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  #1  
Old 06-15-2009, 12:54 PM
57D100 pickup 57D100 pickup is offline
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Confused Chrysler 413

Hi Folks
I am new to this so you will find mistakes. I have a 1972 Chrysler 413 Motor home engine. Following info. 6 bolt rear main flange, additional cooling passages in the heads, 727 transmission, #1 and #5 cylinders have damage do to broken rings, crank and cam are in great shape, has a water pump that is the biggest I have ever seen, Motor is very clean inside, 14,000 miles on engine and transmission. My goal will be a motor that sounds good, burns the tires off and not ashamed to open the hood. I have been told that this motor is worthless and that proformance heads are not going to fit this block and it will leak water because the water passages will not line up if I use other heads, want beable to find intake manifold to fit, you cannot hopup a motor that came as a option in a gas driven Mack Truck. I need guidence and help. Is this something that belongs in the dumpster? Paid $800 for motor and transmission. I have a running 318 and 727 transmission combo,
would money be better spent on this? I can follow directions, so bring it on!
Thanking everyone inadvance.
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  #2  
Old 06-15-2009, 04:15 PM
57D100 pickup 57D100 pickup is offline
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Confused 413 Chrysler Motorhome Engine is it JUNK?

I am new to this so help me out please! Have a 57 D100 pickup. I have a 413 Chrysler Motorhome engine, additional water passages in the heads, #1 and #5 cylinder have slight to moderate broken ring damage, crank and cam in great shape, motor only has 14,000 miles on it, nice and clean. I have been told that there are no preformance parts and for the most part it is junk.
Other heads will fit but water passages will not line up. Over all intent is a motor that will burn the tires, sound great, and looks good under the hood. Has a 727 transmission hooked to it. I have a 318 with a 727 hooked to it. Runs great. Would it be better to spend money on 318 or 413? The difference is in preception. I have installed a trianglated 4 link and independent front suspension and boxed the frame and cr
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  #3  
Old 06-15-2009, 10:33 PM
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RAMIN DAN RAMIN DAN is offline
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What are the casting numbers on the heads
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  #4  
Old 06-15-2009, 11:02 PM
aarracer aarracer is offline
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57D100 pickup

Try to get your money back. It's possibly a useless core at best.
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  #5  
Old 06-15-2009, 11:46 PM
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adodgemann adodgemann is offline
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Motor home 413's short block is the same as a car version. Ditch the heads, water pump and cam. 906 heads will bolt right on, no mod's. Add the car style water pump. Any RB intake will work. If it has the real thick, smaller diameter harmonic balancer that won't work with car style acc's. So ya will need a car style balancer and timing cover. Will have the good steel crank, it's the same stroke as the 440. Bore it 60 over and make a 426 wedge clone. Oil pan and pickup tube may or may not work for your 57 D100 truck. Some had a front sump, may hit your strait axle, some had a rear sump too. I ran 1 in my 78 magnum endro, circle track race car. I spun it 6200 all day long, bone stock short block. 413's make a ton of torque, even more than a 440. 727 tranny, if it has the bolt on driveshaft, won't work in a car. It's the same 727 as used in the early 4X4's with the divorced transfer case. If your putting it in the 57 D100 ya probably make it work with a custom driveshaft. Could even used the parking brake on the tail shaft. Not the easyest to use in a car or pickup, but it can be done........Opp's, reread your post, your strait axle is now gone. Sounds like ya may need the car style, center sump oil pan..... Or maybe a rear sump might work....

Last edited by adodgemann : 06-15-2009 at 11:55 PM. Reason: add
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  #6  
Old 06-16-2009, 12:14 AM
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57 is unique looking rig.

I think you would not be crazy to use the 413 as is(as far as heads, bore etc..)
Try a small cam upgrade, and minor port work.

Headers or manifolds with a funky paint scheme, or whatever. Lots of hot rods run manifolds.

The 800 bucks was nothing short of a scam(sorry). It's under the bridge now, so move forward and make the best of it. The 413 can be a nice driver in a street rod, without going nuts.

