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#1
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Trouble shooting my ignition problem again!
I am once agin trying to troubleshoot a problem with the ignition on my 1969 383 Roadrunner, it has been converted to Mopar electronic ignition, only driven a few hundred miles per year, and has me frustrated. Any help or ideas would be much appreciated.
A few years ago I had problems getting it fired in the spring and swapped out my orange ignition box, it seemed to solve the problem and run fine for the summer. Last year I again had problems getting good spark and changed a relativly new Accel 8140-M and it seemd to run fine the rest of the summer. This year I again had ignition problems and bought a new 8140-M, it ran for a few days and I am without a spark again! A new Accel coil has a primary reading of 1.2 or 1.4 ohms I think, after I apparently damage my coils they end up with a reststance of around 6.5 to 6.7! I did a ballast resistor test which showed voltage of 6.2 volts so I feel the reststor is fine. I have a voltage reading of 12.6 at the battery. I have a voltage reading of 11.9 at the positive side of the coil with the ignition on. I have a voltage reading of 11.9 at both ends of the ballast resistor with the ignition on. I get a secondary coil reading of 10,800 and a primary reading of 6.5 which I am sure is my problem, but why am I using up coils? Another question, with the coil removed from the car I get a voltage reading of 11.9 at the lead to the negative side of the coil as well, should I be showing voltage here? Also with the coil removed and the ignition off I get a very small reading of less than a half volt at each of the positive and negative leads to the coil, could this be a problem? Thanks in advance for any help. |
#2
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Throw that orange box in the trash!
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#3
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Quote:
Make sure the box is grounded very good Add and extra ground wire from the engine to the firewall Pull the Dist. Check to see if the Air gap it still right in the dist. And feel to see if it still has a strong magnetic pull. Oh and I like the Orange Box.....Been running one for 8 years.... |
#4
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Thanks for the ideas RacerHog, I will make sure my ground is good, and add an extra to the firewall/engine. Not very knowlegable with distributors though, explain the "air gap" to me.
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#5
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It is the air gap between the stator and the relucktor......
About the thickness of a playing card folded in half. The unit has magnut pull between them.....If you can turn it and feel the magnetic drag, It's good... If you can't then it is weak...If it shorts...You will have lot's of fun chaseing it....Just look to see and make sure the two peices dont touch... |
#6
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Here is a copy of the instructions for the electronic ignition conversion kit. It shows you how to set the reluctor gap. You do not have to pull the distributor to do this. I'd also start from scratch and double check every connection. It sounds as though something is wired incorrectly.
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#7
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Thanks for all the help, I cleaned all of my ground contacts and I got a good spark, I still don't know why the negative lead on the coil has positive voltage (is it supposed to?) but it's running! I think I had too much paint, and too little bare metal under the electronic ignition box on the firewall.
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#8
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