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  #61  
Old 08-19-2007, 01:16 AM
demort71 demort71 is offline
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Default Resto Shop recommedation

Regarding what shop to have restore your R/T-SE. I can recommend you to a shop I have used twice. They are located in Minnesota. Where are you at and are you willing to do a long distance resto of the car, if you aren't in the Midwest?

This shop is small and is not as well known as the others that get a lot of ink, but the Mopar guys around Minneapolis know the shop's work and his restorations are respected and he has done some high profile cars before. You could also save some money over a high profile shop, because his hourly rates are lower (his overhead is lower because he is smaller) and he knows what he needs to do to rebuild an E-body right.

The owner is also an E-body lover and has had in his garage since 1974. He can certainly correctly replace panels and get everything lined up properly and his paint jobs are darn good.

The car he did for me appeared in a major Mopar magazine at the first big show I took it to.

If that is the kind of shop you are looking for, then you can email me at the following address and I will give you the contact info. They also have a web site where you can see samples of their work. They have been around since 1981.

Here's my email: "m51mopars" then hot mail . com
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  #62  
Old 08-28-2007, 12:31 PM
KZ KZ is offline
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Default reply to DeMort71

I appreciate the feedback on the MoparChat room, having trouble getting through to your HM account so I'll reply here. I live in WV, but the car is in WI, so MN would not be too bad of a distance. Could you supply me with contact info and the website? Id like to see some of their previous work.

BTW, I know the price of a full resto depends on the quality of the car you start off with, # of hrs put in, etc. but if I wanted to have the car restored to show room condition, not a trailer queen, but show room condition, all markings correct, a build sheet and have it checked out and certified by Galen Govier, what are we talking, in ballpark #s, as to the total cost of the project? $25K, $50K, $100K? All I ever see on the internet and in magazines is the before and after pictures but not much talk about what it all costs. Time is no concern for me, I don’t care how long it takes, I’m pretty sure it would be several yrs, I just want the car to look like it did when it left the factory/showroom and I could drive once in awhile.

Thanks again for your help. Anybody else want to chime in please feel fre
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  #63  
Old 08-28-2007, 02:06 PM
70Ted 70Ted is offline
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once you go to their store you will know why. fat chance of them letting you match parts up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by klonestar View Post
Id like to hear more about Jims ? Reason being im replacing all fuel parts from filler tube parts to tank to complete fuel line and since I live in NH Jims is the closest place for me to take my old parts in with me to match up with the new ones before purchasing. I figure in my case I should be safe as I will be onsight and can check out everything ahead of time.

Thanks,
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  #64  
Old 08-28-2007, 02:38 PM
70Ted 70Ted is offline
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i certainly hope not.

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Originally Posted by Jack_440 Savoy View Post
Anyone mention Layson's Restorations as a Good Supplier ???
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  #65  
Old 08-28-2007, 08:50 PM
demort71 demort71 is offline
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Here is the shop: John's Body Shop, Nicollet, MN owner John Sieberg (pronounced See-burg).

He has a web site with lots of pictures of the cars he has done. Type in "John's Body Shop Nicollet" and you will find his web site. Several of his cars have been featured in mags through the years. You can see a picture of mine, which is the yellow 71 Chall. R/T. in the magazine feature section of his site. The shop is located in the country at the owners house, near Mankato, MN. It is a regular business, not someone's garage. Through the years he has expanded his shop.

I can't say what your car's resto might cost. I would expect $50 min for what you describe. A couple of years ago he was charging $7500 for a show paint job. Not cheap, but his work is very, very good. His metal and body work are as good as any of the shops that you read about in the magazines that charge upwards of $100 an hour and more. He was charging $40 an hour a couple of years ago.

Don't expect any reputable shop to give you a guarenteed flat fee for the whole job. Es[pecially for body and metal work. Paint jobs yes, something as variable as metal repair-no. They can give you a rough estimate though. Plan on buying as many parts as possible for the resto yourself. You can have them shipped to the shop or take them there yourself. Their time is your money is the bottom line, so do some of the work for them like scouting for parts they will need to make repairs or put it back together.

John extensively rebuilt the body of my Challenger between 1988-1990 and then repainted it. The entire rear clip was replaced on the rear of the car in pieces, including the subframe rails and almost the entire front clip. Every piece of trim fit great on the car, it had good gaps and alignment. His 24 year 0ld son is doing a lot of the paint work now and the kid has a lot of talent.

