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  #241  
Old 02-15-2008, 11:35 AM
sanborn sanborn is offline
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Don't want to throw water on your parade---but if a forged crank snaps---it's due to something other than oiling mods. Poor oiling can lead to failure, but usually shows up as blued cranks, rods, etc. This excess heat removes the temper(heat treatment) that then leads to failure.

But proper oiling is essential to a good, reliable street/strip/high performance engine.
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  #242  
Old 02-15-2008, 12:27 PM
clarkj clarkj is offline
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Well I don't know what caused my crank to go all of the sudden....but something sure did. I suppose it had just seen too much rough use. It was in a 12 second dart before my truck, which was used as a mud dragger, truck puller, and driver. Hard to say I guess, but it did dissapoint me, that's for sure. I will give your ideas a shot on this 340 of mine and hope things turn out for the best.
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  #243  
Old 02-18-2008, 01:03 AM
MOPAR MAN R3 MOPAR MAN R3 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanborn View Post
There are a couple of major differences in oiling a standard and an "R" block:
1. The "R" blocks have provisions for oiling at both the front and rear of the block.
2. The use of 48 degree lifter bores, in effect, rotates the lifter bores away from the cylinder walls. On a standard block, the oiling galleys(R&L) intersect the 59 degree lifter bores. With the 48 degree block, the oiling galleys DO NOT intersect the lifter bores. There is a small hole drilled from the oiling galley into each lifter bore.

Do you think you could post a photo of your W8 heads. Yes, the way you describe them, they sound like a different casting. I would like to get a photo of the intake surface, the exhaust side showing the water outlets and the deck surface.

Why am I asking for the photos? First, we have three sets of W8s, all have only two water outlets---there isn't provision for a center outlet. And none have a boss for outlets under the exhausts. And two #6 and one #8 water outlets is not enough outlet area for high speed cooling---or at least not in our experience. One #10 and two #8 outlets is marginal. It could be your heads are designed for FIVE water outlets---three out the intake side---two out the side of the head on the exhaust side. You could have some LeMans castings---which are different from regular W8s.
I will be plumbing both the front and rear of the block like
you have suggested. I will likely also install an oil cooler between the filter and the T to plumb oil to the front and rear of the block.

I am not sure if I am understanding this correctly or not. On a 59 Degree block the main oil galley plumbed to the lifter galleys, L & R, which is plumbed to each lifter? With a 48 Degree block each lifter bore is plumbed directly to the main oil galley? Do I have this right? If this is the case, you do not need a crossover tube for a 48 degree block, it wouldn't work anyways because there is no oil connection between the lifters.

I would be glad to post pictures of the heads for you but I'm going to need your help with this because my post count is not high enough. So what I am going to do is send the pictures to your e-mail, and you can post them if you like. The casting number is P4510019 and the P/N is P4876281, they are ZEUS castings.

Yes you are correct Sanborn these heads do have 5 water outlets. I recently bought the book "How to build big inch Mopar small blocks", written by Jim Szilagyi who works in the Dodge Motor sports engineering department. His book is where I got the two #6 and one #8 from, not considering the extra two outlets I have, they were never mentioned. I am wondering, are you using just striate water in your cooling system? The reason I'm asking is the book talked about using Evans NPG+, which boils at 375° F. Basically the coolant is not mixed with water it's put in the engine right out of the jug, AFTER throughly flushing out any other water based coolants. The coolant pretty much eliminates air pockets and pump cavitiation, it also protects the water jacket from corrosion and scale. I know this because this coolant was used in some of the aircraft engines I used to worked on. There is only on real down side, and that is if you don't have a tight cooling system your going to have leaks. If you were to switch back to your original coolant the leaks will disappear. Here is a link if you or other's would like more information
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  #244  
Old 02-18-2008, 10:33 AM
MOPAR MAN R3 MOPAR MAN R3 is offline
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oops forgot the link...

