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  #31  
Old 04-19-2004, 04:03 PM
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MoparMarcIdaho MoparMarcIdaho is offline
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Lightbulb yo goose

dont get the almost a mopar thing,used to have a 68 ambastarder myself,290 2 barrel with a piece of shit borg warner T30 trans,needed to carry a spare trans in the trunk almost,what chrysler parts do those have on them?And actually amc motors arnt too bad,dont have enough power to hurt themselves.
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  #32  
Old 04-19-2004, 06:17 PM
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CaseDawg;

What are you doing? A /6 or a 318. Make up your mind.
On the rear end, we all told you if you beef up an engine, you'll want the 8-1/4 min. size rear. Go and use your smaller rear, and when it blows up, remember, we told you to use a different rear and the mess and pain in the ass you'll have will be your own fault.
So don't come crying here and asking how to replace it.
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  #33  
Old 04-19-2004, 07:35 PM
CaseDawg CaseDawg is offline
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i know i know. but if i don't have to swap out the /6 to get the performance that i want, then i don't want to spend the $500+ to put the 318 in it. i'm not going to be burning out all the time with it, and i don't race or anything so there isn't going to be that much stress on it. i want to have some power available, but it's not going to be in use all the time because i don't want to spend that much on gas, tickets, and a blown out rear end. if i really need to, i'll put the 8.25 in it. what i'd really like to know is with these parts am i going to be making enough HP to really kill the rear end:header, 2 or 4bbl, shift kit, maybe a bit more compression, and a cam. i'm not talk'n radical upgrades, mostly just bolt ons. i'm sorry if i'm switching back and forth from slant to 318 topics, i just don't want to have to spend that much money if i don't have to. i junior in high school isn't exactly roll'n in the dough! this car is going to be a daily driver so my main goal is good gas mileage and an occational kick in the pants acceleration. thanks again for your help. i know i've been a bit redundant in my questioning, i just want to do the right thing.


casey
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  #34  
Old 04-19-2004, 07:43 PM
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Not sure about the *right * thing, but putting in a different rear is NOT the wrong thing. My 7" rear end lasted 3 years beating the hell out of it. Horrible abuse. Next 7 I had died the instant i put traction bars on the car.

Go with the better rears, because you WILL one day anyhow
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  #35  
Old 04-19-2004, 10:04 PM
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a couple of guys said to lean out your carb, that is an invitation for cracked heads. been there, done that.
getting performance AND good gas mileage is a lot easier with the 318 than the /6, but you will spend a lot of money doing the conversion, and that money could be better spent on the gasoline.
If you really want to fix up a 318, save your money up and buy a similar car that already has one in it. Make sure it comes with the 8.25, not the 7.25. Fix it up the way you want it, then sell the one with the /6.
I have had both, could never get good mileage out of the /6.
My 318 got 22MPG in a 74 Dart, 2.7 gears, auto trans, 360-2 intake and carb, 340 ex. manifolds, dual stock size pipes, recurved distributor for quicker total advance. It would do 108 MPH before valve float, and started great even in cold winters.
Never tried to drag race it, so I can't say anything about how quick it may have been. If you want some of that, I advise the 2.9 rear gears, typical of Mopar M body cop cars. I am running one in my 79 volare wagon which used to have 2.4 gears. Around town mileage stayed the same, have no idea what freeway mileage is, this car never goes there.
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  #36  
Old 04-19-2004, 11:26 PM
CaseDawg CaseDawg is offline
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gosh dang-it!!! every time i start leaning either towards the /6 or the 318, someone has to go and say something that makes me start think'n about my decision! ok, flat out, what kind of gas mileage can i get with the bolt on upgrades? if i have to, i will commit to the total overhaul of the car, but i'd like to be able to get some poop out of the engine and drive train in it before i start saving the money for it. maybe i'll start a new thread for people to tell me what slant 6 car they had and what upgrades it had and what mileage they got out of it.


