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  #1  
Old 04-26-2006, 05:42 PM
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Default Notching the K-Member

When I installed the 360 in the Dart, I had a heck-of a time installing the oilpan over the windage tray. Now I have a huge leak!

How much can I notch my k-member for pan clearance and still be safe?
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Old 04-26-2006, 07:21 PM
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With a stock center sump oil pan and a stock K frame you wont need to notch the K frame. Only high dollar incorrectly built race type oil pans need the K frame to be notched. We run a Kevko race pan on all of our 360 based race engines and we have never notched a K frame. Your windage tray should not contact your oil pan unless it has been damaged somehow.
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Old 04-26-2006, 11:02 PM
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Thanks Dwc, but let me give you some more info.

When I jack up the engine to put the pan on, the space between the K-member and the windage tray on the bottom of the engine is pretty small. It's really difficult to put the pan on without screwing up your gasket. It doesn't want to go forward enough to get the back past the tranny.

Am I doing something wrong? Is there a better way to do this?

I got the idea from the mopar "A" Engine book (glad I asked here).
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Old 04-27-2006, 12:24 AM
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Yeah, pull the engine and do it the right way. It was not designed to pull the pan off with it in the car. I do see your prolem though. You can always install your gasket after you have the pan in place though. That's what I would do.
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Old 04-27-2006, 12:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim13
Am I doing something wrong? Is there a better way to do this?
You may try cleaning the flange of the block where the oil pan bolts up real good with solvent, then glueing the gasket straight to the block using 3-M weatherstrip adhesive (gorilla snot!). You can then hold the gasket in place screwing the pan bolts in with a few extra washers until dry, then at least you dont have to fight with the gasket while manuevering the pan. Just be careful not to snag the gasket when installing the pan. Is the engine or transmission hitting the floor pan while you have it jacked up? You should have enough clearance, I would think.
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Old 04-27-2006, 03:27 AM
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I'm going to search the performance shops when they open for a rubber gasket. That might be harder to screw up, and I will try to get it to stick to the block first like you suggested Stoga.

The tranny was hitting the floorpan. If I could only get 1/2" more, I'd be there.

If that doesn't work, I'll pull it. Man, that's gonna suck with the headers!

Thank's for the input.
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Old 04-27-2006, 04:49 AM
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You don't rubber, that's worse than anything. Check with Mopar preformance or any speed shop for a reusable race type gasket. I know it comes i nteh Mopar race tear down set, but that's a whole set of gaskets. It's cork on each side of a metal band. ANd it's reusable and it's quite stiff. You just force the pan in then you slide in this gasket with no sealer and use your stock rubber ends and you'll have it made.
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Old 04-27-2006, 12:28 PM
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Thanks Dwc!

I just got off the phone with a local shop and they will be here tomorrow.
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Old 04-27-2006, 02:50 PM
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DoesFelpro make a one piece pan gasket yet for a small block. Those are sweet.

Oh and DW, I have had to notch two frames to get a kevko in, they arent the best fitting in a 73 B body Or a 88 Gran fury.
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Old 04-27-2006, 09:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim13
Thanks Dwc!

I just got off the phone with a local shop and they will be here tomorrow.

Good deal. Those should work for you.
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  #11  
Old 04-27-2006, 09:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cageman
DoesFelpro make a one piece pan gasket yet for a small block. Those are sweet.

Oh and DW, I have had to notch two frames to get a kevko in, they arent the best fitting in a 73 B body Or a 88 Gran fury.
Probably not the same pan as mine. I know they make more than one. I've never had to notch a stock style from Kevko especially on a B body. I can take a pic of mine if you want to see it. IT's a '74 Charger I bought from Dyno360 a couple years ago. Hope to do a rework on it soon when the new shop is completed.
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Old 04-28-2006, 08:20 PM
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You might also drop the trans cross member and let the tailshaft down. Might give you a little more clearance.....
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Old 04-29-2006, 12:38 AM
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Thanks for all of your help guys!

I just got it in there a few minutes ago.

With the gaskets stuck to the block with "the right stuff" and up out of the way, I didn't have to worry about being as gentle getting the pan in there around the headers, tranny lines etc. I got it close then gave it a little smack with my palm and it popped right in.

All I have left is the tranny cooler, tighten up my motor mounts, new speedometer gear, and put my carb back on. I should be able to do this in the morning so we can take it for a spin this weekend and race it on wednesday. I want to know much quicker it runs with the 4.10's and suregrip instead of the open rear 2.45's!!
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Old 04-29-2006, 12:43 AM
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Congrats. I think you'll see a big improvement with those gears. Let us know what it turns will ya?
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