Moparchat - Home of MOPAR enthusiasts worldwide!



Go Back   Moparchat - Home of MOPAR enthusiasts worldwide! > Technical Forums > Performance Talk

Click here to search for Mopar cars and parts for sale.


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 06-08-2008, 05:33 PM
nasmeyer nasmeyer is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Carleton Michigan
Posts: 38
Default Trouble shooting my ignition problem again!

I am once agin trying to troubleshoot a problem with the ignition on my 1969 383 Roadrunner, it has been converted to Mopar electronic ignition, only driven a few hundred miles per year, and has me frustrated. Any help or ideas would be much appreciated.

A few years ago I had problems getting it fired in the spring and swapped out my orange ignition box, it seemed to solve the problem and run fine for the summer. Last year I again had problems getting good spark and changed a relativly new Accel 8140-M and it seemd to run fine the rest of the summer. This year I again had ignition problems and bought a new 8140-M, it ran for a few days and I am without a spark again!

A new Accel coil has a primary reading of 1.2 or 1.4 ohms I think, after I apparently damage my coils they end up with a reststance of around 6.5 to 6.7!

I did a ballast resistor test which showed voltage of 6.2 volts so I feel the reststor is fine.
I have a voltage reading of 12.6 at the battery.
I have a voltage reading of 11.9 at the positive side of the coil with the ignition on.
I have a voltage reading of 11.9 at both ends of the ballast resistor with the ignition on.
I get a secondary coil reading of 10,800 and a primary reading of 6.5 which I am sure is my problem, but why am I using up coils?

Another question, with the coil removed from the car I get a voltage reading of 11.9 at the lead to the negative side of the coil as well, should I be showing voltage here?

Also with the coil removed and the ignition off I get a very small reading of less than a half volt at each of the positive and negative leads to the coil, could this be a problem?

Thanks in advance for any help.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 06-08-2008, 07:50 PM
thatwasfunny thatwasfunny is offline
Banned
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: your head
Age: 75
Posts: 349
Default

Throw that orange box in the trash!
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 06-08-2008, 08:31 PM
RacerHog RacerHog is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Monrovia.Calif.
Age: 60
Posts: 719
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nasmeyer View Post
I am once agin trying to troubleshoot a problem with the ignition on my 1969 383 Roadrunner, it has been converted to Mopar electronic ignition, only driven a few hundred miles per year, and has me frustrated. Any help or ideas would be much appreciated.

A few years ago I had problems getting it fired in the spring and swapped out my orange ignition box, it seemed to solve the problem and run fine for the summer. Last year I again had problems getting good spark and changed a relativly new Accel 8140-M and it seemd to run fine the rest of the summer. This year I again had ignition problems and bought a new 8140-M, it ran for a few days and I am without a spark again!

A new Accel coil has a primary reading of 1.2 or 1.4 ohms I think, after I apparently damage my coils they end up with a reststance of around 6.5 to 6.7!

I did a ballast resistor test which showed voltage of 6.2 volts so I feel the reststor is fine.
I have a voltage reading of 12.6 at the battery.
I have a voltage reading of 11.9 at the positive side of the coil with the ignition on.
I have a voltage reading of 11.9 at both ends of the ballast resistor with the ignition on.
I get a secondary coil reading of 10,800 and a primary reading of 6.5 which I am sure is my problem, but why am I using up coils?

Another question, with the coil removed from the car I get a voltage reading of 11.9 at the lead to the negative side of the coil as well, should I be showing voltage here?

Also with the coil removed and the ignition off I get a very small reading of less than a half volt at each of the positive and negative leads to the coil, could this be a problem?

Thanks in advance for any help.
Should not have any voltage with the key off....
Make sure the box is grounded very good
Add and extra ground wire from the engine to the firewall
Pull the Dist. Check to see if the Air gap it still right in the dist. And feel to see if it still has a strong magnetic pull.
Oh and I like the Orange Box.....Been running one for 8 years....
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 06-08-2008, 09:43 PM
nasmeyer nasmeyer is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Carleton Michigan
Posts: 38
Default

Thanks for the ideas RacerHog, I will make sure my ground is good, and add an extra to the firewall/engine. Not very knowlegable with distributors though, explain the "air gap" to me.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 06-08-2008, 10:06 PM
RacerHog RacerHog is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Monrovia.Calif.
Age: 60
Posts: 719
Default

It is the air gap between the stator and the relucktor......
About the thickness of a playing card folded in half.

The unit has magnut pull between them.....If you can turn it and feel the magnetic drag, It's good... If you can't then it is weak...If it shorts...You will have lot's of fun chaseing it....Just look to see and make sure the two peices dont touch...
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 06-09-2008, 07:37 PM
madmax4073's Avatar
madmax4073 madmax4073 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: welland,ontario
Age: 46
Posts: 319
Default

Here is a copy of the instructions for the electronic ignition conversion kit. It shows you how to set the reluctor gap. You do not have to pull the distributor to do this. I'd also start from scratch and double check every connection. It sounds as though something is wired incorrectly.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 06-11-2008, 06:37 AM
nasmeyer nasmeyer is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Carleton Michigan
Posts: 38
Default

Thanks for all the help, I cleaned all of my ground contacts and I got a good spark, I still don't know why the negative lead on the coil has positive voltage (is it supposed to?) but it's running! I think I had too much paint, and too little bare metal under the electronic ignition box on the firewall.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 06-14-2008, 05:02 AM
cudabob496 cudabob496 is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Richland, WA
Age: 71
Posts: 2,018
Default

http://www.moparaction.com/tech/archive/roadside.html
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Trouble shooting fuel guage Jim13 Restoring your MoPar (Tricks & techniques) 4 06-09-2008 08:50 PM
Trouble Shooting Mopar Electronic Ignition Systems BOB P Vintage MOPAR chat 0 08-22-2007 08:52 AM
Looking for some help in trouble shooting carolina440racer Performance Talk 8 06-11-2003 05:44 PM
Nitrous trouble shooting Way2QWK Performance Talk 13 09-20-2001 09:43 PM
trouble shooting web site superswamper Ram Truck Chat 2 05-29-2001 12:24 PM




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:19 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
. . . . .