727 tranny - no kickdown and shifts way to quick

[QUADDAK]

My 727 behind my 440 is shifting way too soon. Also has no kickdown what so ever. Turning a corner it doesn't shift out of 3rd.

Also something I noticed while restoring the car, the challenger is hard to push backward and when I start the car in the morning, it wants to move forward.

Any idea of what is going on? It does have a shift kit, was installed when I bought the car. Also it performs real well when maually shifting. Barks the tires pretty good on the 2nd gear shift.

I am thinking of getting the Lokar kickdown. Could this be a kickdown adjustment issue or a band adjustment issue?

[360duster74]

Sometime that can be in your linkage. How long has it been like that?

[sundrop_440]

it sounds like your shift selector maybe out of adjustment, for the creeping at startup,but it should be creeping backward,you may have deeper problems, running without a kickdown is not good on a tranny you create alot of unwanted pressures that can damage your tranny,that being said I have and strongly suggest the lokar kit, it comes with everything you need but the bracket at the carb, I made my own or you now can buy one to fit edelbrock carbs.I first would place your shifter in park and disconnect the linkage and see if the arm will drop into the hole without forcing it forward or back if not adjust the threads so it will, while making sure the shift arm on the tranny is all the way into park, and check all the linkage for any sloppyness.

[John Kunkel]

Originally Posted by QUADDAK

My 727 behind my 440 is shifting way too soon. Also . Turning a corner it doesn't shift out of 3rd.

When you say "has no kickdown what so ever' do you mean the linkage is missing or that it won't kickdown at WOT? Unless the trans is a '71 and later with part throttle kickdown it won't down shift when turning a corner.

Also something I noticed while restoring the car, the challenger is hard to push backward and when I start the car in the morning, it wants to move forward.

This is indicative of a rear clutch that's set up too tight. If you put it in Neutral will it actually drive forward or just lurch?

I am thinking of getting the Lokar kickdown. Could this be a kickdown adjustment issue or a band adjustment issue?

If the car currently has linkage I would play with the adjustment, the Lokar can be problematic. Band adjustment has nothing to do with with your problems.

[QUADDAK]

Thanks John, I was hoping you would have some comments.

Originally Posted by John Kunkel

When you say "has no kickdown what so ever' do you mean the linkage is missing or that it won't kickdown at WOT? Unless the trans is a '71 and later with part throttle kickdown it won't down shift when turning a corner.



This is indicative of a rear clutch that's set up too tight. If you put it in Neutral will it actually drive forward or just lurch?

If the car currently has linkage I would play with the adjustment, the Lokar can be problematic. Band adjustment has nothing to do with with your problems.

It has kickdown linkage, it just doesn't kickdown when I punch it. The transmission came out of a 72 Cornet.

If its in Neutral and I start it, it lurches, it will not move the car at all simply lurches forward a bit. Do you feel like it needs adjustment?

The linkage does have an adjustment on it but I not sure if I am adjusting it right. This is how I am doing it.
I loosen the adjustment bolt, and open the throttle to WOT. I then push the kickdown rod as far back into the kickdown position as possible and tighten the bolt.

Another problem is startup in the morning, I have convertor drain back and have to put it in neutral for a few minutes before it wants to move.

[John Kunkel]

Originally Posted by QUADDAK

If its in Neutral and I start it, it lurches, it will not move the car at all simply lurches forward a bit. Do you feel like it needs adjustment?

Unless the shift linkage is way off there is no adjustment, the clutch pack is just too tight.

The linkage does have an adjustment on it but I not sure if I am adjusting it right. This is how I am doing it.
I loosen the adjustment bolt, and open the throttle to WOT. I then push the kickdown rod as far back into the kickdown position as possible and tighten the bolt.

Sometimes WOT under the hood is different than WOT from inside the car, have someone sit in the car and stomp the throttle to be sure the carb is actually opening all the way. If the carb is opening all the way and adjusting it at WOT results in early shifts and no kickdown, there is another problem.

Another problem is startup in the morning, I have convertor drain back and have to put it in neutral for a few minutes before it wants to move.

Not usually "a problem" it's fairly common but if it actually takes a couple of minutes to fill the converter when in Neutral something's wrong; it should only take a few seconds.

[george a nilsen]

ask the guy you got the car from if the tranny has automatic features...it could be set up as a manual shift automatic tranny...thats a possiblity.

[pishta]

Originally Posted by John Kunkel

Unless the shift linkage is way off there is no adjustment, the clutch pack is just too tight.




Sometimes WOT under the hood is different than WOT from inside the car, have someone sit in the car and stomp the throttle to be sure the carb is actually opening all the way. If the carb is opening all the way and adjusting it at WOT results in early shifts and no kickdown, there is another problem.





Not usually "a problem" it's fairly common but if it actually takes a couple of minutes to fill the converter when in Neutral something's wrong; it should only take a few seconds.

TransGo sells a new spool valve that stops the drainback in 727's, called a "no Yo-Yo" kit. My first 340/727 would shift into 3rd before getting to the other crosswalk, adjusted kickdown and it was alot better. Installed a shift kit and it was better still.

[QUADDAK]

Can you guys tell me the proper way to adjust the kickdown on a 727?

[QUADDAK]

I did a search and found this by John, should this be the adjustment process I should be using?

"I would measure the total travel of the trans lever first and then adjust the carb attach point to closely duplicate that dimension."

[dodger1]

John's way worked fine for me when I installed the Lokar k.d. and throttle set-up.

[John Kunkel]

If the linkage and all associated parts are factory stock, this is the adjustment procedure:

[dodger1]

Maybe a sticky should be created with this as the question seems to arise frequently. (Thanks JK!!)

[Jack_440 Savoy]

John, Would you have the page for the single rod type, kick down linkage with instructions

[John Kunkel]

The adjustment procedure with the single rod is basically the same except the adjustment is made at the swivel on the transmission end.

Loosen the bolt on the swivel so the rod is free to slide through it then hold the lever full forward while pushing the rod forward as far as it will go and tighten the bolt. The rear of the slot on the top link should rest against the back of the carb pin. Be sure there is a spring pulling the linkage forward.

[QUADDAK]

Originally Posted by John Kunkel

Sometimes WOT under the hood is different than WOT from inside the car, have someone sit in the car and stomp the throttle to be sure the carb is actually opening all the way. If the carb is opening all the way and adjusting it at WOT results in early shifts and no kickdown, there is another problem.

You hit on the head. The carb linkage was not give me full throttle, about 90%. After adjusting it kicks in just fine now. Shifts into 3rd about 30 mph or so. It use to be in 3rd by 20.

Also the slipping in the morning is probably the 3000 stall convertor. I'm not use to one with that much slack.

Thanks everyone.