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#1
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What should my timing be!
Just installed a 360 into my 72 Dart. It has 10:1 comp w/ edelbrock heads, edel rpm cam, edel rpm intake, crane gold rockers, MSD ignition box and distributor. What should my initial timing and total timing be?
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#2
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Most are running about 10 B with 36 total coming in around 2000-2500
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#3
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I thought the total should be a little higher? maybe around 4000rpm
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#4
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Depending on the cam specs(I'm not familiar with those rpm cams) I would think you'll want more like 14-16 initial, and all in by 2700 or so.
Doesn't edelbrock have a tech line with that sort of info?(Since they sold you the whole set up) |
#5
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If you didn't know what my timing should be, then why did you post a reply? If you must know, I have already sent Edelbrock an e-mail and haven't received a response.
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#6
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dave571 is right on the money, I have mine set at 15 initial and 35 total. It starts coming in at 1200 and is all in at 2600. I have had to re-curve my distributor to get it just right. You may have to close in the mech. advance slots a bit to get it right and use different springs also. A distributor machine would be a big help if you are not comfortable with playing around with it yourself.
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#7
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Quote:
They make quite a difference when plotting timing curves, and I don't think ANYONE on the boards knows them all by heart, not even Roger H, edelbrock engineer. If you don't like the answers, then don't ask for help. |
#8
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ditto
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#9
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Waldorf: Your a newbe here and you'll soon realize that everyone will try and help you with opinions and experience, don't be too quick to condem....you may need us one day.....
From My Book: MOPAR IGNITION The truth is Mopar distributors have some problems that although are challenging can be overcome with the right equipment and some patience. The biggest problem is in the advance plate itself, if you disassemble the distributor you'll see how it just sort of floats in there in a slot. What happens is as the vacuum advance unit moves the plate is doesn't stay flat and true, it wanders up and down causing fluctuations in the timing and an engine that just doesn't run consistent. You can read the entire article at: http://www.4secondsflat.com/Mopar_Distributor_Tech.html For more tuning help: http://www.4secondsflat.com/Mission%20Ignition.html Read these articles and if you have any other questions I'm sure you'll find plenty of help here. Don |
#10
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Use a vacuum guage and adjust base timing until max vacuum is obtained and then if timing is off up in rpm then adjust it mechanically.
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#11
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MOPARBYFAR
Do NOT read Don's ignition article! All that happens is that you'll try it yourself and find out that you only got 90% of the power that you really thought was in the distributor... then you'll want the other 10%.... then you talk to Don and he'll get even more power out of it than you ever could for only $100. Then he'll tell you where your timing needs to be, what you need to do to the jetting, etc. Geez, I wonder if the make a helmet big enough for Don's head!?! |
#12
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Haven't read it, hadn't had a reason to. So anything that partains to it I wouldn't be able to comment on. I do hear great things about him though.
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#13
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moparbyfar, just how is your distributor set up?
Initial Total Where does it come in? What Box are you using? What Coil? Are you using a vacuum cannister? Did you rework the advance plate mechanism? Always interested how other people set there distributors up with big HP motors.Thanks Don |
#14
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I have a full MSD ignition(8546 dist., 6420 box, 8223 blaster 3 coil) and use the blue springs and it comes in around 1400. Dont use a timing light so couldn't tell you where base is, I only use a vacuum guage since I believe each engine is different even with identical builds. I use MSD 8982 retard 4 my nitrous w/ a 10 degree chip. I have a comp cam vacuum canister. I am self taught on this stuff and just learned without the use of a timing light and had never been in a fix to use one.
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#15
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On a modified engine makes no difference what the initial is as long as it starts and stops without run-on. Set the idle speed to 3200 RPM to get past the double fire point on MSD boxes set the total 3500 RPM. This should produce an optimum point to fine tune the ignition for max performance. The MSD crowd can use the dist gizmos to tailor the curve the Mopar folk can get out the allen wrench to set the dist with vacuum advance. Just maybe all cars are a little different, climates are different, driving habits are different and if a person expects an defenitive answer they should explore another avenue. That kind of information is available only for mega bucks and the major automotive manufacturers are still working on it.
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#16
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Interesting....what are the cam numbers on that beast?
Your making 447 at the rear wheels...thats dam good! What times are you running? Oh and Welcome to Moparchat |
#17
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The "shelf" spex on this cam is 242/248 @ .050 w/ .570"/.576" cut on a 110 degree lobe separation. Mine is cut on a 108 degree and I degreed it in on a 106 intake centerline. I lash the valves .018"/.018". Times are 7.60's 1/8th on motor and 6.70's on spray. Heads are moded by me and the intake has been extrude honed(looks awesome if anything).
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#18
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How high up do you rev it?
Any idea what your total advance is? |
#19
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Ya we run about the same 7.62 is our best 1/8th mile we usually dial abut a 7.66-7.68 on the 1/8th.
Similar cam duration but a .518 lift.... I've also found that a .018 lash is best allround performance on my old iron 273 heads. |
#20
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I rev it until it pops! Just kiddin', but see that a lot though. I am limited on the line by my converter so I leave at 2500 and shift at 6400. Dont mean to be hijackin' this guys thread though!
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#21
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Quote:
"but see that a lot though" ..On your motor??? I sure hope not.... Whatever your doing seems to be working for you, me personally....I would't take a motor down the track without knowing exactly where my timing and all events were set at....Especially with that Giggle Juice. Everyone here knows my opinion on that $hit. I'm an old stubborn purest who believes that if you want to run 10's then get out the calculator and die grinder and build it with skill and knowledge and not play Kids games with the Honda trix....Trix are for kids ...I always tell 'em "loose the Wabbit kid"....LOL You should review the article I wrote and then borrow a good dial back timing light and see where your at, you never know you may learn something that may or may not help you, but it may help a fellow Moparian some day. Gotta run...pull the pin and mash the gas Later Don |
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