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  #1  
Old 01-14-2003, 12:48 PM
Mopard Mopard is offline
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Post 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby 2.2 Turbo Intercooled 5-speed with T-tops. How much?

I have recently came across a 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby 2.2 Turbo Intercooled 5-speed with T-tops. It has the turbo rise hood and all the ground effects. It has 154000 miles on it. The only thing wrong with it is the clutch is bad, or so the guy says . I think the tranny is gone to. I have not heard it run yet. The guy was leaving when I stopped to check it out. It has been sitting for about 2 years. How much is the car worth considering the condition?

Also what is the difference between a Shelby Z and a Shelby if any? It just says Daytona Shelby on the back.
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  #2  
Old 01-14-2003, 09:56 PM
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The main difference between the ShelbyZ and Shelby are the year. Shelby Z was 87 and 88, in 89 they went to the plain Shelby. Pretty much the same car as the 88 except for the common block engine and different nose/ground effects. 89 was also the last year for T-tops.

Hard to say a price. It really depends on exactly whats wrong with it, and how much you want to pay. They're easy enough to fix for the most part.

Whats his asking price? Or do you just make an offer?
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  #3  
Old 01-16-2003, 10:29 PM
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What do you mean about the common block engine? Compared to the engine that I have? I have a 1988 Dodge Daytona Shelby Z 2.2 Turbo with an Automatic tranny. As of now I am not sure as to what he will take for it. I was wondering what I should pay depending on what he says.
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Old 01-16-2003, 11:17 PM
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I think what Mopar_Nutz was trying to point out is that since this is a 89+ car you are looking at it has the common block engine casting. This casting was beefed up, and considered more reliable for high hp applications. It is pretty much accepted by most turbo dodgers that the 88 and below block is good up until about 250 hp reliably. Supposedly anything higher than 250hp on the pre 89 blocks will cause the mains to fail.
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Old 01-18-2003, 09:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by mpbiv
It is pretty much accepted by most turbo dodgers that the 88 and below block is good up until about 250 hp reliably. Supposedly anything higher than 250hp on the pre 89 blocks will cause the mains to fail.
Just curious, is that 250 number for ALL 88 and older engines, or is that just the older TI engines? Since the 87 and 88 TII's were built quite a bit tougher than the TI's, can't they take a little more abuse?
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Old 01-18-2003, 11:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mopar_nutz


Just curious, is that 250 number for ALL 88 and older engines, or is that just the older TI engines? Since the 87 and 88 TII's were built quite a bit tougher than the TI's, can't they take a little more abuse?
I am pretty sure its true for all of the pre 89 stuff. All the blocks before then were essentially the same casting. The forged crank of the TII might give you a little bit of an advantage but probably just by buying you more time and slowing the effects at that power level. Of course if there was some sort of main cap girdle for these engine you could probably build a non common block with the same strength as a common block
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Old 01-18-2003, 11:18 AM
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Ok I finally got to DDG (only a few minutes later) so here are two quotes I took from the turbo database under the shortblock section:

Quote:
A forged crank might not be a bad idea in an early block application that's close to/over the 250 hp mark but this is only postponing the inevitable failure of the crank or main cap due to block twisting.
Quote:
In 1989 Chrysler introduced the common block engines- As the name implies all engines used the same casting and changes were made during machining based on what the casting was going to be used for. 12 pounds of extra material was added to the base of the block in the form of stiffer bulkheads and larger main caps to increase structural rigidity. A common block is a must for any engine making over 250 hp for any length of time otherwise broken main caps or crankshaft will be the result
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Old 01-18-2003, 02:41 PM
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Thanks for the additional info. So what is the stock HP from the factory for my 1988 Dodge Daytona Shelby Z 2.2 turbo?
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Old 01-18-2003, 05:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mopard
Thanks for the additional info. So what is the stock HP from the factory for my 1988 Dodge Daytona Shelby Z 2.2 turbo?
You said your Shelby Z was auto, right? That would mean it's a TI (non-intercooled), so the power would be something like 146hp and 168# torque.

The TII Shelby Z would be 174hp, and 200-210# torque. I think Chrysler said 200, but I've heard the 210 number alot and seen it in a few mags.

The 89 Shelby TI would have 150 hp, 180# torque.
with the 89 TII being the same as 87 and 88 174/200-210)
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  #10  
Old 01-18-2003, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by mpbiv
Ok I finally got to DDG (only a few minutes later) so here are two quotes I took from the turbo database under the shortblock section:



I'm probably thinking of the entire engine as a package, instead of just the block. I know the TII and TI blocks from 88 back are the same. But the TII's have the beefier internals that would allow a little more power to be run thru them. But the block strength would be the same.

At least thats a possibility?