You can use a water pump housing from something newer if you like. Some great info on www.440source.com
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  #7  
Old 06-16-2009, 01:38 PM
Greg55_99 Greg55_99 is offline
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Well, I guess you're going to duplicate something I did 30 years ago. So, I'll tell you. At the time, I came on a "good deal". That is a 413 motor home engine in pieces under a machine shop table. The motor had less than a thousand miles on it because the motor home it was in burned down around it. I bought the motor with visions of sugar plums in my head. In the end, the only things I kept from the original motor was the block, crank and rods. Everything else, and I mean EVERYTHING went out the window. Heads got swappped for 440 items. Intake from Weiand. Couldn't use the cam or even the cam sprocket because the 413 version I had used a gear driven cam that turned backwards. Couldn't even use the rockers and pushrods. Water pump and housing? Nope. Balancer? Oil pan? Uh uh... Distributor? Pistons? Forget it. In other words, I had to nearly buy a complete 440 just to get the parts to put the 413 into a car. And in the end... I had a 413... down on cubes from a 440. So... that's the deal. If I had to do it over again today... I'd go for a stroked 400. Just me....

I still have the engine....

Greg
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  #8  
Old 06-16-2009, 07:52 PM
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For the unititiated, Greg...

How much of that is also true for the Motorhome 440?
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  #9  
Old 06-16-2009, 09:22 PM
Greg55_99 Greg55_99 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray Bell View Post
For the unititiated, Greg...

How much of that is also true for the Motorhome 440?
I couldn't swear to it Ray, but I'd have to say they have the same issues. A motor home 440 would probably be OK to start with, bearing in mind that you'd have to pitch everything except the block, crank and rods. I really don't see any advantage in using one other than they aren't revved to much....

BTW, you wouldn't know where I could get a block girdle for a P76 motor would you?

Greg
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  #10  
Old 06-17-2009, 06:18 PM
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Ray Bell Ray Bell is offline
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Hmmm... never heard of such a thing existing...

Repco used to use a dural plate across the bottom of the Olds blocks (same genre) when they used them in Formula One, but otherwise, no idea.

Is there a P76 forum somewhere?

Do you have a P76 engine? Or a Rover?
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  #11  
Old 06-17-2009, 06:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray Bell View Post
Hmmm... never heard of such a thing existing...

Repco used to use a dural plate across the bottom of the Olds blocks (same genre) when they used them in Formula One, but otherwise, no idea.

Is there a P76 forum somewhere?

Do you have a P76 engine? Or a Rover?
Those olds engines had a weak block block design when used for a high output (racing) applications. (that's why the needed the "dural plate" to stiffen the bottom ends) When they tried making them into a diesel engines in the late 70's it was a disaster. They puked out their bottom ends regularly. To this day Americans are afraid of diesels due to this lousy design.
Big block Mopar engines have a strong bottom end that will take a lot of abuse, Until you really start making big H.P. (and spinning them high RPM's) then they need help.
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  #12  
Old 06-17-2009, 07:08 PM
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Yeah, I realise that...

Apparently, with high outputs they tend to like to spread the angle of the vee somewhat, crack down the camshaft line. This is the alloy block, of course, basically shared by the Tempest, F85 and the little Buick whose name escapes me... rights sold off to Rover, used in 3500, Range Rover and later Landrover applications, stretched out to 4.9 litres in the end.

The P76 (and Leyland Terrier trucks in Australia only) had a 4.4-litre version, built into a block with 1" taller decks. These engines were wholly made in Australia, still in alloy with iron cylinder liners.

I recall that Frank Ure, a local sports sedan racer, used the inlet manifold he made with extra bracing to try and keep the block from spreading. I think it worked too, undoubtedly he paid some special attention to dowels between the head and block.

Repco used them for Tasman and F1 engines in '66 and early '67 before they started casting their own blocks, they went to 4.4 litres with them in single overhead cam form.
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