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  #1  
Old 10-05-2006, 02:12 PM
darkside darkside is offline
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Default lunati voodoo cam

what do ya'll think of this 440 cam?
I'm torn between this cam and the 280 474 purple shaft cam.

lunati voodoo
Advertised Duration IN/EX: 262/268
Duration @ .050 IN/EX: 220/226
Gross Valve Lift IN/EX: .475"/.494"
LSA / ICL: 112/108
Valve Lash IN/EX: Hyd/Hyd
RPM Range: 1400-5800
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  #2  
Old 10-05-2006, 04:15 PM
5spdcuda 5spdcuda is offline
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What are you looking for in a camshaft? The Voodoo you listed should have an idle similar to a stock cam with a slight improvement in power due to increased lift. The MP 280 will almost certainly make more power, but idle will definitely be rougher and will want a higher than stock stall speed in the torque converter and 3:55 or steeper rear end gears in order to deliver it's full potential. Don't skimp on the heads regardless of which cam you choose, no camshaft can make up for a poor valve job or ports that don't work well. This isn't meant to imply that you need race heads on a street car, just that you need heads that work well for their intended purpose.
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  #3  
Old 10-05-2006, 08:34 PM
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rumblefish360 rumblefish360 is offline
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I'd go with the Voo-Doo cam and pocket port small valve heads and headers for a high torque good midrange engine. If the rest of the car is stock or near stock, it should be a good choice. It looks like a slightly hotter cam then the HP cam.
The Mopar cams work well with well preped/ported heads. That cam will make for a good street machine. It will need more stall I believe than the Voo-Doo cam to really wake up the car. 2500 - 3000 is my guess with 3.90 gears.
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  #4  
Old 10-06-2006, 08:49 AM
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dgc333 dgc333 is offline
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The Voodoo will give you a lot more bottom end and mid range and give up very little to the mp cam on top. The Voodoo series like the Comp Extreme Energy series are state of the art fast ramp lobe designs that give you more lift and duration at 0.050" for a given advertised duration.

I can't imagine a reason why you would want to use an old style cam like the mp. If you want more top end go up a size on the Voodoo.

I am using a Comp Extreme Energy XE268H cam in my 360 and it pulls hard from below 1500 rpm all the way to 6500. It idles smooth and can pull away cleanly from a stop at 800-900 rpm.
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  #5  
Old 10-07-2006, 03:33 PM
mhenesian mhenesian is offline
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Hi Darkside,

I agree with the posts above. Smart guys ! If this cam is going into a 383 in a strictly street application, I'd definitely go with the 268 Voodoo cam. It's a step up from the original 383/440 magnum grind. I used the 280/0.474" purple shaft when it first came out in a 9.5:1 383, and I was disappointed to say the least. Flat power above 5000 rpm. Couldn't even pull as hard as the old Hemi grind (284/0.471" 108 LCA) that it replaced. If you have a 440, you could go up the next step to the 268/276 .494/.513" Voodoo cam. You'll need better than stock springs, Lunati, Crane, Comp, or street hemi type,

Please let us know how it runs,

Mark H.

Darkside, I just noticed your other posts - if this cam is for your 10.25:1 440 in your Dodge Charger:

69 440 hp 30 over
kb 10.25 pistons
forged bottom end
906 or edelbrock rpm heads
mp 280 474 110 purple shaft
wieand duel plane intake
750 mighty demon
2400 stall
323 or 355 gears

definitely consider the hotter Voodoo cams.

You could also run the 284/0.484" Mopar grind (238 deg at 0.050") with outstanding results. For a "wild" combo, particularly with the RPM heads, the 292/0.509" Mopar grind (250 deg at 0.050") will scare your neighbors ! Install the two Mopar cams above advanced 4 crank degrees. This will work better with the 2400 rpm stall. Voodoo, Crane, Comp cams are already ground 4 degrees advanced (usually), Mopar cams are not ! Never install the Mopar cams retarded unless you want to kill-off the bottom end torque and purposely ruin the idle.

Mark H.

Last edited by mhenesian : 10-07-2006 at 03:59 PM.
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  #6  
Old 10-13-2006, 04:36 PM
darkside darkside is offline
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I decided to order the 262/268 475/494 112 lsa voodoo cam for my 440 build.I sent the 280 474 purple shaft cam back.Has anyone ever had any experience with this voodoo stick?I hope it puts down good numbers.