.evanscooling.com/html/npgPls.htm
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  #245  
Old 02-18-2008, 12:31 PM
sanborn sanborn is offline
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You are correct---with the 48 degree block, you do not need the galley crossover----provided the lifter bores are good. The front/rear feed supplies enough oil to the front main to feed left galley as well.

I am aware of coolants that raise the boiling point quite high. But, I submit that raising the boiling higher is fine under very controlled circumstances---but under race conditions rarely works well. That's the reason most racers stick with water/coolant mixtures. And the lower boiling point requires more flow to properly cool the engine. Thus, my recommendation for larger coolant fittings.

You still need to know which cylinder heads you have. If you do have the LeMans heads---standard W8 head parts may not interchange. I know the valve angles are different, the valve covers are different even from the standard W8---what I don't know is---do they use the same valves?---the same rockers?---rocker stands?---what about intake manifold?---As you can tell I don't know anything about the LeMans heads---and those are questions I have.
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  #246  
Old 02-18-2008, 11:51 PM
MOPAR MAN R3 MOPAR MAN R3 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanborn View Post
You are correct---with the 48 degree block, you do not need the galley crossover----provided the lifter bores are good. The front/rear feed supplies enough oil to the front main to feed left galley as well.

I am aware of coolants that raise the boiling point quite high. But, I submit that raising the boiling higher is fine under very controlled circumstances---but under race conditions rarely works well. That's the reason most racers stick with water/coolant mixtures. And the lower boiling point requires more flow to properly cool the engine. Thus, my recommendation for larger coolant fittings.

You still need to know which cylinder heads you have. If you do have the LeMans heads---standard W8 head parts may not interchange. I know the valve angles are different, the valve covers are different even from the standard W8---what I don't know is---do they use the same valves?---the same rockers?---rocker stands?---what about intake manifold?---As you can tell I don't know anything about the LeMans heads---and those are questions I have.
Thanks again for the information... You stated earlier that, “One #10 and two #8 outlets is marginal”, and that's for a normally aspirated application. What size would you suggest for my supercharged application. We both know I am going to be making a lot of heat, and to me in my mind having those 2 extra coolant outlets is an asset. My issue is how to plumb 10 coolant outlets! So my thinking is I am going to have to plumb all the 3 intake side outlaws together, and then plumb the 2 exhaust side coolant outlets together. I can work with four outlets in total, CSR makes a thermostat manifold for that. Now here comes my question, and I will try and explain my thoughts the best I can. I am thinking about running a solid larger primary line down the length of the head, then for the 3 coolant outlets branch off 3 secondary lines from the primary coolant line with the center line being larger than the to outer lines... make any sense? I would do the same kind of thing with the exhaust side outlets only in this case there would be 2 secondary lines. At the end of the 4 primary coolant lines there would be a male AN fittings that can attach to a hose that leads to the coolant manifold/thermostat housing. My question is how large do I make the primary lines on both the intake side and the exhaust side, and how large do I make the secondary lines.

But that I believe comes down to another problem, what were these heads for. I was originally told that these heads are late production W8's originally intended for oval track, craftsman truck I believe. Did you get my pictures ok? Here is some parts of an article written by Ryan on Shady Dells website.

"In 2000 a second run of W8 castings were made, and this time the foundry was changed to the Zeus foundry rather than the old standby of Alcoa Aluminium. A few new changes were added including extra water line outlets near the deck on the front face of the heads, and these heads have a 2000 casting date cast into them with slightly different MOPAR logos. (The logo is smaller)"

"First off, there are VERY limited amounts of 9 degree W8s that were cast/machined for use in Pro Stock truck, and NHRA Competition eliminator. Before these heads ever really hit the P/S scene"

Now I have another question... if my chambers are not machined and all I have is a bare casting... what are my limits on valve angle... there have been some 9,13,15 degree heads....??? I know my heads are late production... and the numbers suggest oval track heads and they were limited to 15 degrees, but does that mean I have to machine them to that valve angl
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  #247  
Old 02-19-2008, 01:40 AM
sanborn sanborn is offline
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I received your photos. I have asked for an additonal photo. Check your e-mail.

