Car Crafts 383 to 443 stroker build up?
HI What do you guy's think of the mopar 383 to 443 stroker article in march Car Craft? They offset grind a 440 crank to 2.2 chevy rod size and used a 6.135 Chevy truck rod and KB/Silvolite [basically stock sized] piston. It looks like a very cheap way to build a stroker. The only problem I see with it is the excessive rod side clearance. They claim no problems with oil windage as they only plan a low rpm street motor. What do you think off this? I wish someone still made a Chevy rod with Mopar sized width big end. Manley used to make these but not any more. Anyone know the old part number of those rods? Maybe it's time to get a someone interested in building these for us again! Thanks Tim
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I think they're just trying to get us to sabotage our mopars with thier short-rod chevy junk!
torch |
Isnt a 451 stroker just a 400 block with 440 crank and different rods? That block has the same deck height as a 383 right? just a bigger bore? If thats true then why not just doa 451 build up on a 383 and get like a 430 ci something. You'd avoid the Chevy parts.
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thats one way to make a rod spittin dodge! :toast:
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If you take a 383 and stroke it with a 440 crank, you can still use the MoPar rods from ethier the 383 or the 440. The piston manufacturer will have to know this. The pin size may have to be changed though. Easy for the machine shop to do.
Save money and do it right the firt time. Longer rods are better anyway. |
[ Longer rods are better anyway.[/QUOTE]
yes they are, that swhy dodge makes torque even with a short stroke :toast: |
About the article's methods and mindset... Sound like a lot of work even if you happen to have all of the components just laying around. Much more work than going on a 440 search! A 440 60 over is 452 I think, and for all the trouble and machining expense they went thru it seems a 440 rebuild would yield the same actual on-the-road results. I understand the "stealth" aspect of knowledgeables thinking it is a 383 "B" engine, but most non-MoPar people would not recognize the difference between the RB and the B engines-------plus most of them think a 383 is a stroked Chevy 350 anyway.
AND the 400/451 stroker setup is well documented and easier to reproduce. |
The method is the same whether you start with a 383 or a 400 block, the 440 crank is machined the same way, although if you offset grind the rods to 2.2" you can come up with approximately a 3.900" stroke which in a 400 block gives you 470 cubes and in a 383 gives a 443" assuming stock bore of 4.250". The mains have to be cut from 2.749" to 2.625" and counterweights have to be trimmed to around 7.25" circumference to fit the low-deck block. You can also leave the rods at the Mopar dimensions and have the 451" 400 block or 426" 383 block. The two advantages to going the low-deck stroker route is lower block weight (35-40#) and lower rotating weight since the pin height is moved up quite a bit on the stroker pistons, giving a slight power increase over a .060 hi-deck 440. If those two considerations aren't a factor, believe you would be better off cost wise to find a 440. One thing too, is the fact you could still offset grind the crank and run it in a hi-deck and come up with a 470" , although I'm not sure if anyone makes a kit for that combination, problably would need the 7.100" rods with custom pistons. You just have to decide how much effort and expense you want to put into one of these combo's.
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214 to 219
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So you think .700 extra deck height is only 2 1/2# per side............I don't think so........... I suggest you get some real blocks and weigh them and not depend on something printed in a book.........................No way every different bore low deck or high deck block is going to weigh the same..................
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440 with main caps is 224 lbs
My 440 with main caps is 224 lbs. and is bored .030
The 400 is no way under 200 lbs. with main caps. |
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