69 440 hp 30 over
ballanced and blue printed
10.25 kb pistons
ported 906's
weiand action plus duel plane intake
mighty demon 750
headers
175k converter
323 gears with 25 inch tall tires

Last edited by darkside : 10-13-2006 at 04:39 PM.
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  #7  
Old 10-18-2006, 05:19 PM
crisser crisser is offline
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The Voodoo cams are the same as an Ultradyne cam. They are the "new" grinds that Lunati has. Harold took these to Lunati when Ultradyne closed.
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  #8  
Old 10-18-2006, 08:43 PM
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dave571 dave571 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darkside
69 440 hp 30 over
ballanced and blue printed
10.25 kb pistons
ported 906's
weiand action plus duel plane intake
mighty demon 750
headers
175k converter
323 gears with 25 inch tall tires
What is a 175 K converter?
If it stalls at 1750, that is really really mild. Like 440 imperial mild.

Short tire, with the 323's will work, but I would still go with more stall.

A good converter will drive like a stocker with better performance. I run a 9.5" dynamic that flashes between 3400, and 3600. VERY good street manners also. You don't need to rev it up to 3500 to move. It will drive away at idle, no problem. my.02
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  #9  
Old 10-18-2006, 09:20 PM
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Shaun Shaun is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dave571
What is a 175 K converter?
That's great! I know what it is,but I couldn't help myself-had to let loose a good laugh. It's a Mopar Performance Converter-can't remember what stall,but they are all too low(if you ask me).
Darkside,what is the numbers on your KB's? 14030? You are saying 10.25-1 CR and you are running 906's? What's your head to piston clearance? And are they all the same? Did you have your block parallel decked? Chambers cc'd? If not,and you have the ful 10.25-1 CR,you may be in trouble,unless you have the proper quench,run the right plugs and polished your combustion chambers really smooth. Stainless valves help too. I'd stay with a bigger cam. You are pushing it. Detonation is right around the corner.
Shaun
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  #10  
Old 10-19-2006, 11:22 AM
darkside darkside is offline
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the mopar 175k converter is about a 2400 -2500 stall, mancini racing sells these for $199.99
the motor is going to the machine shop,they will deck the block a little I'm sure,I haven't really decided what all I'm going to do to it,I'm meeting with the engine builder tomorrow.what compression should i go with?He suggested 10.25 kb's.I am going to run 906's and the voodoo stick.

Last edited by darkside : 10-19-2006 at 11:27 AM.
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  #11  
Old 10-19-2006, 09:06 PM
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Shaun Shaun is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darkside
the mopar 175k converter is about a 2400 -2500 stall, mancini racing sells these for $199.99.
This converter will like a cam with 230-236* at .050 duration.
[/quote]the motor is going to the machine shop,they will deck the block a little I'm sure,[/quote]
Keith Black recommends it,to get the proper quench,proper deck height-I suggest you have them parallel deck it(this will give you the same deck height on both sides and that means closer to your goal-to get all the holes at the exact CR and every piston to get within .040 of the head-all the very same)
[/quote]I haven't really decided what all I'm going to do to it,I'm meeting with the engine builder tomorrow.what compression should i go with?He suggested 10.25 kb's.I am going to run 906's and the voodoo stick.[/quote]
I suggest the works. Why do it half arsed? Align bore the mains,parallel deck it,torque plate bore and hone to final size of the cyls,re-sized rods,or new ones,balanced with a forged crank(internal),have the heads all done(hardened ex seats and all seats cut with a 70* bottom cut and blended,and don't forget the Mopar Template porting at least). They'll probably take .015 off your block,so don't let them get carried away on your heads-just enough to straighten them up.Remember,your pushrod length keeps getting shorter,the more you take off the heads and block,so you'll need adjustable rockers(rollers),or custom pushrods. And your mani will be hard pressed to fit,when you get passed the .027 mark(total-block + heads).
If you run a good tight piston to head clearance-I suggest .040 with the stocker rods and .035 with lighter ones,polish the combustion chambers,run a medium cam(at least 230 at .050 duration) and cold plugs(make sure your timing is at about 5* advanced to start with),you should be able to run 10-1 on 91,or 92 Octane. Just be careful.
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  #12  
Old 10-23-2006, 09:33 AM
darkside darkside is offline
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The builder suggested running the kb237 flat tops,decking the block .020 he said that should yeild around 9.8 compression with the 906 heads.
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