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View Poll Results: Which Oil Is Best?
Synthetic 20 68.97%
Synthetic Blend 3 10.34%
Fossil based 3 10.34%
Doesn't Matter 3 10.34%
Voters: 29. You may not vote on this poll

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  #1  
Old 02-08-2005, 01:36 PM
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Biggrin Best Oil and How Do You Know?

The controversy over motor oils, specifically synthetic VS fossil based is an ongoing subject. There are those that swear that synthetics will make your engine last longer, and those who claim it isn't worth the extra cost and that regular changes of fossil oils are just as good.

My question is how do you know if your engine life has been increased by your oil choice? Years? Miles? What is the standard, and how long is an engine intended to last?

My truck has 191K on it and has used el cheapo VIP oil since being out of warranty, because it always was a heavy user of oil. (1 qt per K). It still runs like a raped ape and has had no internal mechanical problems. At this point, I can't guess how long it will last, but I have put more hard miles on this truck than any vehicle I have ever owned.

(Note: reference made to the '97 I traded in May '06 on the Mega Cab. '97 had 214K on it then.)

Ok readers, what do you think? Why is your oil the best, or does it really make a difference?
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  #2  
Old 02-08-2005, 09:40 PM
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Biggrin

Sythetic wont do anything except lighten your wallet a little. It does NOT add any hp and it still has to bee changed every 3000 miles cause your engine still ingestes dirt and it creates carbon from burned fuel as well. Also some amout or raw fuel makes it way into the oil as well. You should smell the oil out of one of our race cars, just for fun. And the filters are no better at catching that stuff than they were years ago. And you can't gain any fuel milage from it cause you burn fuel, not oil, so really, where do you think you would gain mpg from.

Now one thing syntho will do is take a little more heat before it starts to break down and yes, it will break down. That wont help a street car at all, but can help out a little on a race car. In the end, syntho is good marketing hype mostly and you can run either one, you wont know the diff.

I had a little go around and did some testing with one of the reps from one of these syntho only companies. He was shocked to hear that we changed the oil and filters after every race. He thougth we could go all year on one filter and fill up. He checked our oil and could not believe the amount of fuel and dirt that was in it. Tried to tell him that's what happens to dirt track cars. If you want it to last it must be changed after ever race and your street engine still needs it changed ever 3000 no matter what oil you use.
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  #3  
Old 02-08-2005, 10:26 PM
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BS!

ME? WELL, i dissagree withy dwc, and agree with him too, for starters, he is right, the filter is a filter, it will only do so much, you cant just not change your oil, it still gets contaminated! now, the disagreement part. i have a 318, its got 184,000 miles on it, dont burn any, dont leak any, and the oil is still clear after the 7000 mile change interval, i have a lister generator, it has 87,000 hours on it, never been opened up, well cept for valve adjustments. untill 4 mo ago, it was my electricity. i also have a 318 in my racetruck, it is a circle track truck (dirt) and that 318 spent 6000 miles in a duster that would run a easy 12.5, then it was de-tuned, and ran 95,000 in a 3/4 ton truck that pulled trailors and smoked cam and manifold camaro's, then, it got took out, de tuned smore so the other crybabys would stop bitching, and ran a season in my race truck. i blew a head gasket mid season (compression out the side of the block) and pulled the head off. it was not scored, or glazed, and it still had the crosshatch in the bore! NO SHIT! I use royal purple. and, since ive used royal purple, nothing wore out. also, my 4wheeler is a polaris predator, they are known for having hard shifting trannys that sometimes miss a gear, mine was not a xeption, well, i quit using the polaris synthetic and tried purple 30W. my tranny works BEUTIFULL! the reason? awsome lubrication! also, i cant find my literature on it, but purple has this additive, i think its called synerlec, it makes oil STICK, you can tell if you got it on your shoes! but it also has a polish in it. yes, a polish. it smoothes out rough surfaces (microscopicly). i beleive this was the reason for my gearbox shifting perfect now. Also, there is this guy who runs a 300 six ford in a sprint car, we talked him into using purple, he swears by it now, cause he said when he put it in, his temp went down 10 degrees. ask rumblefish, he's better at convincing than me.
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  #4  
Old 02-08-2005, 10:38 PM
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The first time I used syntetic lubes, was in 1990-1. I put it in the tranny of my cabover Peterbilt. The first time up thru the gear I noticed a real difference in shifting. Cab overs, by thier design have very sloppy shift linkage, exspesically after 750,000 miles, the "feel" of the tranny was much better. With 18 gears, heavy loads, mountain passes and 600+ miles a day, you do get a feel for your truck. I hauled the same loads over the same route for three years, a heavy load [maximum] on my away leg {east} and a very light load home, west. I put it in while waiting for my return load, the light load home.