One of the cars that this shop recently restored was a Dodge show car used in the spring of 1970. It was the first Panther Pink Challenger made, the convertible with the pink stripe, white int., 440-6/4 speed. Awesome car that was on display at Carlisle in the exhibition building about three years. The car was featured this past year in MCG mag.

For the quality of work it performs and the guy's experience and knowledge of how they go together, John can offer you a bargain on a higher end resto and he will go as far as you want.

If you want him to do the whole resto meaning reassembly of the whole car, then probably $50K won't quite cover it. You would have to talk to him to get a better estimate.

If you car is rust free or won't need a whole lot of metal replacement and you don't care about the quality of the paint, then there might be a lot of other shops that can do a pretty good job of getting it smooth for paint and then laying down a fairly decent paint job. You will have to decide what your car will be worth when done and what you want and expect out of it.

I would suggest you research what is assembly line correct for factory inspection markings, the way the suspension is supposed to be finished, etc. You can always add the markings yourself or go back and change a few minor things in the engine compartment.

Any way, John does very good work. He is very knowledgeable, but not like a hobby icon like Frank Badalson, but he knows how they went together and make them look stunning.

John never worked for any other shop. He took a body shop course in the late 70s at his local community college and then started doing it at home as a business. He just had the natural ability and talent. If you want a righteous resto at a lesser price than the TV show shops, I think John can deliver for you. Contact him and see what he has to say. John is a Mopar guy and owns a couple of Challengers of his own, one since 1972.



Phone: 507-947-3120

Fax: 507-947-3392

E-Mail: jsieberg@hickorytech.net
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  #66  
Old 09-17-2007, 08:58 PM
jdunn72 jdunn72 is offline
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Lightbulb thanks for the tip

Quote:
Originally Posted by eckertt@epri.co View Post
Sam,

OK, nobody wants to touch this, so I will ramble a bit more.

I have bought a lot of restore parts from a local guy (~60 miles away) named John McBryde. His company is named Motor Parts South. He is a very nice guy, and certaintly seems to know his stuff. He got some pretty cool Mopars as well.

We were chatting the other day, and he related the following story (my paraphrase is a very shortened version): There is a whole network of mopar guys that are actually the "manufacturers" of these restore parts. (I will call them "makers.") (i.e., these are the ones that sell to Year One, etc.) Each of these "makers" might only make one or two different parts. For instance Maker 01 might have spent the capitol to tool up and make the very specific part: "tag to attach to a sure-grip differential that says sure grip fluid." And Maker 02 on the other hand figured out where to buy bulk "cat whiskers" material for the side glass and then cut, form, and package them for each specific Mopar application. And Maker 03 invested the time and money to make "clone" decals to stick in the engine compartment and other places.

Well, according to the story, all these "Makers" know each other and also sell to each other at wholesale prices. Obviously they also sell to Year One at wholesale as well. But they don't sell cheap to Joe end user because that would ruin the 'buddy system' they have going.

Don't get me wrong; I am not suggesting that their 'system' is bad. I just wish I had an inside connection, which I do not.

My local guy John McBryde, will quote me a price out of the Year One catalog, but he does not charge me shipping (if I drive to his place to pick up the goods.)

So again, this probably doesn't do you any good, but it kept me off the streets for the last 10 minutes.

Tim
Tim Thanks for the parts tip. I am in the process of a 72 Charger SE and been looking for reputable person to get parts, but does he also have body parts?
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  #67  
Old 02-06-2008, 04:56 PM
J. Williams J. Williams is offline
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Anyone know where I can get a Parts Book for a 1967 Plymouth Belvedere II?
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  #68  
Old 02-20-2008, 10:27 AM
Challenged One Challenged One is offline
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So much GREAT info from you guys. I'm a newbee here. Just bought a '71 Challenger and can't wait to get it home and start. It's going to be 100% down and up. I have dealt with PAW (Performance Automotive Warehouse) in Cal. with great success. their prices are very good and the quality not bad either, for a driver car, not show.I've done a few cars over the years and a divorce (what's new ) wiped me out pretty bad a few years back. Had a '57 T-Bird on it's way back together when the bomb dropped. I know BOO-HOO ! Anyway, you guys are giving me a WEALTH of info, since I've been out of it for a while. Some of these places I've dealt with and are good. Thanks for the heads-up on the bad. Don't need to go through that crap. That's what makes this such a great site. So much help, it's awesome. I used to have to pick through the boneyards to find parts. I'm going to do that too I'm sure but I wanta do this car pretty nice. I've like a little boy with a new toy, and I don't even have it home yet !. It's going to be a real CHALLENGE (HENCE MY NAME ) "cause the guy that owned it since new is a real JACKLEG. YUP, I'll be the second owner. Tried to buy this car 25 years ago ! I know I'm rambling so I'll shut up and listen some more. Thanks for all the help in advance when I start bending your ears for help !
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  #69  
Old 02-29-2008, 07:09 PM
bates9p bates9p is offline
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Help My very first post!

