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  #211  
Old 01-27-2008, 04:50 PM
sanborn sanborn is offline
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daryl, need some questions answered:
1. What are your engine components? Heads, cam, crank, rods???
2. What RPM range are you planning?
3. What block are you using?
4. What is the width of the pressure section of your pump?
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  #212  
Old 01-27-2008, 08:57 PM
daryl2399 daryl2399 is offline
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Sanborn thanks for getting back to me so quick. I am using a 340 block an a roller top end, w2heads, 630 lift cam, harlon sharp off set rockers, smith brothers push rods,eagle h beam rods, an ross pistons. The crank is a 3.79 mopar with a 8 bolt flang. the compression will be close to 14 to 1. The pressure section of the pump is a inch an a half wide. I want to turn it a constant 7000 for 45 to 60 seconds. You can see more of my sport at www.ussbaracing.com I was wondering where I am turning both ways instead of just left would make any difference in the way I would set it up? Thanks for the help Daryl
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  #213  
Old 01-28-2008, 12:57 AM
sanborn sanborn is offline
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OK, you are using a stock block. A stock block needs more than a #10 oil feed line to the block. You really need to increase that size to a #12 OR fix a feed line to the front of the block IN ADDITION to the #10 rear feed line.

Your RPM is low enough to not need any additional modifications other than those in the "typical oiling mods" blurb. Most of the oval track engines with dry sump pumps get well up into the 8-9000RPM range. You won't be anywhere close.

You definitely need an oil cooler---either air or water. And a 12 quart tank.

I would recommend spring oilers---which are really spring coolers.

I am not a fan of Eagle rods in an application like this---a really good rod like a Carillo would be better---more $$$ too! But maybe they will work at the lower RPM(7000).

Ring anytime----Good Luck!
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  #214  
Old 01-28-2008, 11:41 PM
daryl2399 daryl2399 is offline
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Thanks for the help. I do have a couple of questons. Would you recomend feeding the front in this application? If I do feed the front will the 10 be big enough for the rear? I see you do not like the eagle rods. I have a set of scats but they seem awfully heavy. Also how many rpms can a guy turn one of these without worrying about cap walk? How much difference do the 4 bolt caps make over the 2? Thanks for your time an knowledge.
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  #215  
Old 01-29-2008, 01:29 AM
sanborn sanborn is offline
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I am not an expert on boat racing---so my basic thoughts may be incorrect. But, I think your engine will be under extreme torque loads. And extreme torque is hard on a crank, rods and the block. Yes, I think you will get cap walk---but the only fix is a sturdy race block with 4 bolt caps. Using a stock block leaves you with the only option of installing two bolt studs. And I am not sure installing 4 bolt caps in a stock block will help much---because the main webbing in a stock block may be weakened by installing the 4 bolt main caps. Now, before you get too excited, upset, etc.; I don't think your block will fail immediately---I think it will take some time. I suggest you go ahead and assemble the engine, run a few races, frequently check the main bearings and inspect for cap walk. If cap walk is not excessive---great! If you see signs of cap walk---then you know you need to make some changes.

About feeding the block---I think either feeding the rear with a #12 line OR feeding the back with a #10 and the front with a minimum or #8 in the front. Feeding the rear with a #12 is easier.

About the rods----Eagle rods are good for what they were really designed for---moderate level racing. I am thinking that the torque requirement of your engine is above the safe level of Eagle rods---or CAT rods for that matter. I really think you need a better rod---like Carillo, Lentz, Crower billet or even Oliver would be OK---and I think you need a rod with 7/16 rod bolts.

As I said previously, I think your engine will be under severe torque loads. Maybe I am wrong---If I am then your block and Eagle rods may be OK. If I am correct---then you may have trouble coming.

If you already have the parts or even the engine assembled---you can run it. But, I would look at the the main caps and rods early and frequently. I would check the rods by removing them and checking the cap for "cap stretch" or "egg shaping" of the big end. Again, if you have "egg shaping" then trouble is on the way.

