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#1
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#2
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We were kicking this around last week. Some think it might require splicing and re-wiring at the very least.
I'd like to think they are swap replacements designed to use the original standard Ram wiring. Wishful thinking?? Anyone have experience with these?? |
#3
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Like ScRam3 said it might take slicing to make the bulbs work. But I think there is a chance even that is the same. I will look at our service truck to see if it is different than mine. Its a 98 Ram 3500.
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#4
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It can be done, you just need to add two holes and another power and ground supply for the inner lights. It has a two bulb system unlike my original one setup. Not a bad install and makes the truck look brand new.
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#5
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BluebyU, does the kit come with instructions or do you have to wing it??
What are the 2 holes for?? |
#6
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will the 9004 bulbs still fit the housing? or will we need to switch the bulb type too?
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#7
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I have the exact same headlight assemblies that come on the trucks from the factory, straight from my friend at the dealer.
They fit the same, the two holes are for the bulbs that are closer to the grille of the truck. My 97 had a one bulb set up with only room to plug one bulb through the hole. The two bulb setup requires another hole for the second bulb. Not a problem, easy installation and yes the 9004 works in the headlight socket closer to the middle of the grille. |
#8
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How do we get power to that center pair of lights? Or do we?
I already have the fog lights in my bumper and my high/low beam should work as it did before right? |
#9
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???????? My '01 has only 1 bulb each?
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#10
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HighBlack Ram You don't have the sport set up(bumper upgrade and the upgraded quad lamp headlights) No worries though, you too can convert with ease.
*Ng* I used factory headlight assemblies from Mopar and that is the experience I will be drawing from. I don't know a thing about those lights from procarparts.com(but they do look the same from looking at the pic) First of all, this is a lot easier to do with the bumper off, or at least with the top plastic piece taken off to prevent scratching. I did not remove mine because I have my '00 bumper at the paint shop getting shot now so I did not care if I scratched the current bumper. Remove the old headlamps. There is a ribbed retainer that is one the topside kinda off middle that is pushed thru a retainer. I could not figure out how to get this loose. Finally I just pulled the whole assembly straight out and it came. Appears that this is the way it is supposed to work, because it did not hurt a thing. With a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade I cut out the opening(you will see what I mean when you get it out) straight towards the radiator about 4 inches. I did this top and bottom. I did not have room to turn the jigsaw to make the vertical cut, so I used a hammer to bang the extra metal out of the way. Paint all of your bare edges to prevent rust. As far as wiring. The auto part store sells the sockets for a 9004 bulb. You will need 2 of these. I wired in my new sockets in parallel with the original(splice the matching wire together) Now you can install the new headlight assemblies. The inner bulbs will be 9004 and the outers are 9007. Dont worry, the 9007 will fit into the 9004 sockets. Corner lamps dont need to be changed(they are the same for both styles) Wiring them this way will give you a total of 4 lowbeams burning at once plus the foglights or 4 high beams with out the foglights. With a little creativity and wire you could put in some relays and get the foglights to work with the highbeams also. Let me tell you will see a lot better after doing this. As far as the bulbs go, the assemblies will only accept 9007 on the outer and 9004 on the inner. But it is a nice setup. If you have any questions email me direct. Sorry for such a lengthy post. Bill ![]() ![]() ![]() |
#11
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I would be concerned more about the long, or short, term effects of the added amperage that would be running through the headlamp switch and the multifunction switch.
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#12
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I hope you truly dont have both bulbs in each bezel burning at once, or youll have total meltdown of the plastic!!! Thats too much heat building up in there. Of course you are probably luckier than I am and it will work fine
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#13
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FYI I bought my clear corners from procarparts off ebay. Fast shipment, good product.
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#14
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Why are you updating to those headlights? Are they brighter than your current ones? or do you just want the 99-01 look? Just curious..
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#15
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You bring up a point about the heat. I have not experienced a problem yet, but I have not done any long drives with the head lights on. Hmmm, Does anyone know what the maximum heat range for the headlamp assemblies.
Thnx Bill |
#16
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I would be more concerned about the switch as J-Body points out, especially on earlier trucks. I think the newer trucks have a beefier switch, but several people have complained about roasting it after just bypassing the fog light relay and running high beams with fogs.
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#17
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The way I was planning on running these dual light setups was to run the stock wiring to one of the lights (the one in the stock location), and then run a relay to the second light and draw power directly off the battery. Basically the 2nd light would only come on with the brights, so I would Y the positive wire for the brights, running one to the "stock" bulb, and the other to a relay that would turn on the "extra" bulb with the brights.
Clay |
#18
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If the Sport models have the dual headlights, is the switch any different in these trucks? Do they run both bulbs for high and low beams?
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#19
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Glad you asked that question, and I hope someone answers soon. I don't know the answer. I do know that both of the bulbs in the Sport setup are dual filament. With my current setup on low beams I light one filament in each bulb. On high beam, I light up the othe filament in each bulb. So at any given time I am only running 2 filaments in each headlamp. I just got home and have been driving with the lights on for about the past hour continuously and the clear lense was hot, but not to hot that I could not leave my hand on it. I remember the old setup would be warm, but not hot. Anyway, I have not had any problems so far. If you look directly below the headlight on the inside of the engine bay, it looks like a relay. Is that what that little black box is? If so, I am not worried about the switch, plus that is what the fuses are for correct? Oh by the way, the front clear lense was hot like I said, but the rest of the assembly(back, top, sides) were all cool to the touch. Only the front was hot.
Bill |
#20
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I've noticed kits available for higher amperage bulbs that use a wiring harness with a relay to power them up. I would think this is the way you would want to go as it would eliminate the load through the switch. On the heat end of it maybe you could put a vent tube of some sorts in the headlamp housing. I know you could here as we have very low humidity.
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#21
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Ahh the wonderful switch, didnt even think about that!!! I had to replace my switch earler this summer due to it melting the connector in a couple locations, with my lightin setup all stock!! This should have been a Recall, but its not. I had to buy the damn 60 dollar revised harness pigtail and switch and solder it all in. The two points on the harness that had melted were replaced in the new pigtail with larger guage wire.
If the lens doesnt get too hot, then your half way there. Id suggest doing the other mentioned suggestion and running the second bulb on a relay and getting its power source directly from the battery, reducing the load going through the weak switch. |
#22
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RamThis
I guess I will add a relay just to be safe with that switch. I still am curious about those relays that are below the headlamps though. There is one on each side and the wires got the the headlamps. I guess the power could still be routed thru the switch somehow even with the relays. I don't know and probably no one really does either. Oh well, a relay is cheaper than the switch. I will probably do that tonight after I get off. I will post what happens. Bill |
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