88 Daytona Turbo Shelby Z won't run

[TimberwolfPB]

It just plain died halfway into a parking lot. Fuel pump doesn't run, and no spark. Timing belt is not broke. Cranks fine, gauges are functional (light up anyway)
Think it's the PCM? Anyway to test? Help?

[dwc43]

Check the fuel pump rellay. If it cranks and sounds funny, like no compression or broke time belt, it may be a map sensor. Let me know if you need more help.

[TimberwolfPB]

Well, it's got no spark either...

[dwc43]

It's been a while since I worked for the dealer,but see if this model has a cam sensor. I don't think it has. Next check the distributor pickup. If this is the two wire or pickup type one is for the ignition and the other is for computer to refrence where the number one cylinder is at.
You can check the computer codes by cycling the key on-off-on-off-on just like that and the check engine light will flash a code. They are all two digits so for code 12 it would flash once pause and then flash twice. You can get codes from any service manual or I could look them up if you need me to.

[Mopard]

This is just an idea just off the top of my head while reading, check the wire plug that plugs into the the fuel pump in the back of the tank.

Also the coil could have gone bad. Mine has several times and I still can not fix the problem. I have replaced the coil at least 5 or more times.

Just a suggestion.

[Mopard]

You might want to also check the ground strap (ground wire) that grounds the injectors. It should be somewhere around the fuel rail. It may not have a proper ground. I also have a 1988 Dodge Daytona Shelby Z, well at least the motor is a 88 Shelby Z out of a Daytona.

Just another suggestion.

[2.2lover]

yes check for power at the fuel pump.

[TimberwolfPB]

I appreciate everyone's help, and I thought it seemed like a fuel problem too. But there is no spark either. Would lack of power to the fuel system also have the computer shutting off the spark?

[2.2lover]

yes it is one and the same....they both draw power from the same point when the key turns on there is a two second surge of power it's either a bad fuel pump or bad pickupcoil...(the two wires off the distributer.

[2.2lover]

if a test light shows power at the plug to the pump when key first on but when plugged back in the pump makes no noise...its the pump. hope you tanks less than half full!!!

[dwc43]

Originally posted by Mopard
This is just an idea just off the top of my head while reading, check the wire plug that plugs into the the fuel pump in the back of the tank.

Also the coil could have gone bad. Mine has several times and I still can not fix the problem. I have replaced the coil at least 5 or more times.

Just a suggestion.

Hey Mopard check to see if this model has a ballast resistor to the coil. Some did and if it's shorted and pulling to much current it will overheat the coil. Just for the sake of it are you sure the wires are on the correct sides?Might try mounting it in a cooler spot.

[TimberwolfPB]

ok, got a chance to tniker with it a little bit today.
Found no voltage on the + side of the ignition coil. There are two wires here on that terminal. I hooked a jumper straight from the battery to the coil and the fuel pump started running, there was spark, and the car fired right up! Unhook the jumper and it would shut off. So, I am guessing, somewhere between the ignition switch and the coil, there has to be a break. Maybe a fusible link? I dunno. I am half tempted to run a cheater wire into the car with a toggle switch and just flip it on when I need to start the car. Kind of like a race car
Any quick and easy checks to find what could be causing the breakdown in power? I hate to trace the wires all through the harness for this
Also, I found a code 12 (easy to explain, dead battery a couple weeks ago) and a code 16.
Thoughts on the code 16?

[dwc43]

Don't hook up that toggle switch. It can feed backwards through the system and destroy sesitive electronics. Had a guy do that to a fuel pump relay to get it to the dealer. One week it just needed a relay,a week later a fuel pump and another relay,and a week later a other relay and a computer.
He came back to the shop which was against the rules and starts cussing me out saying it was my fault. By now I had had enough and got back in his face and told him every time it came in here with that red jumper wire in it he was tearing it up and if he'd quit joy rigging it it would be fine.
Month later he came back an appologised to me ands said I was in the right. So don't do it.
Look on the drivers side next to fire wall for fuse links and it could be a bad ign. switch.

[2.2lover]

yeah theres a ign. fuse thats prolly what went.

[Mopard]

Hey Mopard check to see if this model has a ballast resistor to the coil. Some did and if it's shorted and pulling to much current it will overheat the coil. Just for the sake of it are you sure the wires are on the correct sides?Might try mounting it in a cooler spot.

Originally posted by dwc43

I have not seen a ballast resistor to the coil. Unless it is hidden somewhere in the wireing between the coil and the firewall. I thought it would be somewhere close to the coil. I do think something is overheat the coil. It gets so hot you can't touch it. But I have been told that this is normal. It sounds as if something is shorted somewhere.

The wires should be on the correct sides. Unless they were
crossed before I got the car. The green wire with the black tracer, "or small black line" goes to the POS. side of the coil. The Black wire with the yellow tracer goes to the NEG. side of the coil. The coil was mounted in different spots but did not help

[Mopard]

Code 16 in my book says "Loss of battery voltage".

[Crustycuda]

Hey,

Having the EXACT SAME prob with an '85 Turbo GTS. What I have found was a corroded wire connection from the power module to the pink power wire. They joined at a crummy "splice" to the rear of the battery on the inner driver's fender.After I repaired that, I got the fuel pump to power up and saw voltage at the coil. I think the acid/acid fumes get to the wiring ... A very cheesy design.

BTW, now I am having overcharging probs. Suspect the long run of the two green wires from the power module to the alternator. Have you seen this as well ?

Will be interested to see if you find/fix this problem. Good luck, it's a real nightmare.

[Mopard]

I called 3 or 4 different places today to find out which wire is the POS. and which is the NEG. wires to the coil just in case they were crossed. But they are not. I even got a second opinion. I was hopeing that they were and that was the problem. Well, back to square 1.

[dwc43]

Originally posted by Mopard
I called 3 or 4 different places today to find out which wire is the POS. and which is the NEG. wires to the coil just in case they were crossed. But they are not. I even got a second opinion. I was hopeing that they were and that was the problem. Well, back to square 1.

I'll check with a friend of mine at the dealer tomorrow. I have to go and check on some manifolds for a race car. Yes, manifolds. It's 5/8 mile oval and Nascar run. Very restricted modified street class. If you like you can check my other post about it on performance talk and circle track on here.
I want to see if the computer controls the coils voltage going to it as well as the ground trigger wire. It may take the place of the resistor on this model.

[Mopard]

Thanks for all your help and everyones help on this matter. This coil problem is driveing me crazy. All of your help is greatly appreciated.

[Mopard]

I also checked the computers fault codes and there is none.

[Garland Schlenker]

had the same problem a couple of years ago. worked on it for days but couldnt find the problem. finally took it to the dealer they found it in less than an hour. the distributor wasnt grounding. had dirt and grease between the distributor shaft flange and the block. hope this helps

[bfs426]

Did you check the Auto Shutdown Relay? It controls the fuel pump, injectors, and ignition coil. It has to recieve a signal from the distributor, or it shuts down.

[skydome]

I had an 88 turbo 2 do exactly the same thing to me. Behind the battery, there is a bunch of fusible links. The main one for the ignition was fried. Slapped in one from a 71 Dart and she's still going. On some, there is also a main battery splice in the harness behind the batt. In road salt climates they will rot out. I've got a few cars for free this way. No one could fix them(CHEAPLY).

[Mopard]

I don't think there is any dirt between the shaft flange and the block. I keep the engine pretty clean. I don't think it is a fuseable link either because it only happens between 3 to six months. Most of the time it runs perfect then the coil dies.