Please understand---my personal choice is using components that are maybe too good for an application. But then again, I think we have failed if we can't get more than 4-5 years out of an engine. And one of our engines we have been using for 10 years---sure we freshen, replace fatiqued components frequently but I hate "blown engines".
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  #216  
Old 01-30-2008, 12:18 AM
daryl2399 daryl2399 is offline
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Yes our engines are always under load. On the chevy I had to go to a mowtown block because the walls were not thick enough. Think I am going to go with what I have an see if it will hold up. I am usually happy to make it through a season with a motor. Hate to go to far on new stuff till I get the oiling figued out. I am going to think about how to feed it for a couple of weeks an then get started. Snow is so deep here can not hardly get to the shop anyway. Was wondering if you use a crank scrapper or maybe just a windage tray on your setups? What kind of oil would you recomend? I have been starting with rotela an then going to valviline in mine. Thanks for the help Daryl
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  #217  
Old 01-30-2008, 12:35 AM
sanborn sanborn is offline
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A couple of questions----When you used the Chevrolet engine, what kind of rods did you use?

You already have a dry sump pan? What brand of pan do you have? All you should need is a standard dry sump pan, with the separator screen. No windage tray is required, nor is a close fitting scraper required.
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  #218  
Old 01-30-2008, 08:41 PM
daryl2399 daryl2399 is offline
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I used eagle rods on the chev with no problems maybe just good luck. The only problems I ever had was cracking the blocks on the 400s, even tryed cement. Reason I went to mopar is we have to run a stock porting angle an cast iron heads. There were alot of people with more money too. There is a 412 cube limit is why I was asking about the caps. I have a couple of older 360 blocks I was thinking about 408 next year. They are alot eazyer to come by than a 340. The first time I put this together it didnt last long. Did not know anything about a crossover tube. Thought I had to many 90s in the line so I eliminated them. Was wondering about the 10 on the feed too but looking down the tube it looked about the same size. The second time I knew I needed help. The pan is a stefs. I have modifyed it an added another sucker. It does have a screen but is a little deep. Believe it was made for a exturnal wet sump system. These boats are very competative usually on the same half a second if not 10ths of a second. I dont want to leave any thing on the table that I can control. If you have any ideas that might help I would like to listen. I am the only one with a mopar an believe it has alot of potential. I truly only turn it 7000. The blades in the jet pump wont move any more water with out blowing the pump away. Thanks for the help. Daryl
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  #219  
Old 01-30-2008, 09:22 PM
sanborn sanborn is offline
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Even dry sump pans need to be as deep as possible. And our Stefs dry sump pan is pretty deep.

I'm glad to know about the Eagle rods in your 400---maybe I am too gunshy!

A 360 block is as good as a 340 for your application. But, the 360 block has larger main bearings than a 340---be sure to keep that in mind.

Anytime you have questions---just ring!
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  #220  
Old 01-30-2008, 09:34 PM
daryl2399 daryl2399 is offline
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Thank for your help. Let you know if I run into any problems but think I have a pretty good understanding of what I need to do. Again many THANKS Daryl
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  #221  
Old 02-09-2008, 05:20 PM
drag370 drag370 is offline
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cant wait to get my post count to 10 as it is a much harder read with out pics.
drag370
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  #222  
Old 02-09-2008, 05:26 PM
drag370 drag370 is offline
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I would also like to thank sanborn for sharing his wealth of experience and taking the time to put it all together so it makes sence.
drag370
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  #223  
Old 02-09-2008, 05:38 PM
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It doesn't have to be 10 in this thread... Not bashing, just noting that there are other ways of getting your post count up besides filling one of the best threads with no additional content. Makes it harder to sort through in the future.

Clair
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  #224  
Old 02-09-2008, 06:00 PM
drag370 drag370 is offline
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And how do you think your post helps make it any easier.
p.s thanks for the welcome , I see other people have poted 10 in a row but I posted some where else first
drag370
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  #225  
Old 02-09-2008, 07:10 PM
drag370 drag370 is offline
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Sanborn my praise was genuine & not just to get my post count up.
Could you please tell me if you have had any experience with a swinging pick up on a wet sump small block chrysler ,I have read a lot about big blocks but nothing about small blocks .Do you know if they have ever been used ?
Thank you for your time
drag370
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  #226  
Old 02-10-2008, 01:28 AM
MOPAR MAN R3 MOPAR MAN R3 is offline
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WOW… I have spent a good part of the day reading through all 19 pages of this truly informative thread. Thank you Sanborn and everyone else who contributed to this thread, the wealth of knowledge in this thread just blows me away, I just couldn’t stop reading. Oh and just to set the record strait, if it wasn’t for you so called “old farts” who have had many years of real world experience, all us young farts would be good at is blowing stuff up.