Either way, 89+ block is better. And thats why I have one in my garage
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  #11  
Old 01-18-2003, 09:11 PM
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Was there ever a TII with an automatic tranny?
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Old 01-18-2003, 09:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mopard
Was there ever a TII with an automatic tranny?
Nope, the automatics were not "rated" for the power of the TII's.
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  #13  
Old 01-19-2003, 01:09 AM
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:shock:



So that means that the 88 Daytona Shelby Z that the motor I now have came out of was a TI Shelby Z instead of a TII. I thought that it was a TII because of the type of Turbo set up that it had. It also orignaly had a Mitsi turbo instead of a Garrett. The intake to the turbo was different than my log style intake. I orignaly thought that most if not all the TI's had a log style intake.
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Old 01-19-2003, 01:14 AM
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Well TI's up to 87 came with the Garrett turbo, and with the mitsu 88+. The mitsu configuration wise "looks" like the garrett turbo they put on the TII's. The mitsu turbo is a clear give away that you have a TI.
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  #15  
Old 01-19-2003, 01:41 AM
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content

I just got some new info on the car.

The guy told me that the title had a lean against it for around 5 Grand

But he is still wanting to sell it.
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Old 01-19-2003, 04:29 AM
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Buy it cheap and use the parts for a T-II conversion on your Shelby Z.
Tony
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  #17  
Old 01-19-2003, 01:39 PM
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Make sure that lean is paid off before you buy that Daytona. If you purchase that vehicle and transfer the title into your name, you will be responsible for that lean of $5,000 and the purchase price. (Expensive Daytona)
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Old 01-19-2003, 02:34 PM
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Default Re: BE CAREFUL

Quote:
Originally posted by Ram-N-Time
Make sure that lean is paid off before you buy that Daytona. If you purchase that vehicle and transfer the title into your name, you will be responsible for that lean of $5,000 and the purchase price. (Expensive Daytona)
Good point. I was suggesting buying the car for parts, and leaving the previous owner to deal with the lien. The downside to this of course would be not ever being able to drive the car because you have no title, but if you used it as a parts/donor car, I can't see where that would matter.
Tony
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Old 01-19-2003, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by tonyz2897
Buy it cheap and use the parts for a T-II conversion on your Shelby Z.
Tony
That was my second thought. I had wanted to put it on the road. but oh well.
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  #20  
Old 01-19-2003, 03:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by mpbiv
Well TI's up to 87 came with the Garrett turbo, and with the mitsu 88+. The mitsu configuration wise "looks" like the garrett turbo they put on the TII's. The mitsu turbo is a clear give away that you have a TI.
Which would be the better turbo the mitsu or the Garrett?
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  #21  
Old 01-19-2003, 04:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mopard


Which would be the better turbo the mitsu or the Garrett?
Really depends on your goals. Garrett is a much better overall turbo, good for performance, an capable of producing 20+ psi. But if you want something low lag the small mitsu is good, however due to size won't produce much more than 18psi and will create more heat at higher boost levels.
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Old 01-19-2003, 10:25 PM
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Default Re: BE CAREFUL

Quote:
Originally posted by Ram-N-Time
Make sure that lean is paid off before you buy that Daytona. If you purchase that vehicle and transfer the title into your name, you will be responsible for that lean of $5,000 and the purchase price. (Expensive Daytona)
That's a great idea. I did'nt think of that.
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  #23  
Old 01-19-2003, 10:31 PM
Mopard Mopard is offline
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Default Re: Re: BE CAREFUL

Quote:
Originally posted by tonyz2897


Good point. I was suggesting buying the car for parts, and leaving the previous owner to deal with the lien. The downside to this of course would be not ever being able to drive the car because you have no title, but if you used it as a parts/donor car, I can't see where that would matter.
Tony
That is another good idea but I already have a parts car. I was wondering if I could purchase the car and strip it for parts and never have it transfered in my name. Then the 5 grand would be his problem and not mine.

If I do that then I will most likely sell the parts car I have now. Of course I know that I will miss it when it is gone. I just hate to get ride of Mopars. It just is'nt right
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  #24  
Old 01-19-2003, 10:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by mpbiv

Really depends on your goals. Garrett is a much better overall turbo, good for performance, an capable of producing 20+ psi. But if you want something low lag the small mitsu is good, however due to size won't produce much more than 18psi and will create more heat at higher boost levels.
Well The Garrett turbo I have now is pushing between 16 to around 17 to 17 1/2 psi.

Low lag is good but high boost levels is better. I just need to install my adjustable FPR to turn up the fuel to meet the higher boost levels, after I install the Zener diod to fool the computer.
Just waiting untill it gets warmer out. Tools get pretty darn cold in your hands when it is between 22 and 33 degrees out.
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