

Ok, there will be a bunch of URLs to choose from. just drop down to the very last one "dirct link" and click to make it back lit{blue}

Ok now Right Click and select "copy"

Ok now the URL is in your mouse

OK, go back to moparchat and in the reply box, Right Click again and select "paste"

Ok, the URL should appear but your not quite done yet

OK in front of the URL, type [img]

ok, now go to the end of the URL line and type [/img]

NOW you are done! just hit the reply button and the pic will appear in your reply on the thread you are on.
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  #39  
Old 03-24-2008, 10:51 PM
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I wasn't going to do this but with the rockers a few weeks off I did.

DISCLAIMER--PLEASE NOBODY DO THIS ON MY SAY SO!!!! It was expensive and uneccesary. (Two things that have never stopped me before) It's also not based on any experince. (Another thing that I generally ignore)

Anyways I had 8 spacers made up, .500" tall and .750" in diameter and had them "pin" fit to the main studs. The bolt comes later.



I put none drying dye on the end of the spacers, put them on the studs and then CAREFULLY put the girdle on. Then took the girdle to the machine shop and had the holes machined for a press in fit for spacers. Optimistic or what!
Well it worked on 6 out of the 8!!! The other two I had to oblong the holes a bit so I lost the press in fit but when I do the final assembly I'll weld the spacers to the girdle.




This is how it looks, now the bolt from the first pic, it's in the top corner of the pic. With the girdle and spacer installed I drilled and taped the block in all four corners for a 5/16'' bolt and drilled a counter sink in the girdle.





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  #40  
Old 03-25-2008, 12:32 AM
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My rings came in today, they're Childs & Albert zero gap rings. I didn't realize that they were a 2 piece ring. The fine ring, .100 thick and the same height as the ring, 1/16", goes in first and blocks the back of the gap. Only the second ring is like that, top and oil rings are standerd design.

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  #41  
Old 03-25-2008, 02:58 AM
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Here's the Cuda



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  #42  
Old 03-26-2008, 12:47 PM
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Sweet Dude
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  #43  
Old 03-26-2008, 06:22 PM
mpracehemi mpracehemi is offline
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B1, I tried doing what you said to do on posting pictures, I even went on the house desktop to do it. I got my picture on imageshack but I can't get it over to moparchat. Remember I'm new to this computer world. I did follow the steps you sent, I'm still not clear on on to paste, the url doesn't show up when I click (right side of mouse?), it shows up side bar to paste, copy, etc. and I click on paste and it just highlights. What am I doing wrong or what am I not doing ? See, I'm trying to learn new stuff, trying with help.
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  #44  
Old 03-27-2008, 01:43 AM
OriginalB1 OriginalB1 is offline
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Ok if you got em on imageshack thats agood start!

Now, drop[ down all the way to the last URL given. It will say Direct Link.

Now, click on it to high lite it.

Once you have it high lighted, right click when you do that you will see a little menu, click on COPY.

NOW, go back to moparchat and, in the reply box, right click and this time select Paste.

Voila. the URL will appear in the reply box. Now joust add the brackets like i said.
[img] in front and [/img] in back.

now just hit submitt and the pic should appear in your post!
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  #45  
Old 03-27-2008, 10:42 AM
mpracehemi mpracehemi is offline
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B1, I did exactly how you told me to do it. I printed out what you sent me so I could go down the list. The problem I'm have is that after I copy, and go over to moparchat (now I have two windows open, one for this site then another window for imageshack, I minimize one to be on the other) I have the thread open to reply, then tried to go quick reply and when I right click and hit paste, nothin' happens, the curser is flashing but no pics. show up. Well, I'll be shutting my computers down until Sunday. Thanks
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  #46  
Old 03-27-2008, 11:49 AM
OriginalB1 OriginalB1 is offline
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Some times i have trouble with quick reply. Try it again when you are ready and use the advanced reply..not sure if that is the problem but its worth a try.

so you are copying from image shack ok?

usually if you mess up and make a "typo" it will show the URL line instead of the picture. Not sure what you may be doing wrong..but if you miss any of the steps it wont work.
Yes sometimes you have to experiment with different sizes for differnt camera settings on your pic. If you have a high resolution pic, it may appear HUGE on the message board. In that case, just use the size that says " for message boards". hope this helps...hang in there you will get it..
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  #47  
Old 03-27-2008, 12:03 PM
OriginalB1 OriginalB1 is offline
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I've never tried leaving the window open to imageshack. usally just exit the site. BTW, you dont have to be logged into moparchat to do it. Once you have the image "copied"(into your mouse) , you can go any where on the internet and post it.

I would try, exit moparchat, go to imageshack do everything there, then go back to moparchat. Go to advanced reply and paste the URL. put the brackets on it and hit submitt reply..should work.
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  #48  
Old 03-29-2008, 08:10 AM
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MP if you can't get that to work, you could try Photobucket. I posted a thread on it on the Off Topic page, the thread is Posting Photos. It seems simpler than what your trying.
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  #49  
Old 03-29-2008, 01:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toad490 View Post
MP if you can't get that to work, you could try Photobucket. I posted a thread on it on the Off Topic page, the thread is Posting Photos. It seems simpler than what your trying.