I am feeling a little overwhelmed at the moment, I really wish I could have started reading this thread years ago when it started and slowly packed the information in my brain, because right now I am suffering from information overload so please bare with me everyone.

Mr SanbornÂ… I believe most of the engines we have talked about are 59 degree factory blocks. I am somewhat new to this whole thing, I say somewhat because what I know is not from practical experience it is from people like yourself who have actual experience. I only know what I read and I have been researching and planning for years now in hopes that I might actually be able to build the engine I have wanted for so many years.

To start off my applicationÂ…
Street/Strip but not a daily drivenÂ… nice dry dayÂ’s when I have enough in the bank to fill the tank.
The plan is for a 439ci stroker, supercharged, with water meth injection.
Because of the 4” stroke most people have suggest I limit the max RPM to 7500, I have been thinking about reducing the stroke to get some more revs but I haven’t completely decided on that yet.
Here is the part that makes most people fall off there chair, HP goal… for now is 1500 @ the wheels and that means about 1800 at the crank, and this will be for the track. I will reduce the boost pressure for the street… slightly. I know of street vehicles that are making over 2000HP on the street, like those that participate in the “fastest street vehicle challenges” but I don’t know of any Mopars that do that yet!


To start off with I have a brand new set of W8 heads P/N P4876281, they are bare castings that have never been machined.

I am interested in your external oil feed lines for the rockersÂ… is that what this is and do I need it? Should I use tappet oiling or the external oil lines you mentioned or both?

.shadydellspeedshop.com/img/INDY6.jpg[/url]

Here is also a picture of the oil drain back lines for W8Â’s, another mod I am planning on doing.

.shadydellspeedshop.com/img/W8/000_4502.JPG[/url]

The block I am patiently waiting for to become available is a P4876673AC, this is a 48º, siamese, tall deck block. This block is set up for tappet oiling from the factory and has provisions for oiling in the front and back of the block. The cam journals without bearings are 2.1293"-2.1307" and are for use with babbitt bearings. Unlike 59º blocks the cam journals are all the same size.

The block I am speaking of does not have long oval shaped holes over the camshaft. Instead of having issues with oil being slashed up into the lifter valley you now have a problem with oil drain back. With a wet sump system 5 or 6 0.500" holes need to be drilled in the lifter valley to allow oil to drain back to the oil pan. The holes should be in line with the Camshaft so that oil drips onto the Cam, providing lubrication for the Tappets and Cam... so I am told.

One of the books I read suggested using full groove main bearings, this requires machining a bearing tang receiver in the #5 main cap since the tang is located in a different spot on the upper and lower bearing shells. I believe the book also said that full groove bearings are hard to find so they suggested buying 2 sets to make full groove main bearings. What do you think of this idea?

I like the oil cross over lineÂ… I didnÂ’t know about it till todayÂ… is that what this is?

.shadydellspeedshop.com/img/000_5999.JPG[/url]

Also I donÂ’t completely understand the installation other than the obvious which can be see in the link above. You mentioned something about double plugging the left side galley, what does this mean?

I am planning on using Jesel keyway roller lifters… they do not make lifters for our blocks specifically but I have heard of people using them, I am just not sure what size they use, so if anyone has a P/N that would be great… Now I remember you saying that we needed to tube the block with roller lifters, is this necessary with Jesel’s ”full bodied lifters?” See link below. At what RPM should I think about using solid roller lifters?

.jeselonline.com/v2/index.php?categoryid=16[/url]

I am planning on using a Titan Speed Engineering oil pump, how do I go about selecting a volumeÂ… they have 5 options. .875,1.100,1.750,1.975 and 2.200 ?

The block off plate for the remote oil filter I am planning on using isÂ…

.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=21306[/url]

Someone mentioned something about an external oil pressure regulatorÂ… who makes these?

The T&D rockers I am planning on using have oil holes to cool the springs, is that sufficient?

What modifications would you suggest for this set-up? Any help you could give me would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for you wisdom, and if you n
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  #227  
Old 02-10-2008, 01:30 AM
MOPAR MAN R3 MOPAR MAN R3 is offline
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For the links just add www to the begining... it would not let me post links till I had 25 posts... fustraiting!
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  #228  
Old 02-11-2008, 01:11 AM
sanborn sanborn is offline
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What type of supercharger do you want to use? GMC(roots type), centrifugal or turbo? The type of supercharging has some effect on the components you need to use.