Although I had the light load heading west, down hill, the tranny did run a little cooler, maybe five degrees on the hills. It was on my first trip with a heavy load, from sea level over the Rockies, that I noticed the big difference.
Between 15 to 20 degrees cooler, on the really big hills. So I put it in my diffs, and had about 5 degrees [max] improvement.

I sold the truck before I tried it in the engine, but I know alot of guys that won't run anything else.

From my experince, under light stress there wasn't hard evidence of syntetic being better. It was under heavy loads and big hills, that I could look at the dash and see the difference.
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  #5  
Old 02-08-2005, 10:44 PM
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also, in extreme cold, the normal 85-140 that they run in big truck rear ends gets too thick, and sticks to the housing causing real damage! synthetic iol of the same weight cures this problem.
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  #6  
Old 02-08-2005, 11:00 PM
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My truck has 191K on it and has used el cheapo VIP oil since being out of warranty, because it always was a heavy user of oil. (1 qt per K). It still runs like a raped ape and has had no internal mechanical problems. At this point, I can't guess how long it will last, but I have put more hard miles on this truck than any vehicle I have ever owned.[/QUOTE]

On a vehicle like that syntetic probably is a waste of money. Think of it like the birthday present you buy the wife and the one you buy for the girlfreind.
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  #7  
Old 02-11-2005, 02:59 AM
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I've used Mobil 1 almost exclusively since '95 and Dad has been using it even longer. One Sat in '97 I hit a road sign taking a corner wrong in my Lebaron GTS Turbo and split the oil pan open dumping most the oil before I got it shut off. All the cops though the thing was going to take it's last ride to the junk yard shortly after that. Dad welded the pan back up and we put it back together and it ran well for a couple of days when I lost 2 cylinders. Dad did a minor tune up (new plugs) and swapped the O2 sensor the following Sat and came out to get me at work when I got off. When he got to my job he had a goofy grin on his face, and I figured he had done something. As we walked out to the GTS he told me that he ran across some hotshots in a fairly new Impala SS with a loud exhuast and cross flags in the front fenders who thought they had a fast car. Dad didn't know how fast he was going since the speedo only went to 85mph, but was getting some funny looks from the guys in the SS and had to keep backing out of it because the car kept overboosting at the same time Now keep in mind this car had idled for a short time with ZERO oil pressure after having the bottom of the sign chop a hole in the pan, then went Impala hunting the next weekend. Now my Shadow ES, I had a oil leak and let it get to low, and scrapped the engine because all the oil was up top in the head (too low oil, too much RPM, too often combined with a bad idiot light and an idiot at the wheel, me). Dad has also had his Cherokees run Mobil 1 and ran 210K in one when it wrecked and the current has 276K on it and the biggest problem is the neutral starter switch and rust. The Beauville had typicle small block Chevy problems (rings came apart after 125K and would barely run when it's headlight wire caught fire at 160K, which was good since the 700R4 was about ready to come apart on it's own anyway, how is it that GM products were supposed to be better than AMC's and Chrysler's?) Mobil 1 was also the stuff Shelby put in all his production cars since he went to work on the Omni's, and all the manufacturers who claim 10K per oil change all say to use it for those purposes. My former nabor also had a few guys he worked with at the county would run the stuff for that length of time while just changing the filter every 3k and adding more oil just to cover the loss from the change!
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  #8  
Old 02-13-2005, 11:12 AM
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I use Mobil One exclusively now, too. I ran my 86 B150 318 Dodge Van on it since it was new. I sold it at 301,000 miles, and the guy who bought it is a friend of mine. He's still driving it, and it's now got 350,000+ on it. Only major repair was head gaskets.

I use it in all my vehicles now.
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  #9  
Old 02-27-2005, 02:56 AM
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hey, frankendart! you wrote this reply the 13'th, did you just now vote?? Dicks gonna kill you
i was just wondering caus eit jumped back to the top.
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  #10  
Old 03-10-2005, 03:32 PM
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Default Syn vs fos

Being from Minnesota I can safely say there is a difference using synthetics especially in cold weather. It doesn't take a chemist to see at -30 regular oil is like Vaseline and synthetic still pours. The problem I have had with synthetics on higher mile cars is the damn stuff finds a way to leak. I recently changed back to regular oil in my 94 cad STS (190,000 mi) and the leaks all but stopped (from the pan and rear seal) I was told that synthetic oils have irregular molecules thus some are smaller. These small molecules, though good at getting to all angles of friction bearing parts, (that is why some find lower temps on working parts) also escape more easily.