casey
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  #37  
Old 04-20-2004, 12:45 AM
Bill55AZ Bill55AZ is offline
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IF you are going to stick with the /6, the 2BBL carb that was used in later cars is a help performance wise. You will need the intake manifold, all the linkages for throttle, kickdown, choke system, etc.
Recurve the distributor by adding a lighter spring in place of the fat one, it allows total timing to come in sooner. There is a Mopar Performance part number for the recurve kit, but I can't find where I stored it right now.
Go one size larger on your exhaust pipe, dump the resonator (if you have one) in favor of a straight pipe.
Dump the 2.7 in favor of a 2.9 even if you have to stay with the 7.25 axle. You get a bit more off line performance and get up to RPM quicker which helps your city gas mileage.
If you get the 8.25, get the driveshaft as well, and make sure it comes from a same wheelbase car with the /6, as the nose on the 8.25 is a bit longer than the 7.25. Good luck finding a straight drive shaft in a junk yard, they usually get bent with the yard forklift.
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  #38  
Old 04-20-2004, 10:17 AM
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CaseDawg;

Would you take the advice of the been there done that crowd. Good.
Swap in the 318 & a 904 tranny with a 8-1/4 rear. You'll not regret it when it's complete. Follow the advice I gave you. Just bolt ons and no cam change.
The car will be dead stock reliable with good strong take offs and passing power while getting very good mileage.
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  #39  
Old 04-20-2004, 10:44 AM
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All of us have been there and done that. I've put a Hemi in place of a six cylinder, a small block in place of a six cylinder, a few big blocks in place of small blocks and replaced a couple of B's with RB's. Swaps can be relatively easy, or a royal pain. No matter how simple you think it will be, you will discover that you always need one more part that requires another junk yard search and an afternoon wasted.

Unless you are knowledgable, do what Bill said and trade cars. It will be far less expensive than a swap of any kind and you will get the whole package. If you swap, I guarantee you will go the cheap way and change only the engine, transmission and drive shaft. You'll try to get by with the tiny brakes and weak rear end and you'll find yourself stranded somewhere...hopefully not piled into a tree because your brakes couldn't handle the extra weight and performance.
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  #40  
Old 04-21-2004, 12:32 AM
CaseDawg CaseDawg is offline
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well, that sounds tempting, but i don't know if i can find a car that could replace the quality of this one. it has very good interior(almost mint), factory paint that still looks good accept worn a bit on the top edges, and the original vinyl top that only has a little bit of surface rust by the rear window. that is way better than any of the other cars i've seen for that price. get this $2000!!!! you've gotta love that! just for kicks, what kind of work would it take to put a 360 in it? more suspention and drivetrain upgrades? thanks, i guess i have a lot to think about.


casey
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  #41  
Old 04-22-2004, 01:10 AM
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Casedawg

Well you've suceeded in going around the full circle and back again. Now nobody knows what your looking for? You have been given some good advise here and have succesfuly confused everyone here as to what it is your trying to accomplish. As I stated previously, if your wanting some one to step up to the plate and state that if you do xxxxxxx you will get yyyyyy performance with zzzzzzz gas mileage you are niave. First let me explain why before you take offence.

First no one here knows your driving habits. Milleage is dependent upon the respect of the gas pedal. If you do not respect your friend then you will suffer the consequenses of low mileage. For some one to state that they got xxxx mileage out of a 540 cubic inch motor pushing 8000 hp with a yyyy gear doesn't mean that YOU will get the same result. No one here can guarantee that their combination under the influence of your foot will get the same result. There has been some very good advice given to you here and it seems that you want guarantees. THIS IS NOT GOING TO HAPPEN. NOBODY CAN GIVE YOU DEFINITE GAS MILEAGE VERUSIS HORSEPOWER RESULTS BECAUSE ITS YOUR FOOT CONTROLLING THE RESULTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Here is a basic course on mileage versis horsepower. The more hosepower and torque you have to move a certain mass of weight the less effort it takes to maintain as balanced speed and the less effort it takes to get to a specific speed. This is all relative to the amount of time taken to reach the balanced speed. If you want to reach said speed in 1 sec then the amount of effort to reach this goal will be substantial. If you want to reach said speed in 5 sec then the amount of effort is expontiallly less and therefore gas mileage will be greater.

