Brake improvements

[fox]

I have a 98 Durango. I want to improve the brakes.
Does anyonw know if a larger master cylinder is available for it?
Pads and shoes are in good condition but it just doesn't stop like I want it to.
It has rear anti lock on it and they brakes are weak compared to other vehicles I drive.

[Walkercolt]

Fox, it's not the master cylinder or brake booster, it's the calipers and rotors. For alot of money, a couple of places can sell you the kind of brakes you want. Stainless Steel Brakes is one. You're looking at a couple of grand. For less money, there are some guys in Texas who sell cyrogenically treated rotors, and pads with much better grip (and shorter life) that will help alot. I don't have their name in my 'puter thanks to the old hard drive, but you can Google them. The liquid nitrogen treatment of the rotors makes them stronger and tougher. The GenIII Dakota's (I have one) and your Durango require more pedal effort than most vehicles, and that's normal. The brakes will still hold the vehicle with the throttle wide-open however. I think it's two-steps back from the old "touch the pedal with your toe and throw the back-seat passengers thru the windsheild" like my old '58 Imperial's brakes. If you look in your owner manual at the stopping distances, your Durango is comperable (or better) than most mid-size SUV's, so it's really a "feel" thing, but I understand. Better pads and rotors and stainless steel brake lines (Goodridge) will give you the "feel" you want I think. I also like Valvoline Synthetic DOT 4 brake fuild (or Castrol Syntec). It has a higher boiling point than DOT 3 fluid and has a better "feel" and it's safe for all the brake componets, even though the manual reccomends DOT 3. If you can score some rear disc brakes from a later model Durango, that will really give you the brake feel you want. Most salvages have a cross-reference book telling you what will fit. Best of luck.

[JVMopar]

The biggest thing I've noticed with my Dakota and Ram is the rear brakes aren't contributing much. Infact it's hard to get them to lock up on icy roads. Shoes, drums, and wheel cylinders are in good condition. No one makes a proportioning valve that's like the factory fail safe and adjustable at the same time. I'm going to be bypassing the factory valve with an adjustable one on the Ram. I don't drive the dakota enough anymore to warrant messing with it.

[fox]

One thing I didn't mention, was that I have been in other Durango's and they stop nicely.

I am beginning to believe it is the rotors/pads.

I have read on another site that turning flywheels and rotors on a lathe is not the best way. It is bad to have the cut line in the direction of travel. I may remove the rotors and glass bead them, then clean them up and retry them.

I do appreciate the replys you have given me.

[fox]

One thing I didn't mention, was that I have been in other Durango's and they stop nicely.

I am beginning to believe it is the rotors/pads.

I have read on another site that turning flywheels and rotors on a lathe is not the best way. It is bad to have the cut line in the direction of travel. I may remove the rotors and glass bead them, then clean them up and retry them.

I do appreciate the replys you have given me.

[flipper35]

I have the ceramic composite brake pads from NAPA ($90) and they surprise most people when they bounce thier nose off the steering wheel the first time they drive it, especially when it's humid out. Seriously though, they do have a great firm feel and good performance. I can hustle along the backroads and have no issues with the brakes.