Yes, you definitely have a much later set of heads. If you notice the three coolant outlets on each head, they have a pair of tapped holes on each side of the coolant outlet. Those holes are for a coolant manifold. Yes, there was a coolant manifold that carried coolant to the front of the engine for a #16 outlet. Finding a factory coolant manifold may be difficult---but definitely can be fabricated. I would use a coolant manifold.

Looking at the location of the side coolant outlets---I can't determine what benefit they are. They are not in the best location to help cool the valve seats. I just don't know what to recommend.

I think we need to determine exactly what these heads are before worrying about valve angle. Nascar mandated the 15 degree angle. The heads can be cut for angles as flat as 9 degrees. I lean toward the 15 degree angle strictly for availability of parts.

I think you need to send the photos to Ryan at Shady Dell. See if he can add information as to what they are. He has seen more W8s than I. There is one other W8 head that I was told about---but never saw. Mopar presented to Nascar a raised runner W8 in about 1992. It was presented for truck use only and intended to ease the burden on the factory to produce all the R5/P7 parts needed to supply truck, Busch and cup engine builders in such a short time. Nascar turned them down---wanted the R5/P7 engine for all Nascar competition. That could be the head you have as well.

Charles
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  #248  
Old 02-19-2008, 05:21 PM
MOPAR MAN R3 MOPAR MAN R3 is offline
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Yes I did notice the 3 pairs of taped holes on each cylinder head, that was one of the first things I noticed, along with the 2 large exhaust side outlets. Most of the W8's I have seen do not have the tapped holes on either side of the outlets, instead they have taped coolant outlets themselves... easier I think. The outlets I have require a bolt on flange. We are thinking the same thing with regards to a coolant manifold, although I have no idea where I could find one or who could fabricate one for me... but I was thinking that was the best rout as well. When you say "#16 outlet"... I assume that is per side? I will see if Ryan will respond to my e-mails... long story. If I hear from him I will post his response.
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  #249  
Old 02-19-2008, 06:52 PM
sanborn sanborn is offline
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I can tell you a little about those "tapped" outlets. When the Mopar engines first appeared on the Nascar truck scene(Arrington heads), they did not have the tapped outlets---they fed through a traditional water neck---although it was a fabricated water neck. Well, the engines had heating problems caused by hot spots. Nascar let the Mopars use braided hoses from tapped outlets in the front and back of the heads---and eliminate the water necks. This was a special consideration for the Mopars ONLY! Ford and GM had to use the standard, single water neck. They let them get by with this for about three years---until finally Nascar said they had to use a standard, single water neck too! And that is when the water manifolds appeared on the Mopars.

And yes, I would use a #16 hose for each side OR if you want to bring it to a single outlet, use a #20 hose for both sides.

Let me know what Ryan says!
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  #250  
Old 02-19-2008, 10:26 PM
MOPAR MAN R3 MOPAR MAN R3 is offline
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I had heard that the W8's could not be used for racing anymore because of a "rule change", but no one had told me what that rule change was. Now I know.

It doesn't make sense to me to take two #16 hoses and shove all that flow down a single #20. What do you think if I run 2 separate hoses to each side of the rad. I could install a one way in-line thermostat housing in each line. Each thermostat would have a #6 bypass line to keep the coolant circulating. There would be a single #20 on the bottom of the rad that would supply the CSR electric pump with coolant. The electric pump would be modified so the pump would supply coolant to both sides of the block via two #16 hoses. Yes I would have to have a custom rad made... everything else has to be custom... might at well keep it going.

I have sent all the pictures I sent you to Ryan... will have to see what he say's. I will for sure let you know.
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  #251  
Old 02-20-2008, 01:48 AM
sanborn sanborn is offline
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By all means, you can supply the radiator with two separate #16 lines. A single #20 line will flow what two #16 lines will flow---if you wanted to tie the two #16 lines to one #20 line.

