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  #31  
Old 10-14-2003, 12:46 AM
Gary Pavlovich Gary Pavlovich is offline
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Default 402 stroker

Billy,
Great to hear from you!!! I have big plans for the heads and tunnel ram; got some really good mods to make it a street killer under 6000rpm and it should fit under my hood to boot!

Take care and give me a holler.

Thanks again!!!
Gary Pavlovich
glpavlovich@cox.net
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  #32  
Old 10-18-2003, 08:13 PM
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panic panic is offline
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Shameless self-promotion; click the cover for details on the (yes-it's-coming-eventually) booklet:
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  #33  
Old 10-18-2003, 09:55 PM
LikesMopars LikesMopars is offline
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Default Poly 318 Headers

I saw NOS headers on Ebay sell for $455 (beat me by $5!!) and a tri-Y set sell for around $550. Try this place:
Stan's Headers
Email:Stans@wa.net
1-800-962-6467
4715 Auburn Way North
Auburn,WA 98002

I'm doing the same build almost but I'm using the dual quad with Holley 450s.
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  #34  
Old 10-18-2003, 10:59 PM
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Thanks a ton, I'll look into the Headers, might be cheaper then having RAM racing custom build me a set. What kind of headers, large or small tube?
Also, problem guys... Was told my 402 Stroker won't fit into my '72 Dart, any info/ideas?
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  #35  
Old 10-19-2003, 09:37 PM
LikesMopars LikesMopars is offline
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Poly 318 Headers

1 5/8" primaries down to a 2 1/2" collector. I tried to attach a picture, but couldn't. What's your email, I'll send thru msn messenger? If a Hemi fits in a Dart, a Poly will.
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  #36  
Old 10-20-2003, 04:56 PM
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iamleatherjacket@hotmail.com
I thought the Poly would fit, course this guy (like a shit ton of others) have been trying to discourage me from my 402... But screw them, this is my car, my engine, and I'll do what I want... lol
Thanks for the help/support guys.
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  #37  
Old 10-20-2003, 05:27 PM
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Ok, decided on either going with a 2x4bbl or a 3x2bbl, I've found a six pack setup online, and I'm waiting for the guy to get back (hoping not more then 200 bucks for the intake) but if I can't find a six pack or dual quad intake for cheap, I'm going to have to fall back to the Weiland Stealth (209 bucks that I've found)
If anyone has any intakes lying around (GARY!!!) send me a message so I can start pricing and figuring how much cash I have lol.
Laters guys,
Jay Beebout
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  #38  
Old 10-20-2003, 06:27 PM
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rumblefish360 rumblefish360 is offline
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Quote:
Was told my 402 Stroker won't fit into my '72 Dart, any info/ideas?
Well, it may not be a bolt in. Thats for sure. But you'l find a way.
Quote:
I thought the Poly would fit, course this guy (like a shit ton of others) have been trying to discourage me from my 402... But screw them, this is my car, my engine, and I'll do what I want... lol
Now thats the spirt!
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  #39  
Old 11-11-2003, 12:19 AM
LikesMopars LikesMopars is offline
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applause, salutations

Gary P. and Obsessed you guys are my new heroes!

I'm glad you decided on the 4" stroker. I'm going the low, low, low budget stock 360 crank and pistons route for my '65 Coronet.
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  #40  
Old 11-11-2003, 12:33 AM
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Another note on possible header fabrication for your project:
It has been suggested that a Ford “5.0” (Windsor 289, 302, 351 etc.) small block header has a port size and position (4.38” bore centers) similar to the poly “A” (4.46” bore centers), but the wrong bolt pattern. Even if carefully centered, the middle ports will be off by .040" each, and the end ports by .120". It looks like you need at least 1-5/8" tube for the 318 ports. Be careful: the later 4.6 “modular” V8 is much too small. The Ford flange has eight bolts located on the port centerline, one on each side of each port; the poly “A” has eight bolts arranged in two rows with one above & one below each port. It appears to me that the easiest way to adapt this is to use a poly “A” blank flange, lay the Ford header over it, notch the Ford flange where needed to allow the poly “A” bolts to pass by it, position it as well as possible, and weld inside the Ford flange bolt holes to the poly “A” flange, as well as a few other spots. An extra poly “A” flange between the two would be helpful, since you could use the flange thickness to “transition” the port location a bit.
Sawing the flange in halves or quarters between pair of bolts may also help. Try some Mustang swap meets for used “shorty” headers to get a trial fit. Remember: your chassis may have fatal clearance problems – don’t buy until you examine this very carefully.
The thing that makes me nervous is whether pulling the tubes apart that much (.080" each pair) may accelerate cracking at the collector. Using a big primary (1-3/4) will probably allow the tube to completely cover the 318 port even though the centerline doesn't match up, but I don't know if they make shorties in that size - 1-1/2 and 1-5/8 are most common. Note that some shorties use a "ball" collector end - should make fabbing your transtion in the street pipe easier to align, but you'll have to buy
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