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#31
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kevin,
Any way you could post a pic of the swap when you're done? I'm interested in this swap, and would really like to see how it looks after installation. |
#32
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Dan, No problem on the pics. I already have most of it done. I just have to get the field wire connector for tne new alt, no decent way I can see to fabricate something there. Also need a pulley and this will be done.
eholster- sorry for not getting it, just took me a while to listen! any stuff I have added uses relays, have seperate ones for efi computer, fuel pump, and electric fan. I will definately clean that bulkhead connector. when all is done, I will list all parts and mods needed. I will also try to put some pics in Surprised how easily new alt physically fits, just had to cut down two factory spacers and add a nut and bolt to bottom where belt adjust arm attaches. Probably did less work here than if I bought that powerhouse alt! Kevin |
#33
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You should be able to get the pulley from a local salvage yard. If you don't have anything local, try an auto parts store. They often have a box of pullies behind the counter. They may trade you straight up, for the pulley tha cam on the alt. The only other option would be to try and find an auto electric shop near you, they should have the correct pullies as well.
As far as not being able to get, you appear to have caught on. It was another person that doesn't appear to have caught on. Another thing that you can do, to help relieve the strain on the internal wiring and the headlight switch, is to use relays in that setup as well. A good diagram is at http://lighting.mbz.org/tech/how_to/relays/ |
#34
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Quote:
Just curious ... what is the original equipment application for the alternator? Did you get it from NAPA, too? New, or rebuilt? Price? Please forgive me if this info. has already been posted. thanks, Dan |
#35
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got the alt off ebay for 75 bucks, brand new. they are new take off's from '02 dodge 1 ton vans. they had 4 of them....
search for a seller named truck&rvsupply, or search for "130 amp mopar alt" You can email them at: trucknrv@truckandrv.com |
#36
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Thanks for the hot tip on the alternators.
I couldn't resist such a killer deal - and now there's only 2 of them left on E-bay I can't wait to hear how your swap goes. Anybody got any ouput numbers on this unit? I'd be interested in knowing output at idle... |
#37
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update:
got a pulley today from the local auto electric shop. The owner swore up and down that a gm or mopar pulley would not work. I persisted and made him show me a few. 1st gm one fit right on! One concern: niether the original pulley or shaft on alt has any keyways. I hope just tightening the nut on the pulley is enough to keep pulley from spinning? No luck at the first junkyard for the field connector male plug. Dan, you should try to find this asap, as this seems to be the toughest to locate. 1st yard kind of small, will try a couple of others tomorrow, if no luck, will go down to the dodge dealer and bend over. eholster: you have any ideas on how to fab something for that field connector? sounds like you knew exactly what I was talking about- two female spades do not work, too big. hope to be up and running by tomorrow afternoon, I will keep you posted |
#38
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I have to go in to parts stores and tell them the part is for a 23 T you ought to here some of the counter guys replys. Thats why I trade with one independent parts store owned by a old racer his motto is "if I aint got it, I can get it and if I cant get it you dont need it" Only questions he ask is that cash or charge.
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#39
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Kevin
Yeah, I was kind of wondering what your plans were for the field connector. I was just figuring on visiting the dealer. If I can score just a short pigtail assembly (and not a larger harness), I don't think it'll cost much. Regarding your new pulley: Do you know the application? Thanks for the heads up Dan |
#40
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Quote:
Quote:
As the seller was unable to provide me with any straight on pics of that connector, I'm not familiar with its setup and the size of the two connectors inside. I'm thinking that Radio Shack may have some connectors that you can get to grab onto the pins/blades. Just crossed my mind... The auto electric shop, that you went to, may have it as well. |
#41
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Dan,
I am going to probably just order it from the dealer, but being impatient, I managed to fab something up, took two male spade connectors, and used a pair of dykes to elongate and slightly crimp the ends that you are supposed to put the wire into. got them to the point that they slide over the two male metal prongs on the alt. then took two female spades and slid them onto the male ones that I altered. soldered and used heat shrink and it's a done deal, for now..... this is just temp till I get the right one, but I want to get it going this weekend. I asked the guy at the rebuilders what the application was, and all he said is "gm" I have a friend (gm guy) who dug up another alt pulley for me. I will see him tomorrow, and if it's the same, I would be happy to send it to you. I will let you know Just have to go out in the morning and get a belt (you will probably have to do this too) belt needs to be @1.5" shorter than stock one. as soon as I get it all in, I will get back with alterations/parts list. Since I cannot seem to get a pic to load under my name, I am attaching a pic of the car in case you are interested |
#42
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here is another
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#43
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the auto electric shop did not have them, and you are right on about that connector being new.