Now, before you ask---a lot of race engines use only one #16 line to the radiator. This seems to work on engines that maintain high RPM. For some reason, we have had better cooling success using a #16 for each side when running the engine at low RPM---like on the street.
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  #252  
Old 02-20-2008, 09:11 PM
MOPAR MAN R3 MOPAR MAN R3 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanborn View Post
By all means, you can supply the radiator with two separate #16 lines. A single #20 line will flow what two #16 lines will flow---if you wanted to tie the two #16 lines to one #20 line.

Now, before you ask---a lot of race engines use only one #16 line to the radiator. This seems to work on engines that maintain high RPM. For some reason, we have had better cooling success using a #16 for each side when running the engine at low RPM---like on the street.
You are doing well at predicting my questions. One question I do have though is if you were to have duel #16 lines... where would you mount the coolant temp probe?

What would you suggest for an oil cooler... should I use a racing cooler like what Peterson Fluid Systems sells or should I use an air/water type cooler?

I have not heard back from Ryan yet... would think it might take him a few day's at least.
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  #253  
Old 02-21-2008, 01:34 AM
sanborn sanborn is offline
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Just a suggestion---why not use a temp gauge on each side? It sure would help to spot a problem in a cylinder!

Yes, use a cooler! The type is up to you. I personally like the coolers built in the radiator---and some like the radiator cooler /air cooler combination. Remember horsepower generates heat and supercharged engines generates lots of heat. And oil breaks down under extreme heat.
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  #254  
Old 02-22-2008, 01:32 AM
MOPAR MAN R3 MOPAR MAN R3 is offline
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I was kinda thinking along the same lines... it would be beneficial for trouble shooting to have duel water temp gauges. In the event of a high water temp indication it would defiantly help narrow down which bank of cylinders was having issues.

Just reading on Peterson's website, and I am not sure if it is a general rule but none of there high quality air/oil coolers are recommended for applications over 550HP. For applications over 550HP they recommend water/oil because it offers a cooling increase of between 40-50% over air/oil. This got me thinking... If the cooling system of a race engine used in a street application needs 2 #16 lines into the rad to keep cool... why? There are a couple reasons why I think that may be. One reason is there are no traffic lights on race tracks, most of the time... hopfully... you're going full bore with lots of air flowing through the rad. Another thing I though of is with circle track engines they have belt driven coolant pumps, and at lower RPM there is not as much coolant being circulated through the engine. In the case of a traffic lights this is where I would think things would start to heat up, city driving would be another one. I am planning on using an electric coolant pump so I am sure that will help a bit. Now with the oil cooler I was thinking alright if there is an issue with coolant temp how is the oil temp going to be affected. I would like to maintain as steady of an oil temperature as I can, and I think the best way to do this is with an water/oil cooler because with an electric coolant pump it makes no difference if the vehicle is moving or not. Another nice thing about water/oil coolers is they don't care where there mounted. I am already going have a giant size transmission cooler in front of the rad so my space is limited in that area. Am I on the right track??

Oil does brake down under extreme heat and I have seen this. This is one of the reasons why I am going to be using synthetic oil, it does not brake down as easily, and it also has better wear characteristics. Not that I am planning on getting the engine hotter that I would with regular oil, but I like that margin of safety just encase. The one down side with synthetic oils is they do not like leaded fuel... so no leaded racing fuel for me at the track.
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  #255  
Old 02-22-2008, 04:38 PM
sanborn sanborn is offline
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Most of your real serious oil coolers are Fluidyne or Modine---and the are several hundred $$$. Don't buy a used one unless you can find out the history of it. Nascar teams sell the coolers after any engine mishap---because you can't clean the coolers out---the junk stays in the cooler---and you don't want junk in the cooler.

