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#1
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Hey everyone!
It's been a long winter and it's finally time to get those mopars out and kick some but!!!!! I have a question. I just removed my intake manifold 'cus I've been pullind only about 4" of murcury at idle. When I did I noticed that the top 1/2 of my intake gasket was sealing and the bottom 1/2 was not and was then sucking in air and oil from the valley. I have a 360 and was wondering if anyone had ideas of how to fix this melady. Will just silicone work!?! I've read other posts and PRO has said in the past that the permatex "Right Stuff" works great on intakes I went and bought some will this work on the ports too? I don't really want to suck some gasket compound into my engine if ya know what I mean. Any input on how to seal or check how she's sealing (machinests blue!?!) when I'm reassembling her would be great. Thankx and 'Mopar to ya! |
#2
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I have used RTV on intake gaskets with good results.
Were you getting water in the oil? If so, you may have a problem that requires surfacing the heads or intake so the surfaces of the intake and head are closer to parallel. Billy |
#3
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Billydelrio
No water leaking into engine. How much have you run the engine since you have done this? Thankx for the input! |
#4
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360 Dart
it sounds like the heads have been cut without the intake side being cut to match so the intake face angles are not lined up properly. I would either pull the heads and have the intake side resurfaced then use RTV or have the intake itself resurfaced but this causes more problems later if you change heads. Christian |
#5
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I think Fel-Pro sells the "Print-o-seal" intake gaskets for the smallblock Mopar.
These gaskets come with a formed bead of sealer around the ports. This may solve the problem without having to mill the intake or heads? |
#6
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I had the same problem with my 360 and Offy intake. It was the MP heat riser block offs. It was sucking oil big time. dry fit it w/o gaskets and see if the bolt holes have a problem lining up. Don't use the cork end gaskets just rtv. I think Mr. Gasket makes a gasket with the red formed bead of sealer on them. If you do use silicone it should be so thin a layer you can see through it. Good luck!
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#7
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I think those print-o-seal gaskets only have the seal on one side, I would torque some new ones down dry and then remove and check the pattern. This would tell you if you were clamping on the lower portion. The thick black ones are pretty good at showing compression.
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#8
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Well,
I removed my heads and found them to be warped! Luckily I have a set of freshly ported/assembled heads laying around that I am going to install. I used only a 12" straight edge and there were spots on one head that were at least 10 thou. off of being flush (I wouldn't go to a thicker feeler gauge I didn't want to know any more ). My head gaskets were'nt even compressed on both heads on the low end (closest to the exhaust ports) of the heads I guess that would explain the intake not mating with the heads. Have any of you ever seen heads that warped and still not leak anything!?! there was a little oil under the heads on the outside of the block though no water loss luckily! |
#9
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Nice detective work what do you think warped the heads?
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#10
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What warped my heads.... hummmmm.
The biggest mistake that I made when I rebuilt the engine that these heads were originally on is that I went to el cheep-o engine builder. He must not have checked the heads since these heads had maybe 200 miles on them. I reassembled everything this past weekend and tonite I'll fire her up! When I reassembled it I used machinists blue on the ports and torqued everything down then disassembled everything and everything lined up perfect! I think the problem is solved I'll update ya tomorrow. |
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