Just my thoughts!
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  #11  
Old 08-31-2007, 01:27 PM
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I use synthetic only in high temp applications. The twin turbo 340 has oil cooled turbos so it is very hard on oil. Lawn tractor is air cooled and runs in a tough atmosphere at heavy continuos load. Other than that they all get dino + EOS. 16 year old Escort with 190K of all commuting in Minnesota with lots of very cold starts. Still runs perfect and doesn't use any oil at all between changes.
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  #12  
Old 08-31-2007, 05:50 PM
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Smile My choice

Is synthetic. I don't know why anyone would state that it needs to be changed every 3K. It absolutely does not. The filters should be changed at 3-5 K, but not the oils.
Look guys, you cannot argue with oil analysis reasults. Synthetics are slipperier, have less temperature reaction, and don't need changing often for those reasons. The ASME three ball wear test proves beyind any doubt, the effectiveness of synthetics.
Need proof? Get all the info you can about the two oils. Research the internet for independant testing results.
Need more proof? Look up the percentage of over the road truckers using synthetics. It's overwhelming. Successful trucking companies track their oil analyses, and change their synthetics by the results. These rigs run over 20K before oil changes. Yes, they run non stop, but the pressure of heavy loads and high operating temps proves the worth of synthetics.
You can't run a successful trucking enterprise without close cost control. Oil costs money. Engines and down time cost way more. Need more reasons? The oil you buy today has most of the protective minerals and elements removed by EPA edict. Adding the important additives to improve the lubricity of current oil supplies is costly, and you still must change every 3-5 K miles.
I'll continue to change my filter, with a Fleetgard, and enjoy the small but significant operating advantage of Royal Purple synthetic, every 12K. To deny the advantages of synthetics is down right silly.
Ron
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  #13  
Old 08-31-2007, 06:36 PM
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Biggrin

I run Amsoil oil and filter in my Mega Cab and change at 3K miles only because the truck is still in warranty and I am following the owner's manual to the letter. Once out of warranty, I will extend oil changes to a more economical schedule.
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  #14  
Old 09-01-2007, 09:28 AM
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two months back the owner of the shop where i work, and i took his hobby car to MT. CARMEL IL. to willys. and ran it on the dyno, we picked up 75 hp. 9 of those were from the oil. they switched from valvoline vr1 to joe gibs oil . this is a 355 generic motor that pulls 17in. vac it is a two brl. and puts 390hp to the ground. as far as race oil goes id say joe gibs is pretty good. AND ITS A CHASSIS SHOP I CANT HELP THE FACT THAT THEY RUN GENERIC MOTORS BUT IM TRYING.
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  #15  
Old 09-01-2007, 02:41 PM
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I plan to switch to synthetic when I buy my next new car, but like Cudadrag points out, the tendency to leak is a real deal killer for me.
I've got beaters and some of them leak a little already. Potentially making them leak worse, no matter how improved the actual lubrication, plus the extra expense for synthetics just doesn't seem worth it to me at this time.
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  #16  
Old 09-02-2007, 09:14 PM
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I put snthetic in my charger and now the temp gauge doesnt even get to the operating line. So if its takeing heat out of a engine, its takeing friction and wear out too, right? Thats should be a good thing.


95 v-10 ram
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  #17  
Old 09-02-2007, 10:00 PM
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That isn't right. Synthetic isn't going to reduce friction that much. I would bet your thermostat is shot.

I looked in your profile and you have a '74 Charger listed. Unless your engine has just been rebuilt, putting synthetic oil in is a crapshoot. It tends to leak past old seals.
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  #18  
Old 09-03-2007, 12:32 PM
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The 318 has around 5000 miles on it. My thermostats fine, the synthetic seems to have droped the temp some. As for leaking past seals i did notice some blue smoke on a start up. I might be going back to regular oil, or synthetic blend.


95 v-10 ram
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  #19  
Old 09-06-2007, 09:26 PM
74charger SE 74charger SE is offline
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Has anyone used synthetic blend? I have to agree with DWC, i like changing my oil every 3 to 4000 miles so synthetic blend probebley isnt doing me any good either.


