the stock 360/318 (3418645) rods... hp rating??
HI!
plans for my 2drht dart for this winter is mounting a turbo... been it the theory thing for a time now, and turboed both my mercedes and toyota pickup(diesel). now the v8 is next. the plan is to use a big turbo holset hx55 and low compression ratio, and therefore get a "low" cylinderpressure(but over a longer time) compared to a n/a engine with same power-level. it's a 318. plans for setup: stock block (1973) stock crank stock pistons some ported x-heads bumpstick: summit @ 114lsa 218/228@050 custom headers and intake megasquirt for fuel and ignition holset hx55 and the rods are the stock ones, but I'm curious what people say they can stand up with! I have read about some pretty tuff 360's with stock bottom end,and they last... come on,give me some rumers or setups you drive on the stockers! (cast.nr. 3418645) daniel |
I am running those in a n/a 360 with about 350 HP and have been in there for over 8 years and were used b4 that. :-)PCRMike
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four barrel engine rods
powerdodge
I believe the rods from four barrel small block applications are the beefier ones you may wish to use. cheers AARRACER |
are there differences even with same casting number? this engine is a 73 2bbl
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It may be just that one has a pressed pin and the other has a floating pin? AARRACER |
Mine were press pin fromthe 73 core I built from. Granted, a full SS treatment was given to them. Balanced and smoothed, etc. These were actually in my bud's rod, we built about 4 years ago. I forgot I am using newer rods from an 85 in mine. His is stouter than mine. It is around 375 HP and 445 tq. He rags his mor than I do mine too, and he has no issues, even running as high as 6500 RPM with hollow pushrods and stock crank. :-) PCRMike
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Yes
There's a fellow here with a 10.50 dart small block (360 on juice)with stock "prepped "rods, that the weak point is the block. 12.5:1 cr, FULL PORT w2's, 0.650 roller, etc. the rods were never a problem! AARRACER |
We run stock '68 or '69 full floating pin rods in our race cars. 365 making around 400hp. They have ARP rod bolts, been weighed,matched, balanced, magnu fluxed, polished and shot peened. I have never had a rod problem with these. They weigh the least out of all the rods and have a full floating pin for less chance of ruining a piston, pin, or rod. Mopar Performance engine books do not show a hp limit for any rod, but they do list an rpm limit of 6300 rpm for the stock rods. :king:
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cool...this is great info! thankyou! I will try to get full-floaters! guess there is some extra ponnies to get even there! :)
isn't it real common with full float rods in both 273,318 and 340 from 68-70? |
Info from "How to rebuild your smallblock Mopar" shows rod forging #2899496 as a heavy-duty floating pin rod used in 68-73 340's and 72-73 318's, with a larger .9842" pin. They are heavier than pressed-pin rods, so you need to consider that when balanceing. 3418645 is the forging # given for pressed-pin rods from 74 and up 318-360 blocks. They use a smaller .9480 pin.
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Welcome, anytime. The floater rods are more common in the older engines. Not really more hp, just stronger and less chance of messing up a pin or piston during the heat of the battle so to speak. And the 318 rod will be the lightest ones to find from the years I mentioned. THe lgihter rods will help in acceleration, but don't add any more hp. Just lets it hit the rpm range you run it in faster than heavier parts. :king: |
sure! I think the cam I've choosen is gone @ 5500, so I'm not worried about high rotating weight for the rpm, as long as it holds up for the power! but hey, as long as this things count to the positive side, why not!
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