If your after the best bang for your buck and don't want to spend any money then fine tune your 6. Change plug heat range, fine tune existing carb, upgrade exhaust system. If your looking for something more then upgrade the intake manifold and carb, ignition system, plugs, exhaust system, suspension system and torque convertor. If you want seat of the pants performance then convert to the 8 with the minimum amount of upgrades. If you want real performance the upgrade to the 8 with the above modifications. None of the above gaurantee you any mileage results as this is your foot not mine or anybody elses.

You will have to way out the cost of every modification and see which one best suits your goals and budget. There is no one here that can definitively give you an answer to your question as we can not guess what its is that you want to achieve. So far your posts have asked to have your cake and eat it to with out sharing it with anyone else. It seems that you want some one to step up to the plate and lay out a plan which will give you what you want which is a mystery to everyone here. You have been given some good advise on both of your posts and it seems that when your questions get answered you want to change your original goal to something else and want some one to give you an etched in stone difinitive answer. THIS IS NOT GOING TO HAPPEN.

Now I suggest that you take all the information from both of your posts and sit down and analyze what it is that you really want and what can you really afford. This will lead you to the correct direction of modifications that will satisfy your present needs and budget and then you can proceed from there to better and bigger things. Sit Down and Figure Out What YOU CAN afford and WHAT YOU WANT.
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  #42  
Old 04-22-2004, 02:16 PM
CaseDawg CaseDawg is offline
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i'm sorry for switching back and forth so much. i just don't really know what i'm doing so i want to have all my ducks in a row before i start anything. i am well aware that it's all in the foot for the gas mileage. i've added up all the expenses for both the slant and the V8. it comes out to about $1500-1800 for the slant and $2000-2200 for the V8. that's quite i bit different. i guess it will depend on what i want to do ultimately with the car. i guess for what i what to do, the slant would be the most economical. i'm not a racer and i'm not a very aggressive drive, so the slant would probably suit me fine. if i went with the six, would you guys be able to help me with any issues that arise performance wise? you know parts and stuff, give me a few recommendations. dont think that i don't apprciate all of your help, cause i do. i don't really know what i'm doing yet.


casey
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  #43  
Old 04-22-2004, 03:15 PM
72Challenger 72Challenger is offline
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Default Don't let it get to you

Hey Case,

It's okay to not be sure yet what you want. You're doing the right thing by exploring all your options before you start spending money. But aDjUSTER is right, you do need to come up with a final plan before you actually start to work. It gets real expensive to change your mind after you're half-way through. Even more frustrating is to get completely finished and find out you don't like what you've ended up with! (I know this from hard experience )

Take your time, consider what you want the car to be like in a few years (like after you're out of school. Going to college? You won't have much of a car budget then either, so save your pennies!) You can always build the car one way for now and redo it later, just remember it will cost more in the long run that way. BUT, you may well be in a better position to afford the expensive changes once you're working full time.