Greetings Everyone!

I am happy to be a member of this knowledgeable group of Mopar enthusiasts. Having said that, I already have a question. I just pulled the rallye instrument cluster in my 1970 super bee because the gauges are dead. I noticed that the circuit board has some minor trace damage. Any idea where I can go to get this thing fixed? Locating another board has been a real bear! Any ideas?
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  #70  
Old 02-29-2008, 10:37 PM
hotrod7043 hotrod7043 is offline
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We used to have aguy At the dealership that could fix some of them, San Jose Speedometer downtown used to do them, or just get a pn and get runnnining it on locaters.Also which Gages are Dead? a Volt li miter might Cure the problem.it it plugs in the back of that cluster.
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  #71  
Old 02-29-2008, 11:51 PM
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ehostler ehostler is offline
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Here is an incomplete assembly with a good circuit board, on ebay. It's currently at $31.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1970-...em190201409601
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  #72  
Old 03-15-2008, 07:37 AM
apocalypsesrt apocalypsesrt is offline
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try six pack performance! they are in albuquerque new mexico and can get you anything you need. call and they will qoute you fair and they are familly owned and mopar racers. art has been on and in several mopar mags and i have been in his garage and seen his hemi farm. lol. they are bad ass boys with bad ass toys and know their stuff. they can even build you a engine with your specs and have it freighted to you or send you the stuff to do it yourself. they have tons of parts and are authorized mopar dealers. Tell them mike strother sent you and they will pry give you a better price.

six pack performance
3021 4Th St Nw
Albuquerque, NM 871071317
Phone: (505) 345-8539
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  #73  
Old 03-15-2008, 07:39 AM
apocalypsesrt apocalypsesrt is offline
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sorry i also forgot to say that i got all my parts for my 65 coronet, 64 polara, 70 challenger, 69 (10 second) road runner, and 05 srt4. oh and my first gen cummins truck. they helped me w-the pump. lol
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  #74  
Old 04-14-2008, 08:56 PM
jrf_josh jrf_josh is offline
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thanks for the tips!
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  #75  
Old 05-21-2008, 07:21 PM
crashing513 crashing513 is offline
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were would be a good place to find nos parts or repo if i have a fac part number.
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  #76  
Old 05-24-2008, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samcuda View Post
i have bought many parts from year One,jacks,jims,and laysons over the years,and the repro parts all seemed ok-I am now doing a major resto on my 69 cuda notch. In making up my list of parts i am comparing prices and availabililty and there seems to be a big and small difference in the price of parts between dealers-some higher or lower,and not always the same place-is there a difference in their suppliers-better quality or just better prices-i am looking for opinions and facts-example-a forward light/engine harness in year one is 175.00,but in jacks it is 229.00-,but yet on similar items jacks is cheaper,and vice-versa-waiting for replies-sam

Lol, Its definitly a closly controled racket. I have spent hours searching and comparing prices from different mopar suppliers while rebuilding my Superbee. I find the only difference in the parts are the part numbers and prices. The parts area basically the same and from the same mfg. I have also found that the original mfg seems to sell a little cheaper in most cases. Which tells me the other suppliers are buying his stuff and marking it up.

I can tell you this. The best move I made was buying my self a bead blast cabinet. It has saved be an un countable amount of money restoring my small parts. My car is apart on a rotisserie as we speak and every piece of it has been apart. I have been able to save nearly all my nuts bolt and washers. Even the muffler hangers with the mopar numbers, the wiper transmission with numbers. All my door pieces and I`m still going.