Use of W8 heads is the best choice. But, as "as cast" heads they need a lot of work. You are going to need someone like Shady Dell, Chapman or ---to do the serious port work to get them to flow.

There may not be any more "R" blocks available! But, sit tight, there is an aftermarket block coming on the scene very shortly that will answer your needs. It's called the "XR" block. A unique concept, it is one casting that can accomodate either 10 bolt, 18 bolt or 20 bolts heads. That means you can order it for any Mopar head you want. The same is true for the lifter bore angle---59, 48 or combo angles for the P7 head. The project is led by Kent Ritter---a very knowledgeable and reputable Mopar racer. Shady Dell will be a dealer---and others as well. Keep you ear to the ground for details. They will be able to answer all your block needs.

Don't even think about full groove main bearings. You want 1/2 groove mains. Full groove will not provide enough support for your crank.

I am not knowledgeable about the Titan oil pump. Is it wet sump or dry sump?

A few comments about what you are about to embark on. Use only the best components available---only consider billet cranks, billet rods, the best forged, blower pistons, the best valves, etc. Horsepower is not cheap! And keeping a high HP engine together is especially not cheap!

I know I didn't answer all your questions. But, I need to know about the supercharger and oil pump selection. And I also need to know what your plans are regarding the heads. Get back to me with that info then we can talk some more.

BTW, is the "woodstock" in GA or NY?
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  #229  
Old 02-11-2008, 06:39 AM
MOPAR MAN R3 MOPAR MAN R3 is offline
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Thank you for your reply Sanborn. I have all of this information writen down I just need to get it all together. I am on the day shift right now so I will not be able to get back to you for a couple day, so if it ever takes me a while to reply that is what is going on. Thanks again for your help I look forward to your future responses.
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  #230  
Old 02-13-2008, 12:52 AM
MOPAR MAN R3 MOPAR MAN R3 is offline
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The supercharger I am planning on using is a centrifugal type, a Procharger F3 series.

.procharger.com/models.shtml

I have always wanted a set of W8 heads, and it was just buy luck I found them. I managed to buy the heads, intake manifold, and valve covers for around the same price as it would have cost me to buy one head new… if possible. Needless to say I scooped them up in a hurry. I do not mind the heads not being ported because it gives me the flexibility to have the heads machined for my specific application. I have done some research on CNC porters and my top choices at the moment are Shady Dell and CFE.

I have spoken with a couple Mopar Performance dealers about the block I mentioned earlier and they said that they were expecting delivery this June. So I will have to see what happens there. But the block you mentioned does sound good. It sure beats needing numerous casting to go with all the different head designs. Maybe it will keep costs down and make the racing blocks a little more affordable.

I was thinking you might have that reaction with regards to the main bearings, I had the same kind of opinion but I just assumed that others knew more. Is there a specific bearing you would recommend for this application, there are so many different bearing materials. I should also mention that I am planning on using synthetic oil as soon as the engine is broken in. I have used Royal Purple before and I know a lot of racers that like it. Engine Masters magazine had a write up on it, I believe it's still on the web encase anyone is interested in reading it.

The Titan oil pump is a gerotor type pump. I have chosen to go with a wet sump design.

.titanspeed.com/content/pump/pump_prowet01.html

Pan designed to work with the Titan pump.

.billetfab.com/index1.htm

As for parts, I tend to seek out the companies that specialize in one thing or one specific area. I figure that in order for a company to succeed with one product they must be good. I have pretty much decided which companies I will be going with for the larger main components.

Crank: Bryant

bryantracing.com/index.html

Rods: Carrillo

.carrilloind.com/

Pistons: BME or Ross
.rosspistons.com/

.bmeltd.com/

Valve train: Jesel

.jeselonline.com/v2/

Valves: Ferrea Titanium In., Supper alloy Ex.

.ferrea.com/valveappguide.php

Of coarse titanium locks, retainers etc.

There are a lot of other smaller parts I would like to ask you about at some point if that is alright with you? For now I hope that gives you a little better idea of some of the products I am thinking of using. You will still have to add the www to the links I listed. Thanks for your help, much appreciated.

I am located in Woodstock, Ontario, Canada... a bit of a drive.
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  #231  
Old 02-13-2008, 06:01 PM
sanborn sanborn is offline
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Your initial selection of components indicate you are aware of the $$$ involoved in this build.