We'll be here when you get ready to start. Good luck!
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  #44  
Old 04-22-2004, 07:25 PM
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No doubt, make a plan and stick to it!
The price difference? If your worried about 400-600 dollors, sell the car and get a bike.
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  #45  
Old 04-25-2004, 03:50 PM
CaseDawg CaseDawg is offline
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well, you have to remember rumblefish, i am a junior in high school and $400-600 is a good chunk of a summer job. a job that i can only get minimum wage because no one will hire a 17 year old. all the higher wage jobs are for 18 and older, and i don't turn 18 till Nov. sucks to be me...like i said earlier in my posts, i'm getting wheels and paint before i do anything engine wise. so i have till next year to start deciding what i really want to do with the engine upgrades. i might use that swap as my senior project and get some of the relatives to drop in a little cash! that's how i got this car in the first place. "hey dad, i think it would be cool to get an old car to rebuild! hmmm, thats a pretty good idea son, why don't you start looking around for one?" and so it began. i got a cool car and a good father-son project at the same time! thanks.



casey
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  #46  
Old 04-25-2004, 03:54 PM
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Dude, I am sorry. I think I came off to rude. My appolgies. (And for my poor spelling)
Just make a plan and stick to it. In the long run, the price diff. will be almost nothing. And years down the line, it'll be the price for a movie.
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  #47  
Old 04-25-2004, 04:05 PM
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hey casey

im in the same boat as you still in high school and i dont live to far away from you.. if you want a fast car start looking at junk cars for a 318 with tranny swap im sure you can find something for 200 bux.. the trick is finding something takes in good shape... i might have somethign for you... you got AIM?
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  #48  
Old 04-25-2004, 04:49 PM
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If you have a self-pull junkyard in your area with good prices, you can often get a good engine if you know how to look for it. I just got some engine parts off a 72 Dodge Truck with a bad tranny. Whoever gave up on it had recently gone completely thru the motor. Tranny was so bad that the filter was saturated with metallic gunk. Guess he didn't want to spend anymore on his ride. The skill is in being able to identify the recently rebuilt stuff. If the tranny is clean and the motor isn't, then the tranny is probably a good thing to get. Pull the pan and inspect for gunk first, tho. If the motor is clean and the tranny isn't, pull valve covers and even the intake manifold and look for evidence of fresh cam, heads, etc. New freeze plugs on the heads only indicates a valve job. New freeze plugs everywhere is an indication of a recent engine rebuild.
You don't have to rebuild what you have, if you can find one that has already been done by others.
For you, for now, the quickest way to get a better seat of the pants feel of performance is to get about a 2.9 or 3.23 rear axle. Your around town mileage won't suffer much, and it will feel a lot better to drive. A rear sway bar helps with the cornering, and is relatively cheap. Modifying the ignition will help as well, you can do that easily by getting the electronic ignition module, harness, and distributor from a newer car. Recurve the mechanical advance. Those few things will make a noticeable difference, and you will have learned a few things along the way.
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  #49  
Old 04-26-2004, 02:38 PM
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Case, if you plan on keeping the slant, you should check out www. slantsix.org, and www.slantsix.com. these two sites are a wealth of information on this engine. good luck.
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  #50  
Old 04-26-2004, 05:44 PM
CaseDawg CaseDawg is offline
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hey 69roadrunner69, yeah i have AIM. i'd like to chat with ya if that's alright. that'd be cool if you could hook me up with some stuff. i already have a 318 that my friend gave me for free. i guess mainly the only cost differences that i've been worried about is having to swap my radiator, tranny, and suspention upgrades, which in the big picture isn't very much really. i don't know what i'm going to do yet. i still have till next year to decide on what i want to do, but if i can start collecting parts and get them cleaned up, my swap will go a lot faster. i have been going to the slantsix websites and throwing out some questions. thanks for all your help and i hope to get in touch with you 69roadrunner69. my SN for AOL AIM is casedawg56 and for yahoo is paswrd911. feel free to IM me if you see me on. or let me know when you'd like to chat and i'll see if i can get around to it. i work on tues and wed from 4-9 so i might be able to talk after nine or any other day in the evening.


casey
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  #51  
Old 04-28-2004, 11:55 AM
CaseDawg CaseDawg is offline
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i don't know, i might do the super six thing. bigger exhaust and headers. that's probably the best route for a young'n like me with no money.


casey
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  #52  
Old 04-28-2004, 12:32 PM
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Becha get disappointed.
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  #53  
Old 04-28-2004, 05:43 PM
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C'mon, Rumble. You're always the upbeat kinda guy. I've never known you to be a party-pooper.

