Mopar 9 1/4 rear end?

[ramcharger_440]

I am thinking of using the 9 1/4" rearend in two A body cars.

#1 1974 Dart Sport with 450 HP 408, strip only car

#2 1970 Dart with mildly built 340 (maybe 325-350 HP), street car

Is this a good idea? I have searched quite a bit for a Dana 60 or 8 3/4" but can't find one. The 9 1/4" looks pretty sturdy but not sure if it can handle the power or be adapted. I have found three and they are inexpensive ($50 each).

Please help if you can. Many thanks!

[dartswinger74]

They are pretty strong but to wide for most cars. Im pretty sure I read about a conversion that changes the ends of the axle tubes and puts 8 3/4 acles in it. Maybe check with moser

[440Ramcharger]

The axle is wide, the spring perches also.
I have a NIB Chrysler sure grip for a 9.25" if you are looking for one.

[ramcharger_440]

I will be narrowing the rear end for the Dart sport anyway. So the width and the relocation of the spring perches doesn't bother me. I am mainly worried about the strength and weight. This thing looks heavy.

Another concern is whether or not I am overlooking something ovvious and if the 9 1/4" will handle future upgrades in power.

I appreciate everyone's help.

[dwc43]

They are a little heavy, but well worth it. I use them in my 4x4 and it will take the punishment. The housing can be easly narrowed and the axles resplined. THere are all sorts of gears, suregrips, lockers, and spools available for them too. It would be a great choice if you can not find a 3/4 near by to use.

[dave571]

I will say I think the 9 1/4 is plenty strong.

I will add though, if your narrowing it anyway, why not go with a dana 60?(I don't think the 9 1/4 is any lighter. My back scale doesn't think so anyway)

They are a dime a dozen in truck and van applications. More often then not you already get a 410 too.

They even came in semi float versions in a lot of the newer trucks and stuff. You must be tripping on them at the junkyard.

Not critizising, just curious.

[ramcharger_440]

A Dana 60 would be great. But I have spent over 3 months looking for either a 60 or an 8 3/4" in NE Oklahoma, also NW Arkansas, SW Missouri and SE Kansas. I have found NONE that were reasonable in price!

The rear ends are currently holding up two projects. And, unfortunately, I am running out of patience. I have also considered a Ford 9".

[dwc43]

I can get you a NEW! full floating nine inch specificatly just for a race car if you need one of those.

[dave571]

Originally posted by ramcharger_440
A Dana 60 would be great. But I have spent over 3 months looking for either a 60 or an 8 3/4" in NE Oklahoma, also NW Arkansas, SW Missouri and SE Kansas. I have found NONE that were reasonable in price!

The rear ends are currently holding up two projects. And, unfortunately, I am running out of patience. I have also considered a Ford 9".

But if you're narrowing it anyway, you don't need one for your car.

Those diffs are extremely common in ford 3/4 tons, pickup vans. Used from the 70's right up until present day.

You could probably buy an entire 1980 3/4 ton ford pu with a 410 dana 60 semi float for about 200 bucks.

Just a thought.

[dave571]

Originally posted by dwc43
I can get you a NEW! full floating nine inch specificatly just for a race car if you need one of those.

A full float car application? Complete with 8 lugs/16.5 inch wheels ot what?

You mean semi float don't you?

[dwc43]

Nope. Full float with 5 lugs set up for disc brake use too.

[ramcharger_440]

DWC43, OK I will bite. Although it is probably out of my price range, what is the cost?

By the way, what is a decent going price to have a rear narrowed. The guy in Tulsa many people around here have recommended gave me a price of $200. Is that reasonable?

Thanks again, you guys are a GREAT help to someone new to this.

[dwc43]

Why pay 200 when you can do it all yourself except for shortning and resplining the axles. All you need is a chop saw. New for 99.oo at Lowes and a mig welder or borrow a friends. That's all there is to it really. Just make sure it's all square. Then send he axles off to be reworked. I'll get you a price on that rear end as soon as I get home. I'll price it complete ecept for the center since I'm not sre what you would want in there. It's kinda pricy though, but it's a new piece and ready for you. you can get them in any tube lenght too.

[dave571]

Originally posted by dwc43
Nope. Full float with 5 lugs set up for disc brake use too.

Not to harp on this, but if the wheel studs are on the axle, then this is a semi float axle. (has a flange, just like any other 9 ")

A full float axle is the type seen in one ton trucks/ duallys, ect. The axle itself takes none of the vehicle weight. The studs that hold up the vehicle are in a hub that rides on brgs, on a stub support shaft. The shaft/ housing takes the weight.

On a full float axle, the axle can even be removed from the vehicle without jacking it up, or taking the wheels off.

I've never seen such a thing on a car. Even the old style 8 3/4 with the tapered axles, is still a semifloat axle. The axle still holds up the car.

I'm sure you knew this, and simply have your terms crossed.

[dave571]

Originally posted by ramcharger_440
The guy in Tulsa many people around here have recommended gave me a price of $200. Is that reasonable?

I think $200 is reasonable, and would gladly pay that, to have that done to one.

[nhdriver]

I got my Dana 60 out of a Ford school bus I Cut off the "full floating" ends w/ a pipe cutter at the bone yard (and left them there) had a set of Mopar axel flanges welded on, put in aftermarket axels, a spool, new ring & pinion and went drag racing! it cost me hundreds of $ less than a ford 9" PS:in 5 years it never broke! I broke 2 or 3 8 3/4's before I put in the Dana.

[dwc43]

Originally posted by dave571
Not to harp on this, but if the wheel studs are on the axle, then this is a semi float axle. (has a flange, just like any other 9 ")

A full float axle is the type seen in one ton trucks/ duallys, ect. The axle itself takes none of the vehicle weight. The studs that hold up the vehicle are in a hub that rides on brgs, on a stub support shaft. The shaft/ housing takes the weight.

On a full float axle, the axle can even be removed from the vehicle without jacking it up, or taking the wheels off.

I've never seen such a thing on a car. Even the old style 8 3/4 with the tapered axles, is still a semifloat axle. The axle still holds up the car.

I'm sure you knew this, and simply have your terms crossed.

Nope. The terms have not crossed and I do know there meaning. This is a full floater and the axles can be removed without pulling the wheels. I can also get them in different tube lenghts too. How many ya need??
p.s. might even get you a pic latter if I get the chance.

[dave571]

I'd like to see picture that, when you get a chance of course.

[dwc43]

Lets see if this works.

[dwc43]

Hey! IT worked for a change. My pics wont always fit, but this one worked.