The W8s will need to be very serious to produce the HP you want. Intake flow in the 400CFM range will be required.

The choice of Bryant cranks is good. They produce a lot of 3.80" and 4.00" strokes---probably are a standard item with them. Carillo rods are what I would use for this application---make sure you use CARR bolts. I think I would use CP pistons---just because they are a custom piston mfg. and they have a lot of experience with wedge blower pistons. For valves, Ferrea are good---Titanium on intake---stainless on the exhaust is a wise choice. For rocker arms---I would consider T&D---strictly because of the spring oiling provision. If you use Jesel then you need spring oilers in the valve cover.

What I can't help you with the the ProCharger unit. I just don't know anything about them. I do question if one four barrel carb will be enough. The engine may require 2X4 carbs.

BTW---Use "H" bearings on mains and rods---moly coat both!
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  #232  
Old 02-13-2008, 06:40 PM
clarkj clarkj is offline
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Sanborn - I have a question about the tube in the lifter bore mod. I bought a 340 short block that I will be running on the street, but used to be a drag motor. It will occaisionally see some hard use, so I want things to be well oiled, just not sure what all I need and don't need. I plan on running a solid lifter cam, so keeping the tube in sounds fine to me, but will it starve oil from any other parts that will do me some damage? This won't be a race engine that will be rebuilt and refurbished constantly, in fact I hope I never build it again. Would I be better off to yank the tube out and run it just as stock? Also, I have a high volume pump bought for this engine and have heard about it pumping too much oil out of the pan at high RPMs, is there any truth to this? Thanks in advance!
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  #233  
Old 02-13-2008, 11:10 PM
MOPAR MAN R3 MOPAR MAN R3 is offline
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Thank you once again for the information. I am glad to hear that my many hrs of research has paid off for the most part. I knew there was a difference in the rockers but no one had told me what it was, I did not know it was something that was that critical especially for my application. I have spoken to the good people at Carrillo and they told me they could build my rods, the quote I was given included CARR bolts.

One thing I should have told you is I am planning on going fuel injected either FAST XFI or Accel DFI. I think the TB is one of the least of my worries. Accel released some new TB's, this one I have listed below is designed for 2600CFM, 700 to 3000 HP.

.accel-dfi.com/ProductDetails.aspx?brandId=8&modelNumber=74209&pr oductID=10644728&majID=485&minID=4851&selection=3& minselection=0[/url]

Are these the bearings you are talking about and who do you suggest I use to have them molly coated?

://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+400022+308908+4294908110+42948 40100+115+4294870480&autoview=sku[/url]

What material would you used for Valve seats? I have heard a lot of debate about this...

What material should be used for the piston pins?

What piston rings do you suggest I use? I was told to use molly rings and not to use gap-less.

What so you think of PSI valve springs?

Now that the major core components of this build are know what do you sudgest for my oiling system? Anything different than what you have talked about earlier on page 1. Should I still consider using external oiling to the rockers on top of the Magnum style oiling system, (oil through the push rods)? How do you feel about the Jesel full bodied lifters, will that solve the oil blow-by problems faced with open bodied lifters?

Sorry for all the questions....
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  #234  
Old 02-14-2008, 12:28 AM
sanborn sanborn is offline
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clarkj---I would leave the tube in the block---but cut a hole in each lifter bore so the lifters do get oiled. Running the lifter bores dry on a street engine leads to galled lifters. It doesn't require much of a hole---I have used a small Dremel rotary file to grind a small hole in the tube. 1/8" dia. is all that's needed.

I generally don't like high volume pumps for most applications. If your engine is well worn---a HV pump is fine. If your clearances are good---I prefer a std volume pump. One of the major places to check is the lifter bores---loose ones can leak a lot of oil.
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  #235  
Old 02-14-2008, 12:55 AM
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I can't help you with the injection system. I just don't have experience with it.

You are planning to use a 48 degree lifter bore block. The way the block oils the lifter bores is different from a standard 59 degree block. You don't need to worry about sleeving, special solid body lifters, etc.

The Jesel roller lifters are great! Expensive! Are probably the best for your application! But, other roller lifters (like Isky) will work as well for your application---at a much lesser cost. The decision is yours! Talk to Ryan at Shady Dell---get his opinion.