95 v-10 ram
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  #20  
Old 09-08-2007, 08:44 PM
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Just because you change your oil, doesn't mean you have the same protection with any oil..
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  #21  
Old 09-08-2007, 11:02 PM
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Oil Extrime..... If Holton Hemis is going to say it works in his SUPER STOCK AA/SS Its good for me. He has the Dyno sheets to tell you.

Goodluck on this one
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  #22  
Old 09-09-2007, 04:43 AM
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Never heard of it.

Got any info?
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  #23  
Old 09-09-2007, 10:16 AM
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tk, check out the web site for all the info.
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  #24  
Old 09-15-2007, 06:45 PM
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I am a synthetic fan, myself. I know for a fact that it protects better. All of the police cars in the Denver metro area use Mobil 1 exclusively. A friend of mine bought a police interceptor LT1 350 from a cruiser to rebuild and supercharge, to put into his '70 SS ElCamino. After pulling the engine apart, he discovered one thing;

He wasted $60 on a set of gaskets. The hatch was still present in the cylinders after 350,000 miles of use in the police car. He assumed that any engine with that amount of miles on it would need a rebuild. The only thing that he did to the engine was set the injectors, air flow meter, and new wide band o2 sensors up for a whipple charger and surfaced the heads and block for metal head gaskets. The block measured at absolutely zero taper.

He went to the Lakewood Police fleet management and asked what the hell they did to the car. They said that the engine never had a rebuild and they are forced by law to replace the engines after 350,000 miles, which is what that engine had on it. He asked to see the maintenance schedule and saw that they would change the oil in the cruisers with 10w30 Mobil 1 after 6,000 miles like clockwork. That sold him.

By the way, this vehicle is his daily driver and it runs 12's all day long at full running temperature.

One thing that people should know is that Synthetic doesn't do well in an engine that has used fossil based oil for an extended period of time. The cylinder taper and gaskets become accustomed to the seal softeners and properties of the fossil oil, which is the primary reason that you hear stories of synthetic oils finding leaks in engines. Most of those problem engines wore into fossil based oils before having any amount of synthetic oil used in them.

In a fuel injected engine, you have far less cylinder wash when compared to a carbureted engine, let alone a race car engine that runs extremely rich and only about 10% efficient. All gasoline engines run at 30% efficient (with the exception of some hybrids) at best.

I don't know one race car that doesn't get it's oil changed after a night of racing, as dwc pointed out. dwc is also running on a dirt track, which is even worse than four wheeling through trails, because the track loops on itself and creates a giant dust bowl, between him and the other racers on the track. Dirt track is probably the hardest climate to expose any car to. Turbo rally cars are probably the most suceptable to engine damage caused from poor oil. I'm willing to bet that most dirt track race cars don't run very tight air filters, because they restrict, which means that they suck far more contaminants into the engine, as well as run unchoked and rich metered carburetors for bottom end/ acceleration.

You have to understand that race cars are running on a far less efficient structure than a street car and this heavily affects cylinder wear and fuel/ contamination of the oil as well as seal contamination and breakdown, but synthetic oil will still prove more worthy on a race car for protection, if you can afford it. Synthetic works quite well on flat tappet solid lifter setups in race cars that are past break in. No matter how often you change your oil, the only amount of protection that matters is while the engine is running and synthetic is simply more resistant to breakdown and engine damage than fossil based. That's really all that matters.

One thing that I will add to that is that I don't believe break in lubricants and break in periods are engineered for synthetic oils. I have heared of more and more people using synthetic right at break in, but I have also seen with my own eyes that synthetic protects so well that it doesn't allow rings to seat and lifters to match cam lobes, etc.

The best thing to do when switching over to synthetic is to allow your engine to break in and do it's regular 500 mile change, 1500 mile change and at the 3000 mile change, switch over to synthetic.

On fuel injected engines, because of the lack of cylinder wash and increase in efficiency, you can get away with adding synthetic oil even after about 30,000 miles worth of fossil fuel use.

All of my cars run synthetic, with the exception of my '88 Supra with the factory 7MGTE turbo. The only reason that this engine doesn't use synthetic is because it has 185,000 miles (and still runs strong). We bought the car when it had high milage, however, we did pull the head to replace the head gasket and found the hatch visible with no ridge wear or taper that any micrometer could measure or that we could feel or see.

