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  #1  
Old 01-30-2011, 06:39 PM
Evanko Evanko is offline
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Default HOLLY model 1920 AARRHHHG !

hello everyone ive recently purchased a 73 duster with a slant 6. for about 2 weeks now ive been trying to get her going, to no avail. so yesterday after rebuilding the carb (holly 1920) and adjusting the float and putting it back on ive had some success. she will start and run if ive got it matted but she is geting totally choked up with fuel even after the rebuild, can these carbs just go bad from sitting? and if so what are some options for carbs that would bolt up onto that motor for a decent price, im not looking to smoke tires or anything just cruise around till ive saved up some cash for a rebuild im trying to get her going on the cheap. thanks ~K
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  #2  
Old 01-30-2011, 06:43 PM
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Bad float?
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Old 01-30-2011, 08:18 PM
440roadrunner 440roadrunner is offline
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Sounds like the float is sticking open or too high, flooding the engine.

Think of a carb just like a toilet tank. There's a few things that are important:

Fuel coming in must be CLEAN, the tiniest particles can get stuck on the needle/ seat and cause leakage.

Float (brass) must not leak, or float (foam) must not be saturated

Float cannot "drop" too far, causing binding and sticking. There should be a spec for this in your kit diagram, normally a bendable tab on the float arm

Float cannot allow fuel to come up too high, which will allow fuel to siphon over into engine.
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Old 01-30-2011, 09:49 PM
Evanko Evanko is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 440roadrunner View Post
Sounds like the float is sticking open or too high, flooding the engine.

Think of a carb just like a toilet tank. There's a few things that are important:

Fuel coming in must be CLEAN, the tiniest particles can get stuck on the needle/ seat and cause leakage.

Float (brass) must not leak, or float (foam) must not be saturated

Float cannot "drop" too far, causing binding and sticking. There should be a spec for this in your kit diagram, normally a bendable tab on the float arm

Float cannot allow fuel to come up too high, which will allow fuel to siphon over into engine.
i setup the float to the spec requirments of the 1920 rebuild. after still observing the carb flooding the motor i also tryed seting the float even lower in the bowl, this improved the flooding very little, if any. what else could be causing this flooding? can they just go bad? or am i missing something else?
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Old 01-30-2011, 10:03 PM
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What material is your float made of? Are the needle and seat new?
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  #6  
Old 01-31-2011, 01:16 AM
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JVMopar JVMopar is offline
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Look down the carb with the engine running. There should be no visable fuel flow at idle. If you see something dripping or fuel flowing from the boosters it's not gonna run worth a darn.

Does that 1920 have a power valve like the 2210 does? When I rebuilt my 2210 it didn't come with the power valve. I ended up getting a kit from Carquest that had the valve in it.

Otherwise replace it with a Carter BBD. May not be a performance carb, but it's very reliable. I've got one on my plow truck, reliable as the sun.
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Old 01-31-2011, 01:21 PM
Rich Kinsley Rich Kinsley is offline
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Did you put in a new needle/seat? As mentioned that could be damaged allowing fuel to enter. Another issue with aftermarket fuel pumps can be too much fuel pressure. I had that with my Holley mech pump without a pressure regbulator. It was putting almost 11psi to the carb which bent the floats all to heck. If you can, check the fuel pressure. I think it should be in the 4-6 psi range. If you get over 6psi it may be an issue and require a regulator which is easy to install and probably in the $30-$45 range.
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Old 02-01-2011, 08:52 AM
Evanko Evanko is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dick View Post
What material is your float made of? Are the needle and seat new?
Float is solid foam. Needle and set are new. Fuel pressure is good. Car cannot idle hardly at all. Carb Spits at lower rpm. Only runs at 3000 and above. Totally being flooded
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Old 02-01-2011, 10:35 AM
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Is the float new or the original?
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  #10  
Old 02-01-2011, 06:09 PM
Evanko Evanko is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dick View Post
Is the float new or the original?
original foam, no damage looks good moves smooth... i doubt its a float problem that's why i was wondering what else could be awry internally
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  #11  
Old 02-01-2011, 06:14 PM
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It may look good, but may be fuel soaked and too heavy to float. Easy to test.
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  #12  
Old 02-11-2011, 05:12 PM
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underdog39 underdog39 is offline
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Once upon a time, along long time ago. i had also rebuilt one of those carbs and had similiar trouble. i had installed the float upside down. there is also some special deal with the float/needle seat/ baffle if equipped. study the instructions real close, it might be just an assembly error. good luck..
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Old 02-19-2011, 12:10 PM
RacerHog RacerHog is offline
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Any updates?

I'm with Dick.... Float problem more than likely.....

Blow threw the fuel inlet and see if the seat is sealing......
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  #14  
Old 02-20-2011, 01:15 AM
Evanko Evanko is offline
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hey guys. so i replaced the float and had the whole carb redone by a local shop, came out nice looks brand new and was tested to be fine. so after some more examination it was determined that a rod is either stuck or burnt (kinda sucks i put so much $$$ into this thing) im told this is why the spitting is so persistent at lower rpms. next step is to tear her top apart and see how bad it really is in there, may just be selling this motor in a month or so depending on what i find. thanks for all the ideas guys
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  #15  
Old 06-08-2012, 12:16 PM
Glenn E. Cozad Glenn E. Cozad is offline
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Evanko: save youself a lot of heartache and 86 the holley 1910. Crap of a carb. Go to a junkyard and find aBBd Carter. Cheap, fast and easy. Rebuild on the BBD is the same and will prove to be a much more reliable choice. Just a recommendation. Glenn. IF YOU HAVE the manifold to accomadate it.
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Old 06-10-2012, 10:20 AM
Mroldfart2u Mroldfart2u is offline
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