Dose anyone know of a cheap re-chromer for bumpers that can do a good job?
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  #77  
Old 11-21-2008, 07:28 PM
ladysmanrob ladysmanrob is offline
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Okay some one who makes nos parts for dodge truck. I make the mirror brackets for 1962-1971 dodge trucks. I also make the 12 high density square shims that are loacted under the cab and the box. I am working on gloves boxes and the fender stabilizer. I have sold 30+ mirror brackets and have just recently statred selling the spacers and have sold 10. Seems like I an make them as fast as they are leaving if you want any theses parts or used parts for these years I am here email me and see what I got cause I have alot ladysmanrob1@yahoo.com. I am also on EBay and have been for awile selling parts and are on 6 of thees forms minus one shitty form which wont mention.
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  #78  
Old 12-26-2008, 12:59 PM
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1962savoy 1962savoy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eckertt@epri.co View Post
Sam,

OK, nobody wants to touch this, so I will ramble a bit more.

I have bought a lot of restore parts from a local guy (~60 miles away) named John McBryde. His company is named Motor Parts South. He is a very nice guy, and certaintly seems to know his stuff. He got some pretty cool Mopars as well.

We were chatting the other day, and he related the following story (my paraphrase is a very shortened version): There is a whole network of mopar guys that are actually the "manufacturers" of these restore parts. (I will call them "makers.") (i.e., these are the ones that sell to Year One, etc.) Each of these "makers" might only make one or two different parts. For instance Maker 01 might have spent the capitol to tool up and make the very specific part: "tag to attach to a sure-grip differential that says sure grip fluid." And Maker 02 on the other hand figured out where to buy bulk "cat whiskers" material for the side glass and then cut, form, and package them for each specific Mopar application. And Maker 03 invested the time and money to make "clone" decals to stick in the engine compartment and other places.

Well, according to the story, all these "Makers" know each other and also sell to each other at wholesale prices. Obviously they also sell to Year One at wholesale as well. But they don't sell cheap to Joe end user because that would ruin the 'buddy system' they have going.

Don't get me wrong; I am not suggesting that their 'system' is bad. I just wish I had an inside connection, which I do not.

My local guy John McBryde, will quote me a price out of the Year One catalog, but he does not charge me shipping (if I drive to his place to pick up the goods.)

So again, this probably doesn't do you any good, but it kept me off the streets for the last 10 minutes.

Tim
sounds like the retail chain of events that has been happening for centuries.These guys are in busness to make money and nothing else,just like you they have to earn a living,but not like you they took a chance and a leap of faith and either make parts or sell them to you to put food on the table.

"But they don't sell cheap to Joe end user because that would ruin the 'buddy system' they have going."

I dont think any store or business would last 5 minuites if they had to sell it to the end user at wholesale pricing! If you dont protect your retailers they wil drop you like a rock and then where will you be???
I have seen many hobby industies go down the tube just by having unscruplious wholesalers selling to everybody and not protecting their industry.You'll just have to suck it up buttercup and pay just like the rest of us
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  #79  
Old 12-27-2008, 08:54 PM
Century Cp Guru Century Cp Guru is offline
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Six pack Perormance is not A Mopar Dealer , they may be a Mopar Performace Dealer, Art Pacheco is a very Knowledge Mopar Guy.They are a Quality shop. A Mopar Dealer is A Car dealership always has been, now Bieng a Mopar Performance dealer is a totally different thing, the Only One i have heard Of that had a Dealer Code is Mancinis , and they got that Many years ago. Thats a Whole Different story, AMopar perf Dealer cant Order Non Performance Parts.
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  #80  
Old 01-01-2009, 05:02 PM
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I am still looking for a tail light panel froa a 69 superbee. It seems that no one in the after market is making that particular panel. I will even take a good used one.

Just got my mmm magazine and discovered that Mancini is supposedly selling aluminum BB heads that have been cnc ported at a reasonable cost. Also comp cams has a new valve spring retainer out that is supposedly reasonably priced and it is sized to allow for more rocker arm clearance.
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  #81  
Old 08-29-2009, 07:27 AM
valkyra_mo valkyra_mo is offline
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I have picked up a 73 Valiant that was sitting for 5 years...she needs a lot of love.I have done a national junkyard search online and come up with nothing, I might have the only 73 Valiant left? Anyway, I am trying to find somewhere that I can pick up after market quarter panels. I've done searches online and can find the sheet metal, but I don't weld. Can anyone give me an idea where I might find a company online that makes aftermarket body parts, or a company here in Missouri that is reputable?
thanks
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  #82  
Old 09-17-2009, 02:47 PM
mopar1972 mopar1972 is offline
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Default were can i get these babys

i need a set 1973 road runner hood scoop inserts. i would like to buy a fair used set. help please....
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  #83  
Old 10-16-2009, 08:10 AM
340_GTS 340_GTS is offline
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I'm surprised nobody has mentioned PG Classic. Some of their repo parts are nice. Bought an ash tray cover and a rear view mirror from them recently. Also a bulb/socket/lens kit for my fender turn signal indicators. They were at least as good as OEM parts. That's the good. The bad: I bought some rally wheel center caps from them too. The paint was terrible and not of the correct texture. But they took them back, no problem.
http://www.pgclassic.com/
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  #84  
Old 11-22-2009, 12:48 AM
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don340-4 don340-4 is offline
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Default Challenger dash pad