The only reason I decided to run fossil oil (at the factory recommended 15w40 weight) wasn't because of the cylinders. If it were dictated by lack of cylinder wear, that car would have synthetic in it already. I decided to stay with fossil oil because of the old seals on the pan and everywhere else on the engine, even though most of them are o-rings. You simply don't want to switch over to synthetic after high milage, because of the seals, but if you wanted to, you could replace the pan seals and other seals exposed to the oil and run synthetic all day long on a high milage engine. As long as the cylinder wear and bearing wear was minimal to nothing, the engine would take nicely to a synthetic change and last longer. That's exactly what my friend did with the LT1 with 350,000+ miles on it.

He had no amount of machine work done to that engine, aside from bigger valves and resurfaciong for metal head gaskets to accomodate the supercharger. He just replaced the gaskets because he destroyed them when he took the engine apart to examine the bearings and cylinders. That engine is still running on the original bore and bearings with synthetic after 350,000+ miles. I have no idea how many miles are on it now, but I would guess at least another 80,000 on the odometer. He did that engine swap some 5-7 years ago and it's still in that truck.

What most people don't understand is that milage has absolutely nothing to do with longivity. The only thing that matters is wear. I have seen engines wear out more in 20,000 miles due to nitrous, compared to a naturally aspirated engine that runs measured fuel injection with absolutely no amount of cylinder wash. That 185,000 mile 7MGTE looked cleaner than the cylinders in my friends 40,000 mile re-rung slant six that was modded with a clifford four barrel.

I would say that the highest contributing factor to an engine's death is cylinder wash and poor air to fuel measurement. If you can nail your A/F ratio, even on a carbureted engine, it will do more for your performance, engine life and economy than any amount of expensive oil, but combined with an expensive/ synthetic oil, you simply can't beat it.
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Old 09-18-2007, 09:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrashedCharger View Post
I would say that the highest contributing factor to an engine's death is cylinder wash and poor air to fuel measurement. If you can nail your A/F ratio, even on a carbureted engine, it will do more for your performance, engine life and economy than any amount of expensive oil, but combined with an expensive/ synthetic oil, you simply can't beat it.
Not to diminish anything you said, but, actually, I'd say the highest contributing factor to engine failure would be poor maintenance habits, and abuse. Stoga is a mechanic, I'm sure he can tell you that many people simple don't take care of their cars as they should. Premature engine failure or excessive wear resulting. Even the cheapest oil and filter is better than no changes.

I have oil analysis done to my vehicles twice a your. No issues so far. I run Mibile One in everything, and change it every 3000-3500 mile, because I want to, it's relatively cheap insurance. I've never had an engine failure while using Mobile One, and have seen some extraordinary mileage. One van with a 318 is at 400,000+ miles and still works hard, every day. It had a trans failure at 51,000. I put in a New trans, and dispite warnings, I went to synthetic trans fluid almost immediately. The rest of the miles on that trans have been trouble free. Trans fluid has been changed every 35,000 miles. I also installed an electric dip stick and tube from a 76 B200 van. It has a trans temp light built in that mounts in the dash. The light is sensor is functioning normally, and the trans has never overheated, even in our 110º temps, pulling a lot more weight than 904 was ever meant to pull.


My Chevy 1/2 ton Pick up, and my Ford 1/2 ton van have also responded favorably using Mobile One. I've owned both since new. The pick up is a 2000 with a 4.8L V8/auto, with 165,000 miles and is used every day. No mechanical issues so far. The Ford is now approching 200,000 miles on the 5.8LV8. Only mechanical issue so far has been an idler pully, and an AC leak.

I'm sold on synthetics. To me the extra cost is well worth it. The last 25 years of cars and truck making at least 250,000 miles without an oil related repair using Mobile One is proof of that. At least to me.
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Old 09-19-2007, 05:49 PM
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I completely agree. I suppose that my analasys was stated without calculation to any neglect to an engine caused by the operator(s). Given the elimination that the engine's life could be run short by bad ownership in one way or another (driving habbits and/ or maintenance, etc.), poor A/F ratio combined with even the best ownership habbits (or worst habbits and everything inbetween, for that matter) is right up there.

Actually, just yesterday, I discovered that Mobil1 is not a fully synthetic oil and that it is a Group III fossil based oil that is processed with the same refining technology and additive packs as used in fully synthetic oils. Unless an oil is classified as a group IV (first type of fully synthetic base stock oil developed) or a group V (lump category for all other types of fully synthetic base stock oils), it is not a true fully synthetic oil.