I would recommend a combination of two oil coolers; first the water/oil cooler feeding to a air/oil cooler. The easiest place for a water/oil cooler is in the bottom tank of the radiator.
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  #256  
Old 02-23-2008, 12:10 AM
MOPAR MAN R3 MOPAR MAN R3 is offline
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I have not heard of either of these companies till you mentioned them, Fluidyne even make a valve spring oil cooler... had not heard of that before either... The companies I have looked into heavily are C&R Racing Inc. and Peterson Fluid Systems. You can check them out if you like... actually I would like your oppinion on there products. I do like the Fluidyne coolers... I wasn't to impressed with the Modine coolers, mainly because when I googled them the first things I turned up were peoples complaints.

The coolers that you have mentioned and most others I have seen for racing are almost identical in design to the coolers used in small piston engined aircraft. There is a certified components shop that these oil cooler can be sent to for overhaul. The process they use flushes them completely out, there is not many shops that can do this, infact right now I can only think of one. But for me an overhauled cooler is just not an option because pretty much everything needs to be custom for it to function properly.


I wouldn't have thought of running both an air/water and air/air cooler. I take it that the water/air cooler you are speeking of is an integral part of the rad... kind of like how most transmission coolers are installed in factory rads? Having the cooler at the bottom of the rad is the coolest point... but would this warm the coolant going into the engine significantly?

Quote:
Originally Posted by sanborn View Post
Most of your real serious oil coolers are Fluidyne or Modine---and the are several hundred $$$. Don't buy a used one unless you can find out the history of it. Nascar teams sell the coolers after any engine mishap---because you can't clean the coolers out---the junk stays in the cooler---and you don't want junk in the cooler.

I would recommend a combination of two oil coolers; first the water/oil cooler feeding to a air/oil cooler. The easiest place for a water/oil cooler is in the bottom tank of the radiator.
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  #257  
Old 02-24-2008, 10:14 AM
MOPAR MAN R3 MOPAR MAN R3 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MOPAR MAN R3 View Post
I have not heard of either of these companies till you mentioned them, Fluidyne even make a valve spring oil cooler... had not heard of that before either... The companies I have looked into heavily are C&R Racing Inc. and Peterson Fluid Systems. You can check them out if you like... actually I would like your opinion on there products. I do like the Fluidyne coolers... I wasn't to impressed with the Modine coolers, mainly because when I googled them the first things I turned up were peoples complaints.

The coolers that you have mentioned and most others I have seen for racing are almost identical in design to the coolers used in small piston engined aircraft. There is a certified components shop that these oil cooler can be sent to for overhaul. The process they use flushes them completely out, there is not many shops that can do this, in-fact right now I can only think of one. But for me an overhauled cooler is just not an option because pretty much everything needs to be custom for it to function properly.


I wouldn't have thought of running both an air/water and air/air cooler. I take it that the water/air cooler you are speaking of is an integral part of the rad... kind of like how most transmission coolers are installed in factory rads? Having the cooler at the bottom of the rad is the coolest point... but would this warm the coolant going into the engine significantly?
It took me a while to remember the name of the company but here is a link to the company that may be able to completely overhaul your oil coolers. I thought I would offer this information to help people save some money if possible. I did not say this to say you were wrong Sanborn and I hope you haven't taken it that way, if you have I apologize. I just offered this information to help people out like you are helping me. The company may not even want to touch automotive coolers... to be honest I have never tried, but I thought it might be a viable option if "Ultimate/Scott" is willing. You will have to add the www at the beginning of the Internet address.

.aerorecip.com/ultimate.php
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  #258  
Old 02-24-2008, 11:18 AM
MOPAR MAN R3 MOPAR MAN R3 is offline
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Are these Oberg filters safe for the street, I was looking at something similar because I like the ability to easily check the screen. Guess it comes from my aircraft maintenance background. If so what micron size filter do you recommend? Another thing I have not seen mentioned is oil analysis, I don't know if this is something that is done on race engines or not. It's cheep insurance in my oppinion... under $15.00 per test sample and it often finds problems before they show up in the filter. Just a thought.
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  #259  
Old 02-26-2008, 01:39 AM
sanborn sanborn is offline
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All of your high RPM race engines use valve spring coolers. Simply, they send a small stream of cooled oil onto each valve spring. Valve springs get very hot at high RPM and heat causes the springs to loose temper quickly. The coolers keep down the spring temp.

