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#1
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magnum cyl.head removal
hi guys, i have a 97 model 5.2 magnum that has burnt valves (i think) on #5 & #7 cyl.--does anyone know if its possible to remove the head w/ot removing the intake?
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#2
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Sure can
Dynamite! Works like a charm. Be careful of the surriunding area.
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#3
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Use new manifold bolts because they are a one time stretch. The head bolts might be too. Check with your dealer.
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#4
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thanks
thanks dick,do you mean intake/or ex. manifold,no one has said if the head can be removed without removing intake--anyone tried it?
hey peg leg, get a life,you must be really bored--i think the comedy club has some openings |
#5
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Quote:
I think peg leg answered your question. At least, I thought he did. Besides, there are too many comedians and not enough wrench pullers. As an afterthought, are you sure it is valves or could it be holes in pistons? Does this truck have a history of pinging? |
#6
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thanks again
i dont know for sure its valves,but it doesnt smoke at all--just skips,i dont know any history on this truck,just bought it (or stole it for 2200.00)
from a guys family who passed away in 04,the truck has sit since,thus the valves are not seating,trying to clean them up chemically,so far w/no luck--any suggestions |
#7
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Quote:
You might run some Sea Foam through it to dislodge any carbon buildup. Most auto parts stores carry it. It will clean your combustion chambers. It might drive itself out of the problem. |
#8
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Well a compression check will reveal if the valve's are seating, but it still won't tell you if they are burnt, or if it is stuck lifters. However if you drive it and the lifters don't release, you will end up with burnt valves. If you can talk to the guy you bought it from, find out why it was parked for a long period of time. It could be that this was the problem from the beginning. --- Just my .02
***Edit*** I don't see why you couldn't remove the heads with the intake still attached, I just don't understand why?*** |
#9
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The original owner died in 2004, which is why the truck has been sitting. I believe he wants to be able to pull one head without removing the manifold from the engine, probably to save work. |
#10
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Have you tried taking the rocker covers off and manually working the valves up and down to ensure they're free in the guides?
Tiresome, I know, but if it saves taking off a head it might be worth the trouble... |
#11
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time to decapitate
well, ive changed the oil,added marvel mystery oil to the gas & oil,ran a can of decarbonizer & fuel injection cleaner through a vacuum port, & drove around for app. 60 miles,im afraid i might break the head off a valve if its burnt,brought my comp. tester home today,tomorrow ill ck & if,as i suspect,5 & 7 are zero---off she comes--sure wish i could find someone who's tried it w/out removing the intake,i did it once back in the early 80's on a turbo trans am,was tedious but saved a lot of work
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#12
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Look at it this way. If you pull the intake, you can repair the plenum gasket and change the thermostat housing and water pump. Timing chain and sprockets makes sense, too.
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#13
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You won't break any heads off any valves doing what I suggested...
And if the valves that were partially open during the layoff have got rust on their stems, you can quite likely get them cleaned up enough using that method for them to polish themselves free in use. If the thing hasn't been driven too much, there's not much likelihood of the valves actually having been burned. Even if it has been driven a bit, really, because there wouldn't have been complete combustion in those cylinders because of the lack of compression and the gases would have been rushing around the whole of the valve, not just eating away at a small part. Try it... work each valve up and down in turn, with the engine spun over so that it's free to close right up. Maybe if you can, get a squirt of some kind of penetrating oil in there through the plug hole while the valve is fully open, get it up the stem if you can and work it. Like I said, it might be a bugbear to do it, but it will save a lot of work. But if you do have to pull it, go the whole hog, don't shortcut anything. |
#14
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And that last post from Dick
Was my exact intent. A little humor is good when considering short changing a proper repair. Sorry that humor was misenterpreted. One head off is like a dealer fix. Cheap and fast. I think you should do it right, instead of twice.JMHO
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#15
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now i'm lost--HELP!
o/k ran a compression ck today-150psi all the way across.i ck'd the plug wires to be sure theyre routed correctly,made sure they were firing w/spark checker,put stethescope on injectors to verify operation,& soaked it down w/carb cleaner to ck for vacuum leak. i guess i'll swap some injectors around next,unless someone has any better suggestions--c'mon mopar pro's-HELP
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#16
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No bubbles in the radiator when it's running?
If that's the case, I don't see any reason to go pulling heads at this stage. |
#17
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Can you disconnect one injector at a time and watch for rpm drop? Or one plug wire ? Maybe #7 and #5 plug wires crossfiring?
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#18
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tried it
have disconnected plug wires & injector wires,one at a time & both at the same time--5 & 7 are DEAD never fire,at idle or cruising,code sets immediately after cranking engine--no backfiring through intake just dead skip want to swap 5&7 injectors with 1&3 injectors to see if skip moves,only thing is both plugs are black & sutty when i pull them like theyre gas fouled,but at this point i feel i have to eliminate the injectors as my next step
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#19
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Pull the injector rail. Then pull 5 & 7. See if there`s rust piled up in the injector inlet screen. If so, then pull all injectors and clean and replace the rail. Those old metal rails rust from the inside and the rust usually collects on the rear of the driver`s side, clogging the injectors. Same for the 3.9 v-6.
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#20
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He's The Man!!!!
kudos crisser--you are the man! the mopar guru of the month!--stick that chest out & be proud!!--pulled the injectors this eve. & just like you said,the back 2 were PILED full of crud.cleaned them out & it runs like a charm. only thing is you said the metal rail is what rust's--mines plastic. could my metal lines from my tank be rusted? also i didn't see a fuel filter,does it have one?
thanks again-your the best--c'mon gearheads,lets hear it for crisser!!! |
#21
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Every fuel injected engine I've ever seen has a very large filter in the line just before the engine...
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#22
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The rail has been changed before. How many lines are on the rail? If it has 2 then it should have a replaceable fuel filter. If it only has 1, then the filter is part of the pump. I might run it for 2 weeks or so, and pull the injectors again to see if they are getting dirty again.
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#23
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Not anymore they don`t.
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#24
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Quote:
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#25
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Yes, the intake has to come off in order to get at the head. There's no way around it, but at least you can change the intake gaskets while you're at it because they're known to fail.
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#26
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Hurrray for Crisser, 3 cheers!
Quote:
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