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  #31  
Old 08-30-2002, 12:05 AM
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Cuda,
Thank you so much for this tuning information. I have an EB carb that I will retune. Your information is really going to help me tune my 750 for a 440 with nitrous, unless I go blown.
66Plymouth
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  #32  
Old 08-30-2002, 12:54 AM
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Good glad you found it of some value, but...an Eddy Carb in Georgia!!!! the Home of Barry Grant Fuel Systems!!!!...you should be ashamed of yourself....LOL

Just be sure your fuel supply lines and pump (s) are big enough to handle all that HP.

Rule of thumb for fuel delivery.....

12 sec car.... fill a 1-gal jug in 35 sec.

11 sec.....30 sec.

10 sec.....25 sec

9 sec......20 sec...and so on....

Also be sure your fuel filter is between the tank and the pump and has the capacity to flow at least 110% of pump volume. The Fram HPG 1 filter that I see everyone using only flows at 70 GPH so don't even waste your time or money.

When your ready to plumb it drop me an email and I'll calculate your requirements.

cuda66273@hotmail.com
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  #33  
Old 09-01-2002, 11:00 AM
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I shoulda read this a while back , but,


I've been reading plugs for 30 years, back when I raced two stroke motocrossers.

You can learn a lot about tune when you read a plug, but less now than in the old days, especially if you have a 50,000 volt coil and MSD ignition.

When your plug is at operating temp, it's designed to burn off all the excess carbon, and look clean. It is supposed to do this even if your state of tune is poor.

Now you add in over twice the specified amount of spark juice, and anything in the neighborhood of the plug tip is going to burn, rich or not.

My point? You have to be running REALLY rich for it to show.
You'll see a much wider range of A/F ratios with a nice tan plug these days than you did 30 years ago.

The corollary is that lean shows up faster.

Having said that, you'll still be closer to a good A/F ratio with cuda's post than just knocking around. Also, I'm at sea level, and things tend to run a bit lean..
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  #34  
Old 09-03-2002, 08:10 AM
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Yes, these high voltag ignition systems have a tendancyu to mask over alot of information on the plug.

In order to read a plug for rich/lean condition you really need to look way down inside the plug at the bottom of the porcelin, there should be a small coloring right at the base about a .030-.050 ring. This really nessesitates(sp) the use of a plug reading instrument.

There's a ton of info available from the plugs and I'll get into more of it when I get the article ready to publish.
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  #35  
Old 09-08-2002, 11:34 AM
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I've waited a couple weeks to say anything cause I've been on vacation, but I must extend a BIG thanks to cuda for this thread!!!!! I had a 68 Dodge Power Wagon, 383 4 speed, motor mildly built with a 750 Holley on it. Someone had given me an Edelbrock 650 carb (I know it was too small) which I knew absolutely nothing about. It just sat in its box on the floor of the truck, because I knew it was too small. Well, truck was for sale, and I made plans to sell it to a gentleman two weeks ago. Day before I was to sell it the rear float needle on the Holley stuck wide open while I was driving down the freeway. Frustrated as all hell, I proceeded to swap carbs on the side of the freeway (wasnt the first time that Holley had done that!!). I had just enough tools for the swap, air cleaner didnt clear linkage, but truck got me home. I then ran straight in here, got on this thread, printed it out, went outside and tuned the beast. Test drove once around the block, seemed OK, went in the house and went to sleep. Next morning jumped straight in truck, drive it an hour, and sold it. It never ran as good as it did then!!!! God I regret selling that truck!!! Once again, thanks!!!

Brad

Brad
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  #36  
Old 09-09-2002, 12:38 AM
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That's cool!
Sorry to hear you sold a Dodge, but I hope you have at least one more kicking around to play with.

...another happy customer.....makes my day!

Hey Roger...I hope you read this, I'd do more on the Eddy carbs if I had some factory support..hint hint....
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  #37  
Old 09-10-2002, 10:37 PM
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Yah, I've got my 96 Dakota and my "new" 66 383 Coronet. Dakota has some mods, has gone 13.86 at 101 on the 318 FI motor, Coronet is so stock I think the original owner is rolling in her grave knowing what my plans are!!!! Here they are:
http://hometown.aol.com/n2mopars/page2index.html
http://hometown.aol.com/n2mopars/page6index.html

Brad
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  #38  
Old 09-11-2002, 02:15 AM
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Nice!!!!
I bet you bought it so you could be Coronet66383...everyone wants to be like me...except younger...much younger...LOL
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  #39  
Old 09-11-2002, 02:17 AM
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Ha ha! Maybe coronet66498 He he! I will be picking your brain soon!!! So be ready!!!

Brad
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  #40  
Old 10-03-2002, 05:18 PM
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Unhappy The mystic are of plug reading........

I was never very good at accept the obvious, black, white, or brown plug reading.

I could get it where it always ran good, but not where it ran good an got its best mileage.
I have a '85 Ramcharger w/360, EdelB 1406 carb, and performer intake. The engine is pretty much stock otherwise.
I have heard of guys with this same combo, in the same truck getting 15-16 MPG when the carb was tuned. I would do a back flip if I got that mileage.