Has anyone bought a dash pad from Ultimate Rides? I need a new one for my 70 Challenger. They use your original steel frame & build a new pad on it, I'm looking for any comments on quality, fit, how it looks, close to original or not.
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  #85  
Old 03-25-2010, 12:27 PM
Ross Ross is offline
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Default Yearone verses yearone suppliers

In most cases I have found that Yearones price are just a touch taller than the original manufacture / supplier. When its close pricing I still buy it from Yearone. Why? The no questions asked return policy! I have had parts for two years sitting in my shelves only to find they were the wrong parts. Yearone took them back with out batting an eye.
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  #86  
Old 11-12-2010, 10:42 AM
ResQ91 ResQ91 is offline
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I would add RT Specialties for alot of hard to find stuff. He has every fastener, clip, you could ever want. Best part is the guy (Rick) really knows his stuff.
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  #87  
Old 01-16-2011, 08:20 AM
MoparFeverForEver MoparFeverForEver is offline
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Any one know were to get old 81-93 full size truck panles. Thanks
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  #88  
Old 01-16-2011, 04:17 PM
old woolie old woolie is offline
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Biggrin

I've got lots of old ones, it's new ones that are hard to find.
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  #89  
Old 12-12-2011, 07:52 PM
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been reading this thread with interest now a question about :Yearone andTonysparts , how farback do they go? I have a 48 Chrysler Windsor . I need help with a part that connects the fuel line to the gas tank , referred to as "ChryslerFuel Nut" .This part threads into the actual fuel tank but dont know what to tell the parts guy and is there any "O" rings or washers between the two . Ive had a hell of a time getting this gas leak fixed .
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  #90  
Old 12-30-2011, 12:05 AM
floghole22 floghole22 is offline
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Idea coronet wiring harness

Quote:
Originally Posted by hemidodge68 View Post
most of what everyone else has posted is the way it is.....i'm speaking from a standpoint of working for mopar parts for 20+ years. if the suppliers catalog says "original chrysler part"...then it 99% of the time that is the case. i have seen people sell counterfeit stuff. it used to crack me up when guys would come in and brag about the "deal" they got on a oil pump pickup tube or whatever from year one....and then i'd tell them how much cheaper i could have sold it for. bad thing is these days most people in the dealers' parts departments know NOTHING about the older cars and most dont have catalogs for them anyway. only reason year one had so much of the original chrysler parts is the main chrysler parts distribution center for the southeast region of the US is in atlanta...right down the road. up untill the last few years there was still a pretty fair amount of "old" parts still taking up shelf space....i know, because i sold as much of it as i could get my hands on ! as far as aftermarket parts go.....just like the first reply said....lots of little guys making a parts or two. therefore you have lots of really good vendors that have mostly the same products....but they all carry a few items the other guys dont have. another tip: if you need interior parts....get them from the supplier and save some money...EXAMPLE: all seat covers and related items from year one are actually from legendary interiors...just repackaged. same with sheetmetal.....the only one actually stamping the stuff is goodmark industries...so find your closest goodmark dealer and save yourself some freight money. there are several different manufacturers on new wiring harnesses...all appear to be good quality. cheaper ones are probably more mass produced, some are individually hand made....as far as i know though, they only sell them through select vendors. i'm actually tooling up to make some hood emblems for the '68 gtx & road runner myself.....and then i'm also gonna be looking for a place like year one, jack's, tony's, hardens, etc... to distribute them. all it takes is just identifying the need for some of these parts that just cant be found used.
i would like to find a replacement wiring harness for the dash and engine/headlight to put in my 67 coronet 500. I have excisting wires connected through firewall with solderless connectors and nothing is working except ignition to starter, with detachable coil wire to shut off engine. I would aprecciate some help finding a good harness close to original so to make easier install
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