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  #1  
Old 12-21-2007, 09:56 AM
drag duster drag duster is offline
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Default magnum cyl.head removal

hi guys, i have a 97 model 5.2 magnum that has burnt valves (i think) on #5 & #7 cyl.--does anyone know if its possible to remove the head w/ot removing the intake?
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  #2  
Old 12-21-2007, 11:26 AM
peg leg peg leg is offline
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Default Sure can

Dynamite! Works like a charm. Be careful of the surriunding area.
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  #3  
Old 12-21-2007, 12:22 PM
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Use new manifold bolts because they are a one time stretch. The head bolts might be too. Check with your dealer.
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Old 12-21-2007, 01:30 PM
drag duster drag duster is offline
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Default thanks

thanks dick,do you mean intake/or ex. manifold,no one has said if the head can be removed without removing intake--anyone tried it?


hey peg leg, get a life,you must be really bored--i think the comedy club has some openings
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  #5  
Old 12-21-2007, 02:07 PM
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Biggrin

Quote:
Originally Posted by drag duster View Post
thanks dick,do you mean intake/or ex. manifold,no one has said if the head can be removed without removing intake--anyone tried it?


hey peg leg, get a life,you must be really bored--i think the comedy club has some openings
I know the intake manifold bolts are a one-time fastener. Not sure about the exhaust. Your dealer should be able to tell you. Ask the parts guy.

I think peg leg answered your question. At least, I thought he did. Besides, there are too many comedians and not enough wrench pullers.

As an afterthought, are you sure it is valves or could it be holes in pistons? Does this truck have a history of pinging?
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  #6  
Old 12-21-2007, 03:42 PM
drag duster drag duster is offline
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Default thanks again

i dont know for sure its valves,but it doesnt smoke at all--just skips,i dont know any history on this truck,just bought it (or stole it for 2200.00)
from a guys family who passed away in 04,the truck has sit since,thus the valves are not seating,trying to clean them up chemically,so far w/no luck--any suggestions
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  #7  
Old 12-21-2007, 04:15 PM
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Biggrin

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Originally Posted by drag duster View Post
i dont know for sure its valves,but it doesnt smoke at all--just skips,i dont know any history on this truck,just bought it (or stole it for 2200.00)
from a guys family who passed away in 04,the truck has sit since,thus the valves are not seating,trying to clean them up chemically,so far w/no luck--any suggestions
Before you tear into it, run a compression check. It could even be a couple of lifters are gunked up and the valves are being held open.

You might run some Sea Foam through it to dislodge any carbon buildup. Most auto parts stores carry it. It will clean your combustion chambers.

It might drive itself out of the problem.
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  #8  
Old 12-21-2007, 05:39 PM
rampage_82 rampage_82 is offline
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Well a compression check will reveal if the valve's are seating, but it still won't tell you if they are burnt, or if it is stuck lifters. However if you drive it and the lifters don't release, you will end up with burnt valves. If you can talk to the guy you bought it from, find out why it was parked for a long period of time. It could be that this was the problem from the beginning. --- Just my .02

***Edit*** I don't see why you couldn't remove the heads with the intake still attached, I just don't understand why?***
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  #9  
Old 12-21-2007, 06:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rampage_82 View Post
Well a compression check will reveal if the valve's are seating, but it still won't tell you if they are burnt, or if it is stuck lifters. However if you drive it and the lifters don't release, you will end up with burnt valves. If you can talk to the guy you bought it from, find out why it was parked for a long period of time. It could be that this was the problem from the beginning. --- Just my .02

***Edit*** I don't see why you couldn't remove the heads with the intake still attached, I just don't understand why?***
A compression check will confirm if the cylinders are sealing well, which covers valves and rings. If the compression is within specs, then he can look into the ignition or fuel systems. If the compression is poor, than he can begin tear down. He suspects burnt valves because of the miss.

The original owner died in 2004, which is why the truck has been sitting.

I believe he wants to be able to pull one head without removing the manifold from the engine, probably to save work.
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  #10  
Old 12-21-2007, 10:16 PM
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Have you tried taking the rocker covers off and manually working the valves up and down to ensure they're free in the guides?

Tiresome, I know, but if it saves taking off a head it might be worth the trouble...
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  #11  
Old 12-21-2007, 10:36 PM
drag duster drag duster is offline
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Default time to decapitate

well, ive changed the oil,added marvel mystery oil to the gas & oil,ran a can of decarbonizer & fuel injection cleaner through a vacuum port, & drove around for app. 60 miles,im afraid i might break the head off a valve if its burnt,brought my comp. tester home today,tomorrow ill ck & if,as i suspect,5 & 7 are zero---off she comes--sure wish i could find someone who's tried it w/out removing the intake,i did it once back in the early 80's on a turbo trans am,was tedious but saved a lot of work
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  #12  
Old 12-21-2007, 11:01 PM
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Look at it this way. If you pull the intake, you can repair the plenum gasket and change the thermostat housing and water pump. Timing chain and sprockets makes sense, too.
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  #13  
Old 12-22-2007, 12:26 AM
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You won't break any heads off any valves doing what I suggested...