I looked at a couple of cars at junkyard that were at least late 90's, same alt (physical appearance), but the field terminals on alt looked like threaded studs, and field wires attached with ring terminals and nuts. I should have it going tomorrow, and then to the local "good" parts store to try to order the connector. by "good", I mean the one who does not have 78 different neon licence plate frames! |
#44
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Kevin,
That is one sweet ride. Thanks for the pulley offer; I'll take you up on it, if it works out. What gauge wire are you running for the fields and main feed from alternator? Thanks for the help, Dan |
#45
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Dan, thanks. I used a 10g direct from alt to starter relay. I used 14g for the extra field wire. (probably overkill, original field wire looks like a 16 or 18-thin) I left the original field wire intact and spliced it into the original ignition wire on the regulator.
heading out in a few minutes to get a belt and hopefully. I also have to get a new nut to hold the pulley. the original nut has a washer built into it and you cannot catch the threads with the gm pulley, had to turn it over (washer facing out) to get it to thread. no way to tighten unless I grind off the intregrated washer. I feel it would be easier to just get a new nut at local store. I will let you know. Kevin |
#46
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Success!!!!!!
It's a done deal. got it up and running and that new alt kicks ass!
Before, at idle was putting out 12.2 v with nothing on except fuel pump. Now, at idle, with electric fan, fuel pump, headlights, heater on high, wipers on high, 4 ways, and foot on brake, it's over 14V!!!!! I had a big breakup last weekend at the track, that's gone. also, at idle the motor stumble, that's gone too. I took many pics of the swap and made a parts list with pitfalls that I ran into and prices/sources/part numbers. amp guage looks pretty useless now, but who cares- |
#47
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another
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#48
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more
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#49
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another
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#50
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more
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#51
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having trouble with pics and list. I can email them to anyone who is interested.
managed to do this swap for less than $150.00 and three hours work time. Now, this electrical system can take anything I can throw at it. I could not have done it without all of your guys' input, thanks. Kevin |
#52
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here is more
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#53
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last one, I think
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#54
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It looks pretty good. Glad to hear that it worked for you.
Like you said, that alt is going to be able to keep up with almost anything that you throw at it. As long as you wire extras in correctly, the wiring will hold up as well. No more dimming headlights for you. |
#55
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Re: Success!!!!!!
Quote:
Sounds like you've nailed the swap. Nice work. Would you mind e-mailing me the information you mention above? I'm at wdhastings@hotmail.com On the elusive field connection plug: I went today (Saturday) to the local Dodge dealer parts dept. with the intention of laying my mitts on the correct plug/pigtail assembly for the field wire connection. The counter guy informed me that the parts manuals were under lock and key for the weekend. Huh? I didn't ask further. He showed me a booklet containing replacement pigtail repair kits that are available, containing a new receptacle plug as well as wire and contact pins. The only problem was they're just listed by a part #, with no application info., and there were about 50-60 to choose from. So, I'll be visiting them again when I actually get my alternator, so I can show them exactly what I need. After looking at some of these pigtails (they appear to be large), I'm a little concerned about having enough clearance between the engine and rear face of alternator. Anyway, I'll figure it all out in a few days, and post the part # here for everyone. Wish me luck. |
#56
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yeah, I was just out tooling around in the dark and those headlights are nice and bright. They might even be original, as they look like they have never been out. And they do not dim when I step on the brake anymore.
Huge performance difference for me, probably because I am running fuel injection. elec pump, computer. I have heard my old holley tbi system is real sensitive to voltage/grounds, etc.... and certianly seems the case here. Dan, I emailed you that parts list and all of my pics are here on the site. I also got that extra pulley. If you give me your address, I will mail it to you with an extra nut I got for mine. On that connector, you may be right, there is not a lot of room. I may be forced to leave my "engineered" solution. Anyone out there who is sick of their lackluster charging system should give this swap serious consideration. I have crawled in, out, under and over my car for years now and this is one of the easiest upgrades I have made, among the cheapest too. I would consider it a must for anyone who is going any type of efi with computer controls. Plus- there are probably 2 more left on ebay! |
#57
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I'm seriously thinking about doing the same swap. Tired of the dimming lights. My only concern is about that 130 amps. Thats some major amperage. You guys are sure, that by adding that 10 guage wire, is all that is needed for the original system to be able to handle that much amperage? Please let me know as soon as you can.
Thanks |
#58
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I took eholster's word for it on that extra wire, plus seemed to make sense to me.
After doing the swap, amp guage reads discharge even though volt meter says 14.2. leads me to believe that less current is getting to the guage-- I'm sold. Before, when guage would read discharge (less than 0) car ran crappy, and now runs perfect. I have a parts list and other info if you want me to email it to you. Good luck Kevin |
#59
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DKN please read
Quote:
DKN - sorry for the bad information. That 10g wire isn't going to hand a full charge from that ALT. please swap it with a 4g wire, as soon as you can. Again I am sorry about the bad info of the 10g wire. |
#60
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Ed,
Thanks for the valuable heads, up. I'm glad to learn this now, before I start stringin' wires. By the way, what resources do you use to get this information? Dan |
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