How could he possibly be disappointed? He'll have fresh paint and good-looking wheels on a MOPAR. He'll also have maybe 10-25% more HP than it came with stock, and he'll know that he's just starting out and is only on the first rung of the performance ladder, with no where to go but up.

When he finishes school and gets a good paying job he'll know where to go to get good advise on how to swap in a V8. Hang in there, Case. You're on the right track. MOPARs rule!
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  #54  
Old 04-29-2004, 12:47 AM
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thanks 72challenger. i think i'm about to make my first conversion step though. it'll help me either way i choose. i found a 8.75 rear end just sitting there waiting to be plucked from the unsuspecting drunk. if it won't fit my car, i'm going to trade it for a 8.25 rear end and only have to pay whatever the old guy wants, probably like $20. that's a pretty good price for a 8.75 don't you think? the place i'm getting my 8.25 rear end sells them for $499 off old junk cars! thanks.


casey
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  #55  
Old 04-29-2004, 01:00 AM
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499 for a 8.25??? lol they must think its gold.. i bet money that the 8 3/4 your geting isnt for a Body.. and isnt suregrip... its sounds like a deal but you wont get that kinda deal for a A body 8 3/4 and if it is the a body rear SNAP ON THAT DEAL!! yeah btw are you on AIM?
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  #56  
Old 04-29-2004, 11:35 AM
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Quote:
C'mon, Rumble. You're always the upbeat kinda guy.
Yea, 95% of the time. Thanks. But, when he finally does the 318 or larger swap, he'll understand where I stand.
Until then..........Best of luck and have fun.
Quote:
I've never known you to be a party-pooper.
Don't mean to be. God forbid I should stand in your way of what ever you think is the best way to go.
Quote:
He'll also have maybe 10-25% more HP than it came with stock
I still believe the 318 is a better idea due to the fact it comes with more HP and torque in stock trim than the slant 6 can be built into (On the cheap).
Then a few bucks later, have 300 HP with total and complete drivabilty, mileage and manors. AND still best the /6 on every count including mileage. All this before headers and overdrive.
Then he could go for a bit more gusto with a centrif. supercharger and add 50% more HP and still retain the exact same mileage as before the charger.
Do ya understand where I stand?
Hell, it's just my take. Theres a thousand more out there.
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  #57  
Old 04-29-2004, 12:09 PM
CaseDawg CaseDawg is offline
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oops, my bad roadrunner, that's 499 for a 8.75! i don't think it's for an a-body because it has the 4.5in bolt pattern and as far as i know, they only made 8.75's for the a-body with a 4in bolt pattern. and i am on AIM. my Sn is casedawg56. you wanna chat sometime, let me know and i'll see what i can do! hey rumblefish, i think i'm going to make your dreams come true and go for the 318. how's this sound: 360 heads, headers, dual exhaust, performer intake, 4bbl(don't know which one yet)?


casey
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  #58  
Old 04-29-2004, 03:39 PM
72Challenger 72Challenger is offline
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If you're going to do the work involved in a swap, and you don't already have the 318, you may as well go with a 360. Exactly the same amount of work, and more power potential.
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  #59  
Old 04-29-2004, 09:00 PM
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72Challenger; his first post says free 318.
Quote:
hey rumblefish, i think i'm going to make your dreams come true
Thats impossible, but, shes short, blonde and rich, ... loves heavy metal and rock, drives a faster Mopar than me that "She built". LOL
Quote:
how's this sound:
Standard with a loss of potentail mileage.
Do whatcha want, I'm done on this thread. Have fun.
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  #60  
Old 04-29-2004, 09:06 PM
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http://www.geocities.com/alwest_83/318
Heres a few tips to look foward to in the future for a 318.
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