And if the valves that were partially open during the layoff have got rust on their stems, you can quite likely get them cleaned up enough using that method for them to polish themselves free in use.

If the thing hasn't been driven too much, there's not much likelihood of the valves actually having been burned. Even if it has been driven a bit, really, because there wouldn't have been complete combustion in those cylinders because of the lack of compression and the gases would have been rushing around the whole of the valve, not just eating away at a small part.

Try it... work each valve up and down in turn, with the engine spun over so that it's free to close right up. Maybe if you can, get a squirt of some kind of penetrating oil in there through the plug hole while the valve is fully open, get it up the stem if you can and work it.

Like I said, it might be a bugbear to do it, but it will save a lot of work.

But if you do have to pull it, go the whole hog, don't shortcut anything.
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  #14  
Old 12-22-2007, 11:51 AM
peg leg peg leg is offline
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Default And that last post from Dick

Was my exact intent. A little humor is good when considering short changing a proper repair. Sorry that humor was misenterpreted. One head off is like a dealer fix. Cheap and fast. I think you should do it right, instead of twice.JMHO
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  #15  
Old 12-24-2007, 07:32 PM
drag duster drag duster is offline
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Default now i'm lost--HELP!

o/k ran a compression ck today-150psi all the way across.i ck'd the plug wires to be sure theyre routed correctly,made sure they were firing w/spark checker,put stethescope on injectors to verify operation,& soaked it down w/carb cleaner to ck for vacuum leak. i guess i'll swap some injectors around next,unless someone has any better suggestions--c'mon mopar pro's-HELP
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  #16  
Old 12-24-2007, 08:01 PM
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No bubbles in the radiator when it's running?

If that's the case, I don't see any reason to go pulling heads at this stage.
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  #17  
Old 12-24-2007, 08:38 PM
aarracer aarracer is offline
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Can you disconnect one injector at a time and watch for rpm drop? Or one plug wire ? Maybe #7 and #5 plug wires crossfiring?
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  #18  
Old 12-25-2007, 10:52 AM
drag duster drag duster is offline
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Default tried it

have disconnected plug wires & injector wires,one at a time & both at the same time--5 & 7 are DEAD never fire,at idle or cruising,code sets immediately after cranking engine--no backfiring through intake just dead skip want to swap 5&7 injectors with 1&3 injectors to see if skip moves,only thing is both plugs are black & sutty when i pull them like theyre gas fouled,but at this point i feel i have to eliminate the injectors as my next step
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  #19  
Old 12-25-2007, 11:52 AM
crisser crisser is offline
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Pull the injector rail. Then pull 5 & 7. See if there`s rust piled up in the injector inlet screen. If so, then pull all injectors and clean and replace the rail. Those old metal rails rust from the inside and the rust usually collects on the rear of the driver`s side, clogging the injectors. Same for the 3.9 v-6.
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  #20  
Old 12-26-2007, 07:39 PM
drag duster drag duster is offline
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Default He's The Man!!!!

kudos crisser--you are the man! the mopar guru of the month!--stick that chest out & be proud!!--pulled the injectors this eve. & just like you said,the back 2 were PILED full of crud.cleaned them out & it runs like a charm. only thing is you said the metal rail is what rust's--mines plastic. could my metal lines from my tank be rusted? also i didn't see a fuel filter,does it have one?
thanks again-your the best--c'mon gearheads,lets hear it for crisser!!!
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  #21  
Old 12-26-2007, 07:56 PM
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Every fuel injected engine I've ever seen has a very large filter in the line just before the engine...
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  #22  
Old 12-26-2007, 08:00 PM
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The rail has been changed before. How many lines are on the rail? If it has 2 then it should have a replaceable fuel filter. If it only has 1, then the filter is part of the pump. I might run it for 2 weeks or so, and pull the injectors again to see if they are getting dirty again.
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  #23  
Old 12-26-2007, 08:02 PM
crisser crisser is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray Bell View Post
Every fuel injected engine I've ever seen has a very large filter in the line just before the engine...
Not anymore they don`t.
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  #24  
Old 12-26-2007, 08:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drag duster View Post
kudos crisser--you are the man! the mopar guru of the month!--stick that chest out & be proud!!--pulled the injectors this eve. & just like you said,the back 2 were PILED full of crud.cleaned them out & it runs like a charm. only thing is you said the metal rail is what rust's--mines plastic. could my metal lines from my tank be rusted? also i didn't see a fuel filter,does it have one?
thanks again-your the best--c'mon gearheads,lets hear it for crisser!!!
In 23 yrs. of mechanic work, iv`e had my share of $hit thrown at me. This was one of em. The dealer couldn`t even fix it. Took me about a day but i fixed it.
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  #25  
Old 12-30-2007, 06:13 AM
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Yes, the intake has to come off in order to get at the head. There's no way around it, but at least you can change the intake gaskets while you're at it because they're known to fail.
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  #26  
Old 12-31-2007, 01:54 PM
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Hurrray for Crisser, 3 cheers!

Quote:
In 23 yrs. of mechanic work, iv`e had my share of $hit thrown at me.
I didn't have half of that when I went to work for the railroad and boy-o-boy, do I hear ya! It is amazing what you get sometimes and even more so from whom!
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