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Old 05-14-2010, 11:24 AM
AVENGER29 AVENGER29 is offline
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Default 440 To 727 Transmission Issue

Trying to help a body with a transmission issue, 440 big block early 70's bolted to a 727 transmission in a 68 Cuda, good strong engine on nos, typically street driven, few passes here and there, mostly daily driver keep blowing up torque converters, lasting 70/80 miles, last 2 were high dollar B&M holeshots, cant keep converters in the car, last 2 times it scramble the transmission, trans being rebuilt again, new B&M holeshot sitting on the bench, were afraid to put it back together for the 4th time, read somewhere issue with alignment or since the assemblies are from the early 70's , possible locking converter type trans, if so, how do i tell, any ideas??? I dont run bigblocks or 727's so my experience is a little narrow....
thanks
Dodge29
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Old 05-14-2010, 12:04 PM
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Slingshot383 Slingshot383 is offline
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Yeah, don't use an off the shelf converter for that kind of motor! Call Coan, PTC or Dynamic and have them custom build a converter for that combination.
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Old 05-14-2010, 04:06 PM
John Kunkel John Kunkel is offline
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When the converters "blow up" what are the symptoms?

Lockup and non-lockup converters won't physically interchange.
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Old 05-15-2010, 06:16 PM
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bulldog426 bulldog426 is offline
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Originally Posted by Slingshot383 View Post
Yeah, don't use an off the shelf converter for that kind of motor! Call Coan, PTC or Dynamic and have them custom build a converter for that combination.
why's that?? why not use an off the shelf b&m or tci etc?? there's lots of guys with alot more motor than a mild 440 with off the shelf converters..

i'd say after the rebuild, before i ran the b&m find a good inexpensive stock converter to run for a while to make sure it doesn't tear up, then if all goes well throw in the expensive one..
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Old 05-16-2010, 09:10 AM
peg leg peg leg is offline
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Default Tci

The TCI converter in my Demon 360 lasted 700 miles before it developed a serious leak. It was the Streetfighter version.
NOS and 440 torque require serious converters.
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Old 05-16-2010, 11:54 AM
68 roadbird 68 roadbird is offline
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Before I'd waste my money on the after market,cheap quality converters,just scrounge the junk yards for an old truck,van,for a 145k,166k,work great. I run a 166k in my 69 RR 383,727,it stalls at 2600,most B&M,or what ever after market you have,claim 3000,but don't get the job done. I,paid $50 bucks for mine.
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Old 05-28-2010, 09:30 PM
Cudadrag Cudadrag is offline
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I am replacing my Hughes (4000 stall) with another after developing a small leak around the center weld. The converter lasted about 80-100 hard runs. My motor now has about 100 horse more than that motor setup with all them runs. I will be watching this thread with interest. But my experience with "Off the shelf" Hughes is good. But if someone has an input for a sound alternative We are all ears.
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Old 05-31-2010, 02:04 PM
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bulldog426 bulldog426 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cudadrag View Post
I am replacing my Hughes (4000 stall) with another after developing a small leak around the center weld. The converter lasted about 80-100 hard runs. My motor now has about 100 horse more than that motor setup with all them runs. I will be watching this thread with interest. But my experience with "Off the shelf" Hughes is good. But if someone has an input for a sound alternative We are all ears.
sounds like a bad weld, why not just run some more bead around it and
go?
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Old 06-01-2010, 12:22 PM
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Slingshot383 Slingshot383 is offline
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If you are wanting to race and get the most out of your combination, you will have a converter made to match what you have. An off the shelf converter is a compromise, they also may not have the better stators and sprags in them, and might not have the anti-ballon plates that increase cnverter life on them.
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Old 06-01-2010, 10:10 PM
Cudadrag Cudadrag is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bulldog426 View Post
sounds like a bad weld, why not just run some more bead around it and
go?
That is a real possibity. It seem straight forward, but the problem is "It seems" I think I might try that. Then bring the converter and plate in and have it balanced then cross my fingers. As I mentioned the converter has worked great. When I applied the additional 100 horse it blew the drive shaft and the leak started. I'm looking to do 10.5 but it may be a little stronger. Poor me, too much power?
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Old 06-01-2010, 10:16 PM
aarracer aarracer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cudadrag View Post
That is a real possibity. It seem straight forward, but the problem is "It seems" I think I might try that. Then bring the converter and plate in and have it balanced then cross my fingers. As I mentioned the converter has worked great. When I applied the additional 100 horse it blew the drive shaft and the leak started. I'm looking to do 10.5 but it may be a little stronger. Poor me, too much power?

If you have not already done so, I believe blowing the driveshaft also cause for checking the transmission spragg assembly.
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