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  #31  
Old 12-28-2008, 01:35 PM
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BelvedereII BelvedereII is offline
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Cageman, the thread originator is using Chrysler components only. Your first two responses stated ballast resistors aren't needed, implying that is the case with purely Chrysler systems, but that is wrong (unless you drive your vehicle only once a year and keep your fingers crossed)--you left out the key element which you put in your third post, that you run a General Motors H.E.I. ignition module. Don't you think that the short hit-and-run statement "I dont run a ballast on anything, dont know what they are for.
" should include the fact that a GM H.E.I. ignition module is required to make that work?

Looking at it again, I'm thinking you keep calling the GM H.E.I. an oem part to show how to save money (or maybe to agitate DWC) but it's not Chrysler oem.

For anyone using the GM H.E.I. ignition module, here's information from M.A.D. electrical about that system's requirement to not have any ballast in-line....they operate best at full voltage;

http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/hei-1.shtml

and here's what I plan on using for the GM H.E.I. ignition if I wind up going that route...they make reference to using the proper coil for a given ignition system, which I currently use.

http://www.allpar.com/fix/electronic-ignition.html

BII
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  #32  
Old 12-28-2008, 02:08 PM
Century Cp Guru Century Cp Guru is offline
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Stay away fromGm H.E.I use a Mopar Electronic with correct ballast for Box, make sure you got GOOD Grounds.Wire it By the Mopar Performance Book.You Wont have any trouble.also 69 and down cars use a special voltage regular P3690732
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  #33  
Old 12-28-2008, 05:54 PM
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cageman cageman is offline
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Hmm, looks like I should get more power to it, I need to wire in a relay to make sure it is getting 14 volts, Looks like I learned something today. No wonder I dont seem to have a problem.
I also still think a ballast is for points only.
To keep it non confusing, I simply kept it simple and said I dont use a ballast on anything, except for points, but I dont have points on anything. I got a 63 225 slant running this summer and I was just about ready to start it and I realized it had points, I threw an elec distrib in it I had and wired in the hei and I was glad I did that, as I hate points.
This quote I also like, should add stubborn in there before mopar.
"Remove ballast resistor. Discard or keep in glove compartment to rescue fellow Mopar owner."
So I didnt mislead anyone, I just simplified it as most people dont want to hear about the hei, and it would have started a whole new argument, You could run a dodge ignition with out a ballast all day long, just like one guy said, dont leave the power on for a long time, but why would a guy do that anyways. But that is probably left over from the points days also.
I also think an hei module is oem. I bought an accel module once, but I dont think it is any different than the junkyard modules I have on the rest. So that was probably a waste of 30 dollars, could have just used a stock one for free.
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  #34  
Old 12-28-2008, 06:27 PM
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BelvedereII BelvedereII is offline
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Yeah, I don't remember exactly how it went but Mark got grief about H.E.I. not working so well over a given RPM yet he's able to make motors crank up pretty tight with it in circle track use. You can call him and ask specifics, he's glad to help anyone. His main driver's a Ford, he uses a lot of Delco stuff in his work, but he's an automotive electrician with a lot of experience to use what's best for a given application.

BII
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  #35  
Old 12-29-2008, 12:31 PM
dgc333 dgc333 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BelvedereII View Post

For anyone using the GM H.E.I. ignition module, here's information from M.A.D. electrical about that system's requirement to not have any ballast in-line....they operate best at full voltage;

http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/hei-1.shtml

and here's what I plan on using for the GM H.E.I. ignition if I wind up going that route...they make reference to using the proper coil for a given ignition system, which I currently use.

http://www.allpar.com/fix/electronic-ignition.html

BII
The GM HEI module does not eliminate the need for a ballast resistor. You need to be using a coil that is designed to run at full battery voltage all the time. Just replacing the mopar ecu with a GM module and using a stock coil will result in too much current through the coil at low speeds.

GM didn't use a ballast in there HEI system but "system" is the key word you start mix an matching parts and you don't get the same results.

Also, the GM module is just an electronic switch, the same as a mopar ecu. It will not make a hotter spark and the stock units actually have less rpm capability than the stock mopar module.
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  #36  
Old 12-29-2008, 01:05 PM
beepbeepsrule beepbeepsrule is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgc333 View Post
My recommendation would be to use a stock coil with a stock ballast resistor or an aftermarket coil with its recomended ballast.


+1 from me....
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  #37  
Old 12-30-2008, 12:24 AM
Walkercolt Walkercolt is offline
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I pulled the coil from my sister G-30(Chevy 454) Airstream motorhome because it kept breaking down at high alititudes in CO, and Canada. Used the Jacobs kit and coil, and 25 years later it's still doing great. I'm no fan of the HEI system. Had too many problems in high heat and other things causing the tiny coil module to break-down. Some people swear by them, but I'm one that swears at them.
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