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  #1  
Old 03-27-2011, 07:21 PM
cudanut jim cudanut jim is offline
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BS! Durango brakes

First of all, I know there's a place for Durango's but there's nobody there, so I came to my 'Cuda spot for an answer. I put new rear brake cylinders on my 1999 Durango. I bled them correctly. The brakes are hard, but when I start the engine the brakes get spongy and almost go to the floor. I'm thinking the booster is bad, but I'm open for other ideas. Thanks for any help.
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Old 03-28-2011, 07:36 AM
fox fox is offline
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That isn't the booster! The pedal will be firm anytine you have it bleed correctly. With the engine running a bad booster will cause a stiff/firm pedal not soft.
You have air in the system still. Did you beed the rear brakes after the work?
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Old 03-28-2011, 09:26 AM
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nhdriver nhdriver is offline
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Bleed all 4 corners again start with the rear (furthest from the master cyl.) then do the fronts (pass side first). Bleed each wheel 4-5 times (pump pedal several times, hold then bleed & repeat). If this doesn't do it you may have other problems (master or booster).
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Old 03-28-2011, 05:41 PM
cudanut jim cudanut jim is offline
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I bled all 4 corners after I put the new rear cylinders on. I guess I'll keep trying until I get frustrated enough to quit, unless it actually cooperates and works. Thanks for the help. The weird thing is, that when I open the front bleeders the pedal goes all the way to the floor like it's supposed to, and when I bleed the back brakes the pedal is very hard to press down with nthe bleeders open. It seems strange to me.
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Old 03-28-2011, 09:39 PM
whtbaron whtbaron is offline
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Check the brake lines to the rear for damage/pinching and the flex line to the rearend for decomposition. Still sounds like air in the system to me. If you aren't getting full pressure to the back, maybe it's not being properly bled due to fluid not being forced back the way it should be.
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Old 03-29-2011, 08:28 AM
fox fox is offline
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Maybe you need to explain your procedure for bleeding them?
Two people or are you doing it alone?
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  #7  
Old 03-29-2011, 10:25 AM
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nhdriver nhdriver is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cudanut jim View Post
I bled all 4 corners after I put the new rear cylinders on. I guess I'll keep trying until I get frustrated enough to quit, unless it actually cooperates and works. Thanks for the help. The weird thing is, that when I open the front bleeders the pedal goes all the way to the floor like it's supposed to, and when I bleed the back brakes the pedal is very hard to press down with nthe bleeders open. It seems strange to me.
Check the rubber hose that runs from the "T" on the rear end housing to your steel brake line, Some times these deteriorate internally & can block fluid from flowing to your rear brakes.
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Old 03-30-2011, 06:44 PM
cudanut jim cudanut jim is offline
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My bleeding procedure is: One guy outside and one inside pressing pedal. R/R first. 1) press pedal down and hold, 2) open bleeder for a few seconds and close, 3) release pedal and repeat procedure a couple times while periodically checking fluid level in resevoir. 4) go to next bleeder on L/R and repeat. I replaced the brake line to the rear last summer due to rust and a leak. worked fine until recently.
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Old 04-01-2011, 07:10 AM
chirorod chirorod is offline
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I get the impression that the guy with the inside job isn't pumping the pedal. You have to pump the pedal at least 5-6 times to build up enough pressure to compress the air in the lines and expel it. Fill master cylinder. So, with all bleeders closed, start at RR, pump 5-6 times or more until some pressure is felt at pedal, hold pressure, open bleeder and look for fluid and bubbles, pressure being held on pedal as it goes to floor. Hold pressure, tighten bleeder. Pressure on pedal cannot be released while bleeder is open. Pump again as previous, repeat whole procedure as many times as it takes until fluid comes out in strong, steady stream with no, repeat no, bubbles. Then on to LR, same procedure. Then RF, then LF. A little trick to get things started before beginning the actual bleeding procedure is to open all four bleeders and let everything sit for a few minutes until fluid starts to gravity flow. Then tighten all bleeders and begin. Make sure you keep checking master cylinder. If it goes empty, you will to have start all over.
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Old 04-04-2011, 04:12 PM
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crc70 crc70 is offline
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take your bleederscrews all the way out and make sure they're not plugged.
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