I like either Oberg or System 1 filters for the street. Both can be disassembled to check for "bad stuff". Both brands have several different filter screens(break in, a couple different micron screen sizes).

Many race teams do have oil tested; but the science of engine building is so finite now, testing is usually not beneficial to most teams(frequent oil changes). But, in many applications it is beneficial.

There are several companies that offer oil coolers. C&R, Peterson, Fluidyne and Modine have all been around for years---I wouldn't worry about any of them.
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  #260  
Old 02-28-2008, 03:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanborn View Post
All of your high RPM race engines use valve spring coolers. Simply, they send a small stream of cooled oil onto each valve spring. Valve springs get very hot at high RPM and heat causes the springs to loose temper quickly. The coolers keep down the spring temp.

I like either Oberg or System 1 filters for the street. Both can be disassembled to check for "bad stuff". Both brands have several different filter screens(break in, a couple different micron screen sizes).

Many race teams do have oil tested; but the science of engine building is so finite now, testing is usually not beneficial to most teams(frequent oil changes). But, in many applications it is beneficial.

There are several companies that offer oil coolers. C&R, Peterson, Fluidyne and Modine have all been around for years---I wouldn't worry about any of them.
Alright I understand... when I first saw the words valve spring "cooler" I immediately thought of the rad type cooler... but as you have mentioned before the small stream of oil that spray's the springs acts as a cooler. In my case I will be using the rockers with spring oilers, instead of spray bars.

For the oil filter, Oberg has 28, 60, or 115 micron screens, which one would you choose? I have also looked at Pure Power remote oil filter kits and they look nice as well. I wasn't sure if they might be better for the street seeing as there was more surface area in the filters, but I do like the Obergs as a flat surface is much easier to inspect, and they defiantly have less restriction... in my opinion.

I have not heard back from Ryan as of yet... so I am planning on calling him tomorrow. I will post what I learn.

I have been working on a oil/cooling system drawing... a lot of things are unknown at this point because of the heads, but I have good start on it. Would it be alright if I sent it to you Sanborn so you could check it over for me... see if I have missed anything, or there might be some additional considerations or components I might want to take into account or add? Thanks again.
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  #261  
Old 03-03-2008, 12:08 AM
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Sorry I haven't been around lately. The Oberg 115 micron screen is used for engine break in only! And don't rev it above 3000 at that. The screen is so fine, the oil just can't flow.

Either of the two other screens would be OK for lower RPM work(up to 7000). Above 7000, use the 28 micron screen. Race filters like Oberg do not have a bypass valve like standard filters do. Keep that in mind!
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  #262  
Old 03-03-2008, 01:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanborn View Post
Sorry I haven't been around lately. The Oberg 115 micron screen is used for engine break in only! And don't rev it above 3000 at that. The screen is so fine, the oil just can't flow.

Either of the two other screens would be OK for lower RPM work(up to 7000). Above 7000, use the 28 micron screen. Race filters like Oberg do not have a bypass valve like standard filters do. Keep that in mind!
It's alright... I figured you might be getting sick of all my questions... or atleast needed a brake from them. lol

I was wondering about that, I will likely use a Pure Power remote kit in that case... I should really have a bypass just incase. The Pure Power kit has a bypass and has a lot more filter surface area. The filter for this kit is 25 microns, and flows 20 GA per min.