I was a bit shocked to hear that myself, but I may discontinue my use of Mobil 1 oil. This information was actually released to the public fairly recently by the Exxon corp.

I don't think that there is anything wrong with Mobil 1 as an oil. In fact, I do think that it is far more uniform in molecular structure and because it is processed using synthetic technology, it is a better oil than other kinds of fossil base stock oils, but it is not as good as a fully synthetic base stock oil.

There is some merit to what DWC was trying to tell us, in the factual case that we are paying premium prices for Mobil 1 oil, which is still a fossil base stock group III oil, however, not ALL oils are this way.

The reason that this is happening is simply out of the politics involved. Greed and a slip of a law technicality that oil companies are making tons of money off of, keeping any amending or adjusting of the law out of congress with a patent (that's right, a patent on an oil formulation) which is now allowing companies to advertise group III fossil base stocked oils that are processed with "synthetic technology" to be advertised as a synthetic oil in the United States.

However, this is not the case in european advertising and regulations, as well as Japan. It's not allowed there, over seas, unless it is a true group IV or V oil.

I won't go into crazy details in this thread, because I believe that this information (which I will be providing) merits it's own thread that I think everyone will benefit from.

My very recent decision to discontinue the use Mobil 1 is based off of two factors-

1.- There is better protection available.

2.- I am not interested in paying the higher demanding prices of a fully synthetic oil for a fossil based oil, no matter how it is refined and what kind of add. packs are used in it.


By the way, ester, which is the most dominant anti-wear component in synthetic oil, which is also what some may recognize as the seal softener that some of you know of, is one of the base properties seen in higher volumes (if not THE base property in some group IV/V synthetic base stocks) is what helps condition seals in engines that do not have leaks in them.

This means that synthetic oils causing leaks is completely hear-say and the truth couldn't be further from the opposite. What causes leaks are, qite simply, are just seals that need to be replaced or corrected otherwise. A truely synthetic oil will actually prevent leaks FAR better than a non-synthetic oil.

I'm going to do a back search through this forum to see if I can't find any information regarding the basics of oil science. If I don't come up with anything conclusive, I'm going to post an extensive article that will help teach the fundamentals of oil as we know it today. Oil technology has evolved quite a bit along with the automotive industry, even without the addition of true fully synthetic base stock oils.
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  #27  
Old 09-19-2007, 06:04 PM
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dust dust is offline
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Syth.

How do I know? I don't. I have not researched this in much depth.

But Chrysler, Porsche, GM, Mercedes +++ probably have...

To illustrate:

Mobil 1 is factory fill in:

* Acura RDX
* Aston Martin
* All Bentley Vehicles
* Cadillac CTS, CTS-V, Escalade, XLR, XLR-V, SRX, STS and STS-V
* Chevrolet Corvette C6 and Z06
* Chevrolet TrailBlazer SS
* Chrysler 300C SRT-8
* Cobalt SS S/C Coupe
* Dodge Caliber SRT-4, Charger SRT-8, and Magnum SRT-8
* Jeep Cherokee SRT-8
* Mercedes-Benz AMG Vehicles
* Mercedes SLR
* Mitsubishi Evolution
* Pontiac Solstice GXP
* All Porsche Vehicles
* Saturn Ion Red Line and Saturn Sky Red Line
* Viper SRT-10

I don't know what Ford put in their Ford GT but SHELBY uses syth for the GT500.
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Old 09-19-2007, 08:24 PM
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I have to stick with what I know. After 25 years, and the excellent personal record Mobil One has in my vehicle, I have no reason to switch. How much better can it get? Zero oil related repairs, and 400,000+ miles on a stock 318, and similar performance on a host of vehicles. I'm good with that.
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  #29  
Old 09-20-2007, 12:04 AM
TK TK is offline
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Quote:
There is some merit to what DWC was trying to tell us, in the factual case that we are paying premium prices for Mobil 1 oil, which is still a fossil base stock group III oil, however, not ALL oils are this way.
Yes, but Castrol syn, Quaker state syn, Valvoline syn, are all in the same boat, I may have said this before, but I use "REAL SYNTHETIC OILS", LOL, and after reading the FAQ in Performance, I am glad I stuck to my guns.
DW never said RP, or REDLINE wouldn't work better, he was referring to store bought ones, like Mobil.

I know people wh o have got 300,000 miles, on havoline.
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