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#181
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This is for anyone that may not want to modify a block by drilling and taping to run oil cooler and/or remote filter lines.
I found a really nice billet aluminum bolt on adapter that Canton Racing Products sells. It has two 90 degree 1/2" pipe threaded ports and bolts on in place of the oil filter with no modifications needed. The part number is #22-595 and it lists for $70.00 on their web site as of this date. I hope this helps someone looking for a hard to find quality product like this for a Mopar. CJ |
#182
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sanborn, why is drilling the block to oil the rockers risky to do? The intersecting hole would only be about .080" and an 8-32 machine screw could plug the top when epoxied in place. Is there something I'm missing here? Have you had bad experiences with this? CJ
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#183
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Yes, I have had a bad experience. Cast iron is not a consistent animal---there are hard and soft spots. And the drill bit can wander off. And if it wanders off, you are in trouble.
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#184
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i am building a w2 headed r3 for dragracing purposes. i cant imagine it would be going much over 7500 rpm, would all these mods be necesary for me? if not, which ones would be most benefical for me? thanks for your time....
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#185
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I have two or three thoughts about answering this:
1. W2 headed SBs like RPM. I think you will be past 7500RPM before you know it. Build the engine for more RPMs than that. 2. The longer the stroke, the more oil it takes to fill the crankshaft with every revolution. A stock 340, under full load, has just barely enough capacity to fill a 3.331" crank at 7500RPM. 3. You have a R3 block with provisions to oil from both front and back. Why not use the capability of the block? 4. The oiling mods take a little time, not much money---why not do the mods? 5. The mods to the main bearings---I would definitely do! |
#186
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well this is going to be my first r3 so i don't know much about it. and i am planning to run the 4.18 crank so i didn't think my rpm would be that high. plus on top of everything all the oiling mods would not be done by me, i don't have that kind of experience to run a drill through my block. is there any way to send my block to you so you could do all the necesary mods? i would pay for everything, i just want it done by someone who has experience with it. thanks
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#187
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I wish I could help you out. But, I just don't have time with all the projects I have now. And, I am getting to the point in life where I can offer advice more than actually doing------In other words I am getting too old and tired.
I understand your apprehension at putting a drill bit to the block. But, all you are doing is improving what is already there. It's really not hard---just takes patience. GO FOR IT!!!!!!!!!! |
#188
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well thanks anyway, i will try to show my engine builder some of these pics. So maybe he can do them while putting the shortblock together........i'm really sorry to bother you about this but what are your thoughts on the
P4876791AC race block? i don't have any 48 degree parts so i went with 59. Nobody around here is really heavy into mopars, and i am just getting into these cars. again sorry to bother i just got a lot of questions and can't find any answers. |
#189
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It's not a bother at all---I'm just getting to the point where I can't get as much physical work done now as I did a few years ago! Show your engine guy the write up, if he has questions have him call me. Send me a PM, I will send my phone #.
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#190
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post#5 trying to aquire the required post count so I can veiw sanborn's oil mod attachments. sorry for the cheesy way to do this.
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#191
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post#6 trying to aquire the required post count so I can veiw sanborn's oil mod attachments. sorry for the cheesy way to do this.
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#192
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post#7 trying to aquire the required post count so I can veiw sanborn's oil mod attachments. sorry for the cheesy way to do this.
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#193
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post#8 trying to aquire the required post count so I can veiw sanborn's oil mod attachments. sorry for the cheesy way to do this.
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#194
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I hope this the last waste of space and everybody's time
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#195
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was it common to have a main feed from the galley that necked down from 9/32 to 1/4 with the 9/32 being drilled approx. 2" from the main toward the galley? I am about to do the oiling mod's that you speak of in your post ,,after running this 360/408 combo for a year at the drag strip I pulled it down for a inspection and found some bearing's that I didn't like,mostly rod's and feel that the mod's would help this situation,, one question, what size restriction would you reccomend for the cam bearing's this motor has a solid roller and push rod oil's so I only need enough to lube the bearing and the oil passage has been plugged to the head at the head.
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#196
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Most passages from the mains to the right side galley is only 1/4" or 17/64". The real problem is many are not drilled completely. I would drill the total passage to 9/32".
Be sure and slot the main bearings to match the block. Your rod bearings will thank you! If you are oiling through the push rods, you don't need a cam bearing oil hole larger than .080"---I know some that only use a 1/16" hole. |
#197
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Thank you Sanborn, this has been a great and informative post, lot's of excellent information, wish I knew about this last year at this time when I was about to put this motor together,,,,live n learn
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#198
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One more question about this oiling system, is it necessary to have such a large feed hole in the rear main? looking at mine it is approx 1/2 in dia and is fed by the main feed from the filter, is it somthing that could be restricted down to the 9/32 size of the rest of the main feed's so to add additional volume to the rest?
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#199
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I suspect the rear main oil feed was to insure adequate oiling of the main bearing---this main gets most of the stress in a standard engine. But in a race engine, the rear main is no more important than the other mains.
It can be restricted---maybe down to 5/16". But I have never done this---Why?---guess I have never felt the need. |
#200
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almost there
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#201
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and the rock has
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#202
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this has been great info sanborn. wish i knew about this along time ago.
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#203
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just tryin to get the post i need to view more good info.
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#204
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Quote:
First: Sanborn. I understand the concept of the cross-over. But should there not be a plug in the drivers side oil gallery BEHIND the cross-over fitting, if lifter bore bushings were NOT used? And secondly. Perhaps anyone can offer an answer to this.......... I want to add a 1/2" pickup to a typical Melling pump. Does anyone offer a package for this. That would be, drill and tap the side entrance for a centre-sump oil pan. Any tube and pickups available or do we fab? Any pictures out there? |
#205
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Sorry for the late response---I haven't been checking the site lately.
If I didn't say to double plug the left side galley when installing the crossfeed line---then I should have. If you don't double plug then you are at least partially defeating the purpose. Sorry! For the second part of the question---I am not sure I understand the question. Are you trying to have two pickups? If so, you can use the standard pickup line and add a second with a bottom plate with a pickup in it. Keith Black did offer such a plate back years ago. Don't know if they still do but it shouldn't be hard to make! |
#206
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sanborn just wanted to say thanks for taking the time to help us. GM= pile of chevy! ha ha
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#207
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Thanks for the response. I pretty much assumed about the second plug. It's not even mentioned in the mp bibles.
About the second question. No, I'm not talking about the dual pickup. Been there. Done that. Got the tee shirt. Upon expanding the 3/8" standard pickup to a 1/2", does any company offer the hardware for this, or do we make our own, ie: use stainless braided hose, or what.........? |
#208
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There are several companies that offer a larger pickup tube. I think Milodon offers one, Kelvco---oil pan people offers one.
It's been so long since we ran a wet sump---I haven't kept up with who---somebody else chime in please! |
#209
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I think my pickups that come with my Kevko pans are 1/2 inch, they are in my motor so I cant easily check
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#210
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Sanborn, I need a little help with my oiling system. I did not realize you had to do so much modification to the oiling on the small blocks. Reading your articial I see I need to make the changes to keep the bottem end together. You say there are some aditional changes with running a dry sump system. I would like to here about them. Do you still use a remote filter to feed the front? Also my block is set up to feed with a 10 instead of a 12. will this be big enough with the feed to the front? I have a 4 stage aviad pump with three 12 suckers out of the pan. this is my first big mopar an I have not found anyone in this area that knows mopar when you get much past stock, especially a dry sump system.
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