I am just about done my drawing. The only thing that is really uncertain is the heads, hopfully I will have an answer for that soon. Would it be alright if I e-mailed my drawing to you... see if you have any additional thoughts or advice? Thanks again for all your help, I have learned a lot.
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  #263  
Old 03-03-2008, 11:12 AM
sanborn sanborn is offline
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e-mail me at anytime!
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  #264  
Old 03-06-2008, 11:41 PM
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Quote:
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e-mail me at anytime!
Did you happen to get my e-mail... no rush... just wanted to make sure you got them alright. Thanks.
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  #265  
Old 03-16-2008, 07:45 PM
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Sanborn I have been working on this moter for the boat an have a couple of questons. I have desided to feed it oil from both ends. I see you plumb in right by the pressure line an run a tube back across the top of the valley. Is there any reason I can not plumb into the front of the block instead? On my set up I run the water out of the jet pump in the block an out. I have a valve to control the amount an temp of the water. I was trying to come up with a oil cooler. Have you got any ideas?
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Old 03-16-2008, 11:03 PM
sanborn sanborn is offline
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dayrl, if you are thinking about drill/tapping in the front of the main oiling galley and then running the line to a bulkhead fitting at the front of the block-----don't see why that won't work as long as there is space. Just keep in mind that the front oiling fitting is a secondary fitting. On a standard block, the main oiling must always be in the back of the block.
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Old 04-26-2008, 11:40 PM
daryl2399 daryl2399 is offline
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Sanborn I got all the oil mods done an desided to feed both ways. Asembeling I ran into another problem I am hopeing you might be able to shed some light on. The rockers are hitting the springs. Do they make a rocker set up other than harlon sharp that might clear? Have you ever had this problem before? Is the answer smaller valve springs? I miced the springs an they came out at 1.565. Looks like I need about 1/8 inch to be safe. Any ideas?
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Old 04-27-2008, 12:38 PM
sanborn sanborn is offline
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The valve springs are very large---but not much larger than normal. I suspect the problem is NOT spring diameter.

Let's look at some other areas:

1. What is your installed spring height?
2. Did you use a bunch of spring shims under the springs?
3. Can you use different retainer locks to move the retainer down in relation to the valve tip?
4. Can you use different retainers to give more rocker clearance?
5. Are your valves the correct length?

A photo of the spring /rocker relationship would be very helpful!
Charles
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Old 04-27-2008, 11:07 PM
daryl2399 daryl2399 is offline
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I do not have a camera for the computor or I would send some pictures. They are hitting right in the horseshoe. Never have had this problem before but have only done small block chevs up till now. A guy in Boise do the heads for me because I have not got that brave yet. Measured the height an got 1 an 15/16. There are not any shims. I am going to talk to the guy who does heads for me an see if there is something I can do with the retainers. Is it possible to releave the rockers a little or are they strong enough? Know your thinking if I set it a little closer to the computar you will be able to see it. Got to go to town Tomorrow so I will try to borrow a camera. THANKS for your help
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Old 05-11-2008, 03:15 PM
rettek30 rettek30 is offline
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I have read your thread with great interest and was hoping to get some advice. I race in NHRA SuperStock.I run a 93 shadow with a 1985 dodge 318.I am the Current national record holder in GT/GA 9.87@133.91. The car weighs about 3200#. I shift at 7500 and 7700 and usually run through the traps at about 8600 to 9000 depending on track and tuneup.The motor currently has a cast crank,manley rods, std fed mogul pump,roller cam,308 heads,t&d rockers oiled through the pushrods,quadrajet ,etc.My problem is I keep losing rod bearings. So far I have caught them before major damage.I plan on doing most of the mods you have outlined.I like your idea of oiling from the front but my rules will not allow external oil lines.I run an R3 block currently so I was think about taping into the oil gallery between the #8 and #6 lifters and running a line to the front from there and drilling into the front port of the block all in the valley of course.My rules have limited my choices of rods so I have chosen a manley rod that takes the large journal sb chevy bearing. Do you have any recommendations on rod bearings? I was thinking of going with a V bearing but havent decided yet. Any help is greatly appreciated. I need to make this thing reliable so I can focus on winning races again.Thank Ken
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