I would use Copper-Berrylenum(spelling???) valve seats.

You want to blower piston pins. They are heavy---for a reason---but you need them. Get them when you order pistons.

PSI valve springs are fine, Isky Tool Room are good, Manley makes a tool room spring too! Makes sure you get an endurance spring---you don't want a pure drag race spring.

Choosing a set of rings is sort of like choosing which flavor of ice cream you want. My son has had good experience with his GMC blown SB GM using Total Seal SECOND ring. But, Total Seals do NOT like high engine temperatures. I think I would recommend a 1/16", 1/16", 1/8" ring package---standard Moly. I think your ring flutter is reduced---longivity is slightly better---and you give up about 20HP---big deal!

About oiling mods to the block---what RPM do you plan to turn?

BTW, there is no such thing as a stupid question. But just remember---my advice may be worth exactly what you pay for it too!!!
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  #236  
Old 02-14-2008, 06:32 AM
MOPAR MAN R3 MOPAR MAN R3 is offline
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You explained the oil flow pattern with a standard block could you please do that as well with a 48 degree race block, it helped to understand why we need to do these mods in the first place, and it is just interesting to compair.

The RPM I would go with using a 4" stroke is 7500RPM, if I were to reduce the stroke I could make the red line 8500RPM. Again this is what I have been told.

On the cooling note... what do you think of reverse flow cooling on W8 heads with this application... Some have told me it was a good idea others said no. My heads are different from other W8's I have seen, in that my heads have two extra coolant ports under the exhaust ports. I am told that most people just run the 3 usual ports and plug the 2 under the exhaust. I was thinking if I were to use reverse flow cooling, I would block off the 2 standard coolant locations in the front of the block as normal, but instead run the coolant in through the 3 locations on each head, (AN-8 center and AN-6 at the ends). Then I would plug the 2 locations under each exhaust port and run the coolant out through the sides of the block, (AN-16). I was thinking this might help to further suppress detonation with a blown engine given the hosttest spot on the engine is the 2 exhaust valves that are in the centrer of the head.
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Old 02-14-2008, 02:49 PM
clarkj clarkj is offline
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Thanks Sanborn, I will do the holes in my tube like you recommend. I think I will also look into a standard pump, as this motor ought to be plenty tight. There is a spring I can buy to increase pressure from a standard pump, correct? Would you advise using it?
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Old 02-14-2008, 09:41 PM
sanborn sanborn is offline
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There are a couple of major differences in oiling a standard and an "R" block:
1. The "R" blocks have provisions for oiling at both the front and rear of the block.
2. The use of 48 degree lifter bores, in effect, rotates the lifter bores away from the cylinder walls. On a standard block, the oiling galleys(R&L) intersect the 59 degree lifter bores. With the 48 degree block, the oiling galleys DO NOT intersect the lifter bores. There is a small hole drilled from the oiling galley into each lifter bore.

Do you think you could post a photo of your W8 heads. Yes, the way you describe them, they sound like a different casting. I would like to get a photo of the intake surface, the exhaust side showing the water outlets and the deck surface.

Why am I asking for the photos? First, we have three sets of W8s, all have only two water outlets---there isn't provision for a center outlet. And none have a boss for outlets under the exhausts. And two #6 and one #8 water outlets is not enough outlet area for high speed cooling---or at least not in our experience. One #10 and two #8 outlets is marginal. It could be your heads are designed for FIVE water outlets---three out the intake side---two out the side of the head on the exhaust side. You could have some LeMans castings---which are different from regular W8s.
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Old 02-14-2008, 11:52 PM
sanborn sanborn is offline
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clarkj---I would recommend buying the Mopar hi-pressure spring. That will put your oil pressure about 65 lbs.@6500RPM.
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  #240  
Old 02-15-2008, 10:44 AM
clarkj clarkj is offline
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Sounds like a plan Sanborn, I think I will give that route a shot. I think that in the 360 I snapped a crank in, the lack of these mods might be the culprit after reading your postings.

I bought the motor alraedy built...forged crank, solid lifters with no tube through the lifter bores, and what I am now thinking must've been a hi-volume pump. It carried about 15-20 lbs at idle and only about 25-35 at highway speeds. It really didn't jump that much past 40 when I was really into it. One day that $700 forged, balanced, worked over crank just let go crusing at about 50 mph! Hopefully I can avoid that with your ideas...thanks!
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