That may be true guys, Sometimes if i find a way to do something i stick to it even if there is a better way..lol

The basic steps are universal, i think:

Find a Photo host like Photobucket or imageshack.

Upload your pics to it.

Then get a URL to the pic.

Thats pretty much it.
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  #50  
Old 03-30-2008, 06:41 AM
mpracehemi mpracehemi is offline
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Move pics. to my thread
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  #51  
Old 03-30-2008, 06:44 AM
mpracehemi mpracehemi is offline
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Hey, I finally got it!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks for helping me!!!! I tried with (photobucket)the recom'd and too small, then tried the next choice and here it is. This is my baby, in the above pics. I have one more full pass and I get my nhra license!!
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  #52  
Old 03-30-2008, 12:31 PM
RacerHog RacerHog is offline
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Sweet..........Lic at Irwindale????

I thought i saw this car in a photo at Irwindale....

Good luck....

Love the car
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  #53  
Old 03-30-2008, 12:47 PM
mpracehemi mpracehemi is offline
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Yeah, Irwindale is nhra track. That 1/8 mile is close to home (22 miles). Alot of people get their license there, well ones who have quick toys. RacerHog, you're close to the track, right ? I plan on going out this Thurs. to do my last pass., do it early then watch some racing.
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  #54  
Old 03-30-2008, 02:21 PM
OriginalB1 OriginalB1 is offline
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I belive you've got it!

Car looks very cool, and that hemi!! wow..nice! What kinda times are you running?
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  #55  
Old 03-30-2008, 03:18 PM
mpracehemi mpracehemi is offline
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Default My car with pics.

Thanks for the compliments!! My times aren't that great, so far my best 60ft. is 1.35, and the 1/8 is 6.29 which equals approx. 9.87 in the quarter. I'm still sorting out the chassis, seeing what gives me the best times plus I need more seat time (getting used to the car again, been over a year since I drove it, still not used to the big meats) . In the future, I plan on building/fabricating a tube chassis, I need to get the weight down (right now, just the car weighs in at 3400#'s, then with me at 160, total is 3560#'s including 5 gal. of fuel.) I want to glass everything and lexan windows, I was at mopars@thestrip talking to the people who had e-bodies (racecars) and they all had the cars down to 2640-2800 #'s. They say for every 100#'s taken off is a 10th of the time. So, if I shed 600 #'s, I should be running 9.40's with the power I'm making right now, and you know I'll increase the power (speedbug bit hard), I already have a sheetmetal intake (hogans) waiting for new carbs. (have to save up for that), by the time I get all this done, it'll be time to go through the motor and hp gains. TIME & MONEY!!!! Never ending project. It's fun though. I'm going to post pics.of my interior, still the stock dash and door panels, with a 10 pt. cage.

SORRY CUDA/511", I moved my pics. to my thread, sorry for intruding. I finally posted pics. with help and posted on your thread.
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  #56  
Old 03-30-2008, 05:33 PM
OriginalB1 OriginalB1 is offline
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That not exactly slow! Anytime your in the nines, that is haulin, IMHO!

Hey sorry Toad, did'nt realize we are hi jacking your thread..got confused on who's topic we were on..lol
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  #57  
Old 03-31-2008, 03:14 AM
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Not a problem, the more that read it the more that'll post pics. Pics are good.

Looking at HPs pics has got me itching to tackle the roll cage. I have a 8 point from Art Morrison, it's bent for the stock interior.... we shall see.

I've got a pipe notcher, welder and stuff but I haven't done a cage. The instructions a pretty much limited to which bar goes were but it looks fairly staight forward.
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  #58  
Old 03-31-2008, 04:13 AM
mpracehemi mpracehemi is offline
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Hey TOAD, I don't intend to insult you're knowledge on welding, I'm giving my insight on this so a youngster reading this thread can do the same. Welding in a cage is pretty easy, that eight pt. was my first weld years ago. Lay the tubes out on the floor along side the car. I didn't want to cut the steel package tray (speaker area), so I slid the tubes through the speaker holes and welded to the hoop, I made it so I could still remove the back seat by raising the ends (in trunk, near tailliights) and cutting 45's on tips, I didn't have a tube bender. Just remember to weld plates to the floor at each point. On the door bars, you can order swing out clevisess through chassisworks, at the time I didn't know about them, it makes it so much easier to get in and out. When setting up door bars, sit in your seat, you want the bars inbetween your shoulder and elbow, also leave room for stock door panels and door release handle. When you're welding the plates to the floor, it'll be easy to 'blow through' so, weld like your doing a spot weld on-off on the trigger and of cource don't weld in same area too long or you'll heat warp the metal. Go to chassisworks web site and it'll give you a good idea where each tube goes. I like chassis works products, I can see the quality is better than others, plus it's closer to me than others, shipping is quicker/cheaper. If you have any questions, just ask, I'll help any way I can. Before doing any cutting, add a inch on each side, for the fishmouth (notcher), I just used a grinder to do the fishmouthing, I didn't like the tubenotcher. It's better to kreep up on fit than to cut too much off.
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  #59  
Old 03-31-2008, 11:31 PM
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Well put...I agree....
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  #60  
Old 04-01-2008, 09:59 AM
DartGT66 DartGT66 is offline
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And if you don't think tehre is enough of bending and notching in a 10 or 12
point cage....wellcome to the SFI world!

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