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#1
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Hey, well I finally did it. The car ran a best of 13.88 at 98.38 MPH. The only trick was to bolt on a set of 145,000 mile 360 heads. Oh, yeah just lap in those 1.88 stock valves and run 13's. I did nothing else except mill the heads 40 thousandths to make up for the big jump in cc's. The only problem is that I keep smoking the back plugs especially #7. The 600 double pumper has 68 jets in the front and 74 jets in the rear, but still smokes them. I figure with it misfiring the whole way down the 1/4 that if I fixed the problem it would run high 70's. Like the racers always say your never satisfied. I'd like to run high 12's next season, but I not sure how. I plan on milling the heads a little more, porting them, and maybe switing to a different converter. I am running a GER 4000 stall 9" now, but the guys at Turbo Action said that by switching to their 8" 4600 stall converter I could see my 60 ft times drop from 2.05 to 1.70. I also may switch intakes to a dual plane instaed of the torque robbing M1 single plane. If you have any suggestion please tell me. My combo. is as follows: 273 bored 30 over, 10.5:1 JE pistons, Mopar 276/522" lift (with 1.6 rockers) solid cam, M1 intake, 4.56 gears, 4000 stall converter, and 3600 lb. 4-door 68' Dart.
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#2
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I think you have done very well. Propably mild porting in the heads wouldn't hurt anything, just don't make the ports a lot larger or you will loose velocity, and need even more rpm than now. The TA converter should do wonders, your 60 ft time is bad, should do better. I don't know what another intake would do, maybe a performer RPM would be worth trying, my friends have also had better results with the Victor 340 than with the M1. But I guess you can take all the bottom end you can get, so maybe the RPM would be a better choice.
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#3
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Good deal!!! and I do remember you and the car.I was wondering what happened.I would go along with the plans for the heads.It sounds like you may have a guide leaking on that #7 cyl.I wouldn't switch the intake,but I would switch the converter.I use Turbo Action converters and valve bodies and they are the best.They know their stuff too.You may also want to jump up 2 jet sizes in the primary and see what that does also.I wouldn't change too much,you've got a pretty stout combo as it is now.
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#4
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Congrats thirteener! it's a great accomplishment. I can't really offer any suggestions as i am in my learning stage with my 440 duster. Just wanted to say way to go!
p.s. Maybe we should start a thirteener club, probably would 'nt last, we would have to keep changing the name!......12'er, 11'er ect... |
#5
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Your hi Stall converter will work the best with your M1 intake. The single plane design makes more horsepower at high RPM (4000-7000) while sacrificing bottom end torque. By going to a dual plane intake, your putting most of your HP and Torque in the lower (2000 to 4000) RPM range. Which is well below your stall converter speed. You will also lose HP in the upper RPM's where you need it for your hi stall converter.
I really think the reason this combo is only giving you 60 foots of 2.05 is the fact that you have a 95% race converter, intake, gear, etc. and only a 600 carb. I would try a Vac 750 or a mechanical unit myself. Unless your running street tires or couldn't get traction, a 2.05 is kind of bad. My Dad's car runs 60 foot's in the 1.90's with his Duster which has a STOCK converter, street tires and a 3.23 gear!! By the way: if nyou need to get some sticky street tires go to: www.butlertires.com or www.butlertire.com and get set up with a set of McCreary Road Stars. These tires work good and are less than 100 bucks!! I have a friend with a Shoverolet Shovelle that ran a 10.06 on these tires!! (496 BB with NOS) The downside to this (there always is one) is that the tires come in only 15's (many widths available though) and they wear out kind of fast. I ordered a set of the L60's for my car, and I will try them out this weekend (Oct 2). Anyway - if you really want to go with the dual plane, consider going to a TCI 3500 stall instead. This will get your torque curve and converter a little more in sync, and not sacrifice drivability at all. Before taking your heads off to do some porting, polishing or milling work, you should look at some other things you can try to speed it up. I run basically untouched "J" heads on my car, which have only had a valve job. I have a 1973 Dodge Dart Sport, with 12.5:1 318, a 750 Holley Mech on a single plane Holley Strip Dominator (similiar to M1 in height), with a 517/292 cam, a TCI 4500 converter, and going back to a 3.91 gear. My best ET is 12.87 and my best 60 foot is a 1.67. FYI The Dartman [This message has been edited by The Dartman (edited September 29, 1999).] [This message has been edited by The Dartman (edited September 29, 1999).] |
#6
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I'd be interested to hear where things went with the 273 from when this thread was last posted to since I'm going forward with a 273 build myself some time in the next year.
I have a '66 Formula S Barracuda that will mostly be a street car with the ocasional autocross, track day, or trip down the 1320. Its a 904/3.23 8.75/Disk car. I've long since gotten the chassis dialed-in, but the current 318 is sick and it's time to resurect the OEM 273 with some upgrades. What I currently have on hand is the tired 273; a 4340 steel, small main journ, 3.58" stroke crank; some K1 rods, an Edlebrock Performer intake, Holley 650 4160, and some ported 273 heads (1.88/1.6 valves; curently on the dead-ish 318). Some of this stuff is overkill, but I prefer to do builds like this as infrequently as possible. Because its a street/autocross car, and I like to balance the car with the throttle, engine braking is important, so I'll be sticking with the tight converter in the shift kitted 904. Considering a Gear Vendors OD and FI at some future date to see if I can get it into the 30MPG range on the highway. Dave |
#7
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Quote:
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#8
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Yeah, I kind of figgure that's a long-shot, but you never know.
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#9
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30 mpg and digging posts out of 99! awesome!
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