I guess I will invest in a O2 sensor and gauge to monitor what the carb is doing.
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  #41  
Old 10-13-2002, 12:50 PM
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Hey Cuda.....I was trying to fine tune the Barracuda following this thread. Run down real quick. 66 273, Weiand dual plane, with an Eddy 600ish? maybe 650. elec choke carb. mild cam. Told by previous owner. cant hear it. Stock exhaust manifolds. Has electronic igntion. (Mopar orange ECU), new plugs wires. Ok it hs a rough idle. always. Unplug the pcv races up but also smooths out too. Adjust the idle screws, pass side little/ to no effect. (mainly no effect), driver side, when I hit about 1/2 turn before bottoming it stalls, other than that not much change in idle. sprayed around the carb base, intake, hoses no vacuum leaks. Compression test is about 150ish across the board. maybe 5% variance. Any ideas? I know you do, just I wanna know what they are also. Starts right up, runs decent, but breaks up on the high RPMs. It feels really lazy also. It wont turn the 205-70-14's over either. At one time it did and even ocasionally chripped 2nd. I raised the idle today (which seems hi to me no tach) runs smoother. Guessing 900-1000 rpm. I started tuning it in FL and now we are in AZ abot 1100 feet higher. Will this cause a significant change? I am going to get all new plugs and let it run to see what it does, or would that part be a waste of time/money right now. Hope i gave enough of the right info
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  #42  
Old 10-14-2002, 01:47 AM
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Hey RB:

Crank the at idle advance up about 5 degrees or untill you get max RPM out of it.

Now set the idle down untill it tries to stall, with your vacuum gauge connected adjust the idle mixture screws to get the best vacuum reset your idle speed and check that the max advance doesn't exceed about 34.

Without knowing the duration of the cam at 50 it's difficult to know where we should start on timing.

It sounds to me like that stock replacement carb just can't read the signal from the manifold at idle.

A 625 Road Demon would probably solve all your problems
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  #43  
Old 10-14-2002, 07:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by cuda66273
It sounds to me like that stock replacement carb just can't read the signal from the manifold at idle.

A 625 Road Demon would probably solve all your problems
What would one run??
6282010V Road Demon Jr 625 One like this??
Right now it has the 1406 Eddy.
That does sound right about not being able to read the signal. Although it is almost stock. The idle isnt consistent at all. Started it for work, idle knda smooth. Got to work it was idling like it was mising in 2 cylinders. Chugging really bad. Day before it chugged when cold and smoothed out as it got hot. It had the rough idle read this post tried and and no work. I will dig for my timing light, and report back what i find. I dont have a vacc gauge as of now...er would a boost gauge work?? It read 30 in/ and 30 lbs. (previous Turbo Omni project) or would it need to be a bigger face. Its a 2 1/16 Autometer. I'll give it a shot within the next few days. GOing to recheck the ignition. One other thing is I have been told, not sure how true , but a points ignition coil wont work with electronic ignition? I am using the ballast resistor. I know it hooked up right. Thanks again.

Bob
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  #44  
Old 10-14-2002, 09:47 AM
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See the post on coils...I'm working on it now ..gimme 10 minutes
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  #45  
Old 10-14-2002, 06:52 PM
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OK before I left work, I played with the car. Allows the rush of people leaving to subside some. So I cranked up the timing redid the idle, turned it way down till it almost stalls, and got the idle mixture screws working (Or now they acutaully make improvements) Let it idled for about 10 min while waiting for my friend, Mean fixed a bad ground for the rear lights. . Now it has an ocassional miss, like a puft every now and then out of the exhaust, and now it rattles. Next tank I will try 91. (Got 87 in it now ) Didnt even get to check the timing yet. Guess I'll wait till tomorrow. So far so good. Just gotta look for the post on coils now.

Bob
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  #46  
Old 10-14-2002, 09:26 PM
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look at "Mission Ignition"

Humm sporatic sputter ....I'd be looking at the wires......
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  #47  
Old 10-15-2002, 02:52 AM
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I could reply with "......but they are new" which they are, but I have learned, just because its new doesn't mean it works as it should.


OK
With the vacuum gauge.
0 at WOT, in high gear. At idle about 13. The highest I can pull by downshifting in to 2nd is 20. I am using a boost gauge that reads 30-30. vac boost. Vac side is kinda small, it doesn't show variations. So it seems like a realativley smooth vac at idle. When starting out in first at WOT it still has about ~ 3in of vac.
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  #48  
Old 10-22-2002, 12:33 AM
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Cuda66, I have the 1406 carb on a 360 AMC engine in a Jeep pickup. I've addapted the carb to the 4bbl AMC manifold using one of those tappered down blocks of aluminum that they say in the instructions that came with the carb not to use but I did anyway. I've been dealing with the rich smelling exhaust and wondered if this was the reason for the rich running of the carb. What I'm getting at is, can I use the formula you've posted to tune it properly? Would you recommend the Performer manifold? as I'm sure it is a perfect match for the carb. It seems that I'm not getting enough air down the carb using the AMC manifold being that its not a spread bore. I wanted, after reading the tuning post, to try and tune the carb but wanted to be sure It would help.
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  #49  
Old 10-22-2002, 01:05 AM
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You can try but that incorrect manifold carb combo is gonna make your life difficult.

