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#1
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Anybody out there running an ultradyne cam?Are they worth it?I've been thinking about one for my 440.specificly the NF60 251@.050 .570 lift.
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#2
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We built a 440 for a customer last year and used the UD cam with .613 lift.I think they are great camshafts myself.They have a fast ramp speed and take advantage of the Chrysler lifter size.The new .640 lift cam they have acts just like a roller.I'm putting in a .613 in my new 440 if that tells you anything on how I like them.
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#3
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I think the ultradyne is a great cam. I have the 640 in a dragster it seems to have a smoother torque curve than other cams i have ran not to mention more horsepower
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#4
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None better..
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#5
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I am useing the NF69/.640 lift Ultradyne in my 440 & am happy with it's performance.
------------------ BFRACN |
#6
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I think it depends on your needs,I am running the NF57 with 1.6 rockers but I don't take it to the track more than twice a year and lucky to get to drive it a dozen times during the summer due to my work,I think in my case I could have saved half the cash and bought the MP .590 cam and been just as happy,the ultradyne was $199 and the lifters were another $75 and I can buy .590's all day long for $130 lifters and all at my local dealer but I am happy with my ultradyne.
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#7
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I would like to thank everyone for your replys.I've ordered one from muscle motors.I'm building another 440 for my 68 dart using the street/strip recipe in the new big block book from them.That Chuck Sanatore sure seems like a good guy to deal with.By the way Brian-wo,I got busted at work today showing off your burnout movie on your web site.AWESOME BURNOUT!I just hope they dont websense your website at work cause Everybody loves it.(except management)!
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#8
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You mentioned the muscle motors book and the street strip recipe inside. Could you give the specs of motors they give recipes for (HP / torque). I just put a 440 into my 65 coronet and have a 383 block from it that i'd like to make a 431 or 451 out of.
-David |
#9
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I'd suggest getting the book that Chuck Senatore of Muscle Motors wrote.It's called Big Block Mopar Performance or something similar to that.I got a copy off of Amazon.com and had it sent to the house.It's a good book,covers all of the stuff that the Mopar speed secrets book doesn't,and has updated info.
[This message has been edited by Christopher (edited February 12, 2000).] |
#10
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sorry I got you in trouble with my burnout video and did you see the place in the backround? they deal mainly in 5.0 stuff and I have known the guy that runs that place for years and don't much care for him so I figured what better place to do it and for the guy wanting to build a 431 thats what is in the coronet and it burns the tires at will,I took a buddy for a ride a while back and didn't see him start to take a drink of his pop just as I nailed it so he got a bath as the tires squealed all the way through drive,ahhhhh what a wonderfull feeling
I was able to talk to chuck this past summer at the nats and he was a great guy to talk to,he even remembered me from e-mails I had sent him asking advise for myself and a buddy who is not online,so I bought his book from amazon also and while it's not bad I feel he missed a few areas and the one that stuck out the most was oiling,unless I missed it I never saw anything about opening up the oil passage on the #4 main. I would have one suggestion for anyone building a 383-400 in to a stroker and thats either use the 440 rod or don't cut the mains down,I built mine with 383 rods because I got a deal on the pistons and block but after cutting the mains the pistons were heavy enough that now that the crank was not so it need weight added. |
#11
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Yes, get the Senatore book, got a lot of good stuff: http://www.victorylibrary.com/MoPar-books.htm#BBMP
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#12
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Quote:
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#13
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http://www.geocities.com/wo23dodge/
just click on the picture of the car and it will down load,it's about 1.3 meg so if your on a phone modem it will take a few minutes to get but it's pretty good. |
#14
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Do they have a web site?
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#15
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It seems everyone agrees the MP 509 cam works well. But I plan to run a full exhaust system with an H-pipe and dual mufflers, and 1972 346 heads.
To help push the exhaust through, I was thinking of using a cam with a little more exhaust duration than intake. What do you think? Here is an example comparison using a Lunati Lift Duration Duration Lobe I/E at 0.050 advertised Sep. MP 509: .509/.509 248/248 292/292 108 L 30307:.520/.547 240/250 290/300 110 ------------------ 440 Jim E-Body Fish |
#16
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#17
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Ultradyne
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#18
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The Ultradyne SPANKS the hell out of the Mopar and Lunati comparable cams. Oh, let's add Comp cams to that spankin' too.
The 304/312 Ultradyne cam I had in my 400 walked the dog on 440's with comparable cams from MP. Lunati, and Comp. What else can we tell ya'? Get the Ultradyne. The difference is, and I'd have to admit the Mp and Lunati and Comp cams hit harder on the lope and the Ultradyne is a faster smoother lope. But that SOB will wake up when you stop the gas - sounds like all hell is breakinbg loose. Add 150 or 200 nitrous to that....... get back. |
#19
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Does Ultradyne make a killer cam for a 360 and W2 heads, any ideas.
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#20
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I had an Ultradyne Tight Lash solid (NF50/NF51-F8) in a W-2 headed 360+.060". The engine had 12.0:1 Ross Pistons, Econo heads, and M-1 intake. The engine made 500 hp @ 6,000 rpm with this combo.
I personally don't like the W-2's on the 360. They don't seem to respond as well as they should from improved flow. Some of this can be blamed on my M-1's smallish plenum. Its lack of volume starvs the engine in my opinion. Also, the rpm range where the W-2 heads make the biggest difference is where the parasitic friction loss of the longer stroke seems to kick in. This is why I don't like the W-2's on 360's. I also have been running Reed Tight Lash cams and am happy with both. |
#21
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With regards to the W2, which manifolds works best? I want my street/strip '74 cuda to run in the 11's, also any advice on convertors(Rear ratio is 4:10), thanks for the help.
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#22
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If were talking the 360 engine, I have seen better times with the Victor 340. I have also seen other people knock off some serious time with it.
We run a 360+.030", KB 12.5:1 pistons, Old (15 years) Reed solid cam 252°@.050",stock unported(port matched) "Z" casting heads, Victor 340, Hedman Hussler 1-7/8" headers, Dynamic 8" custom convertor, 904 trans, 4.56:1 8-3/4", 926 cfm Carb Shop or 960 cfm BG carb, MSD 6AL, '70 Duster (gutted) and 9.00X28(.5?) Firestone slicks. Runs 11.78±.02 @ 112, from 60°F to 100°F without changing jets ever. We just put a new Ultradyne TL NF50/NF51-F6 cam in and freshened the engine. The trans went out for a brake and rebuild. We hope to see <11.50 this season. The engine is out of my Wissota Modified stock car and is an old claimer engine! We did all the block work one night during an all nighter. My engine builder is notoriously late(like there is any other type). I gave him the ultimatum, and we did all the work one night. This included decking(BHJ block trued), boring, torque plate honing, polishing the rods, resizing rods(big end) and balancing the rods and pistons. I walked out at 8:30 AM next morning with my engine. Sorry for the dissertation, but this engine and car combo kinda rocks and is worth replicating. The non-jet sensitivity is amazing. I think the engine likes the bigger plenum and bigger carbs. It runs 1.58±.02 60 foot times in all condit |
#23
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i
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