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  #49  
Old 03-16-2005, 11:45 AM
I8URACING I8URACING is offline
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Default Magnum Heads

Since I am running Magnum heads I do not have a way to oil to the heads without getting oil to the lifters.

The only thing the left side oil galley does is oil the left side lifters, unless I am missing something.

I plan on running a solid cam but I have yet to purchase it. I really want the Hughes pedistal mount rocker arms but they aren't currently available and Dave said he has no idea when they will be. He was talking to me about the oil through adjustable pushrods with the stock rockers but I am somewhat hesitant.

Last edited by I8URACING : 03-16-2005 at 11:50 AM.
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  #50  
Old 03-16-2005, 02:44 PM
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AVENGER29 AVENGER29 is offline
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we are now running Magnum heads, this all new to us, first of 3 engines has been converted. I'm not sure, how to resolve your issue, Sanborn need to jump in, we are restricted to a hydraulic cam, so we have modified and are oiling left side thru the lifter gallery, we tap in rear right side and run line to left front and we are using hollow adjustable push rods, and stock stamp rockers, not allowed any roller rockers or cams.
Have little experience with this set up, give us a few weeks and will let you know, thanks

Dodge29
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  #51  
Old 03-16-2005, 05:59 PM
I8URACING I8URACING is offline
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Default Oil filter

I have a question on the ports that leave the block where the oil filter use to be. I currently have them tapped for 3/8" NPT. Is there a connector that goes from 3/8" NPT to -12?

I can only find 1/2" NPT to -12 or 3/4" NPT to -12.
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  #52  
Old 03-16-2005, 06:12 PM
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dwc43 dwc43 is offline
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I checked my books and Aeroquip shows a 3/8 to 10 as the biggest 3/8 conversion. All the 12 are converted from 3/4. You may have to use two adapters to get what you want. or use a 3/8 to 10 line instead.
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  #53  
Old 06-10-2005, 05:05 PM
mightymouse mightymouse is offline
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3/8 NPT to AN12 is offered in a steel fitting. You will need to machine the ID to .400" in this particular fitting. If you can use 1/2NPT to AN12, these are offered in anodized aluminum with the correct ID sizing. I use them all over the car so they are easily available. I hope this helps
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  #54  
Old 07-13-2005, 10:49 AM
JC JC is offline
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Ok I can't put a photo up of this dual oil pump pick up that I cobbled togather, but I can tell you how to do it. All the parts can be bought from Kevco and canton oil pans. Buy both pick ups one from kevco and one from canton. (Cantons) p/u mounts to the bottom of the pump, and (Kevcos) p/u screws in from the side. Put the kevco p/u on get it in place, then take the canton p/u and remove the screen boxs just leave the just the tube. (you can not cut the tube off grind the welds loose) Slide the canton under the kevco p/u ( you can't bolt these up yet leave it loose) then where the tubes intersect mark the kevco screen box, and then you have to drill a hole in the side of it. It took a 5/8 bit. After you do this you mite have to ajust the tubes. (ball peen hammer) Bolt the kevco on and then slide the canton onto the bottom and into the hole you drill in the side of kevco p/u screen box and tighten every thing up you ready to go. The idea is to have two p/u points, one from the side and one on the bottem. And the the oil pan I used was Kevcos. Not sure if it will work with cantons but it should. I did this on my motor and it worked well. I know this thing is alittle pricey but think about the cost of your motor, it's well worth the 105 bucks or so to do this. JC
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  #55  
Old 11-21-2005, 10:36 PM
HM Race Engines HM Race Engines is offline
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Rice oiling system ? for sanborn

First I have a w2 head, x block with the copper tube in the right galley. I too want to oil through the push rod so I can install jesel or t&d rockers. I am looking for a guide tool for drilling the tube, a size to drill it and a size to drill the set screw plug in the front main web feeding the left galley. I have read a few of the posts and am not against joining the two lifter galleys in the valley with 1/8 pipe and #4 line. We are running an imca style modified and turn the motor between 7000 and 7800 using a flat tappet cam. also I heard it best to use a 210 radius push rod on the lifter end for oiling but could not understand why that was necessary. Also if you know anything about using a higher ratio rocker 1.7 or 1.8 that I may not want to incounter when I purchase them from jesel or T&D, like pushrod clearance issues, it would be helpful. I currnently run Crane 1.6 rockers and had to have pedastals made and install the oil hole in the head as the manufacture date was late enough that the T&D rockers were the recommened hardware. Thank you Sanborn for any bits of wisdom you could throw my way.
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  #56  
Old 11-22-2005, 07:22 PM
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chrisw21_2000 chrisw21_2000 is offline
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I have a 340 block. I want to run a roller cam in it. My question is, with jesel rockers and roller lifters, what should I do about restricting oil from dumping out in the lifter bores? Will I have to run a copper tube in the left side with small holes drilled in each lifter bore? The other motor I have has the bronze bushings. I was thinking that would work with blocking off the right side and running a crossover tube, or also running tubing in the right bank with the small holes fed by a crossover. I'll be running a external wet sump pump, as dry sump isn't allowed in our limited class.

Thanks
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  #57  
Old 11-22-2005, 07:39 PM
JC JC is offline
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Ok 1 chrysler sells a jig for the lifters bores to be drilled and 2 you will need to block off both sides of the lifters for a roller and use the same type of jig to drill oil hole if you oil through the push rods. Not sure about bit size I'll look it up and if you install a copper tube dont drill out the # 1 main I think the tube will block it off if I'm thinking right. Sorry Sanborn not tring to step on any toes, You are the man. JC
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  #58  
Old 11-22-2005, 08:19 PM
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chrisw21_2000 chrisw21_2000 is offline
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So tube both sides, drill the holes for the lifters. Dont drill the hole coming up from #1 main to the right bank. Then I just drill up from the mains to the left bank like normal. Install a crossover tube to the right side. Will this give the pushrods/rockers enough oil?

Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by JC
Ok 1 chrysler sells a jig for the lifters bores to be drilled and 2 you will need to block off both sides of the lifters for a roller and use the same type of jig to drill oil hole if you oil through the push rods. Not sure about bit size I'll look it up and if you install a copper tube dont drill out the # 1 main I think the tube will block it off if I'm thinking right. Sorry Sanborn not tring to step on any toes, You are the man. JC
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  #59  
Old 11-22-2005, 08:38 PM
JC JC is offline
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Well I mite have biten off to much. Let go down to my shop and get my books, notes and look at something,so I dont stear you wronge. I know if you run a roller you have bush the lifter off or tube the block and drill them out for the amc style lifters. If not the oil will just blow out those big liter holes. And a copper tube is cheaper than bronze bushings. Remember all this work is to control the 16 leaks in the block and get the oil where you need it rockers and spings. I'm back the lifter jig part number is P5007728 and the bitt size is 3/16th But I have 1/8's drilled in mine. Nothing on paper to back it up, I run T&D and oil thru the push rods and I have not burned up any push rod tips or rockers. I have both sides blocked off but I still oil from the crank for the left & right side. I need to put that cross over tube in. sanborn gona have to jump in on this one.

Last edited by JC : 11-22-2005 at 09:31 PM.
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  #60  
Old 11-22-2005, 09:42 PM
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chrisw21_2000 chrisw21_2000 is offline
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the amc lifters you speak of, what are different about them compared to the standard roller lifters? I have a set of the normal roller 59* lifters. I was just worried that the oil would just dump out with a high lift cam, and not supply enough oil to the rocker gear.

I thank you for your help!
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