Get a Performer, 575 Road Demon, curve the distributor and it'll run like a raped ape!

We have all available and can set up a rebuilt distributor for you and make your job real easy....email me direct if your interested.
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  #50  
Old 10-28-2002, 08:43 PM
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OK this one has me stupmed. I put a Carter on my van. 318. It runs much better, except now when I give it gas it stubles. Not off idle. The acclerator pump squirts engines revs with no load. Put it in gear and apply gas it starts to rev up but then it will die off. If I let up on the gas it will stall. Trying to drive it, it takes off for about 1 sec. then it does the same thing. It will stumble/bog down, cant tell if loading up or running out of gas. When I load the engine against the brakes, there is a small pop and flash in the carb then the stumle occurs. The flash looks like someone trying to light a lighter. I followed the tuning procedures, and it runs much better. Another thing is in neutral I cant completely floor it. If so and the secondaries open it bogs down and if i keep it floored, hello fireball!!: So far it runs the best out of the Thermoquad and stock 2 bbl that I replaced. Any ideas? I need to get this thing past emissions, or actually able to accelerate under a load. Checked for and didnt find any vac leaks either.
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  #51  
Old 10-28-2002, 09:17 PM
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What does the fuel filter look like?..besides round and shiney
Have you got a kink in a hose?
Is the air cleaner pushing down on the inlet hose and pinching it off?
You have a lean condition, either it's not getting any fuel or you have a vacuum leak.
Check your power brake booster hose.
Make sure the front large vacuum port plugged is tight.

It doesn't sound like you have a squirter problem.
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  #52  
Old 10-28-2002, 10:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by cuda66273
What does the fuel filter look like?..besides round and shiney
Have you got a kink in a hose?
Is the air cleaner pushing down on the inlet hose and pinching it off?
You have a lean condition, either it's not getting any fuel or you have a vacuum leak.
Check your power brake booster hose.
Make sure the front large vacuum port plugged is tight.

It doesn't sound like you have a squirter problem.
Replaced filter when he swapped the intake.
No noticible kink, might have one further down than in the doghouse area.
No air cleaner on it due to tunning issues.

never checked the power brake booster hose or the fuel pressure, as in we've never hooked up a gauge to see what it's doing.
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  #53  
Old 10-28-2002, 11:02 PM
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Juast brain storming here. It seems like it is going lean when the carb switches over to the primary circuit. If I pump the gas it will stay running. Just pondering while at work.
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  #54  
Old 10-29-2002, 04:32 AM
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If it were my project and I had checked and double checked all posibilities I would, at this point be pulling the carb and cleaning out the guts. Something is blocked somewhere if it's not external it's gotta be internal.
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  #55  
Old 10-29-2002, 07:32 AM
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Well I pulled the top of the carb and unfortunately nothing sems out of place. I redid the running test. idles good, revs fine without a load. When I put a load against it, it bogs pops and stalls, I found a Eddy rebuild kit and I will go through the carb later.
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  #56  
Old 10-29-2002, 09:16 AM
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rb: If you are running a vacuum advance, try your no load test with it disconnected to see what happens. Might have a rotor phasing problem that shows up when the vacuum advance releases.
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  #57  
Old 10-29-2002, 09:52 AM
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What model of carter did you put on your truck? A while back there was a machining problem when the 9000 series 500 cfm carbs were made. One passage under the primary boosters on both sides didn't get drilled deep enough and it caused the problem you are describing. Sorry I can't remember all of the details but it's been a while since i fixed one of these.
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  #58  
Old 10-29-2002, 11:13 AM
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Have you checked the fuel pump on this thing?

Is the engine completely warmed up...

Are we talking about a 2 barrel here..????
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  #59  
Old 10-29-2002, 08:16 PM
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Its a 4bbl CArter performer series AFB. The ones the Eddies look like. When I go home on break I'll check the carb numbers. I even rigged up a temp gauge to make sure it was warmed up also. The vac advance is hooked up. I'll clean out the carb re-assemble it and dis-connect the vac advance also. The van was a 2bbl when I first got it. this is my 2nd 4bbl on it. First was a Thermo put poured black smoke out at idle and had a problem of the secondary tension spring unwinding and the air door falling open while driving. The current carb is from the salavge yard, and came off a 318.
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  #60  
Old 10-30-2002, 08:33 AM
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Sorry but it's a junk yard carb and you can't expect much more...it needs to be completely gone through and rebuilt, you could have one or more of a dozen problems inside that carb, there's no way diagnose your problems.

I'm going to have the new 600 Eddy that I just trickd out for my Pick-up for sale in about a month and another 600 all stock that I just rebuilt...at the track (Jeeze) for sale soon.

As I get these carbs I'll post here to give you guys first shot, thats all I can suggest, or send it to me and I'll see if it's worth rebuilding.
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