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  #1  
Old 11-07-2002, 11:40 PM
DEMON SIZZLER DEMON SIZZLER is offline
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Post ThermoQuads 101: the basics.

What I am going to attempt to convey in this post is:

how to id your T.Q.,
how to dissasemble it,
how to clean it(parts too),
how to reasemble it,
basic tweaking,
how to pick the best carb,
how to quickly id the carb,
what parts are available new.

First , let me begin by saying that the ThermoQuad is not too
complicated to understand, but that depending on what carb you
choose and what application it is intended for is most important.
The following info is very useful in selecting a really good baseline carb and you will benefit greatly if your choice is based on the info given, so lets get started.

When you are ready to choose a buildable or suitable carb, first
turn the carb upside down and read the #'s stamped on the primary butterflies. The #'s will be 3 possibilities:
1)2-310 or 2) 2-315 which will allways indicate an 800 cfm carb,
3)2-314 which will allways indicate an 850 cfm carb.
The large secondary butterflies are allways the same size, 2-1/4".

You have 3 important part #'s that id the carb as well:
1)the top plate casting #,
2)the bowl #,
3)the base plate # which will also id the carb's origional application and is found on the driver rear corner of the base plate(4 digit #); examples are:6322, 9014, 9097, 9207 ect.

ThermoQuads were available in 800, 850 and 1,000 cfm ratings and there are 4 sub groups which are:
1)the first run #4846s and #4847s from about 1969 to late 1971
as the aftermarket Competition Series 850 and 1,000 cfm ratings. These(all)carbs were never oem carbs(same for the 1971-1973 Competition Series carbs**see #2 below). The 69-71 carbs had press-in primary/2ndary jets and are not available new.
2)next is the 1971-1973 Competion Series T.Q.'s #4846sa and #4847sa; 850 and 1,000 cfm's respectively and had screw-in jetting, the same as the 1971 1 year only 340 oem carb and the same style metering rods were used on all C.S. and 71 340 carbs.
3)the 1971 ThermoQuad #4972-4 spd or 4973-auto carbs. These carbs are based on the C.S. series carbs but were 800 cfms. Most of these carbs were replaced with the 1972 carbs.
4)the 1972-1974 carbs are the best all-around carbs because these carbs have the least smog implimentation and can be used on virtually any V-8 engine and will deliver very good power #'s
and exceptional gas mileage.
**The 1974 carb has a different boss and accelerator pump lever arm which remained throughout the production of the carbs and a different actuating lever for the accelerator pump link rod, so if you "mix" 72/73 tops with 74 bases and vice versa, you will have to reshape the pump arm link rod.
The 1975 to early 1978 carbs(except truck 440 carbs from 1974-1977)have smog implimented devices that will not readily make for a good performimg/tuneable carb on a cammed up/hopped up engine, so these carbs will need special attention/mods to the top plate/base plate but then will perform as well as a 1972-1974 carb. The late 1978-1984 carbs will in some cases, require a few more mods than the 1975-early 78 carbs but have even better
idle/off idle circuitry and are therefore more "tuneable" than any other year carbs.
The very last run of the T.Q. was the SuperQuad and it was intended to be an aftermarket replacement for all oem T.Q.'s and was rated @ 800 cfm's. This carb was based on the 1975 carbs and had an integral 12 volt choke system.
***Three noteable acceptions were:
1)the 1974 Ford 460 T.Q.'S; 800 cfm carbs;
2)the 1973-1979 International 345/392 truck T.Q.'S;
3)Austrailan Ford T.Q.'S.

Dissasembly proceedures:
start by removing all external linkages;
1)remove the choke pull-off linkage rod at both ends,
2)remove the ckoke plate/attaching rod/linkage rod that connects to the lever above the 2ndary air door,
3)remove the accelerator pump linkage rod,
4)remove the rear 2ndary lock out rod attached to the tear shaped tang:
a)on 1971/1973 carbs, the tear shaped tang was held on with a screw,
b)on 1974-1984 carbs(SuperQuad too)the tear shaped tang is bradded, so removal of the linkage rod is done by turning the loosened tp plate upside down over the bowl and fliping the tang up and manuvering the rod end out of the tang.
5)remove the cover plates to the outside of the metering rods,
6)remove the metering rod piston stop and pull it up by the outer ends/with the metering rods/spring,
7)remove the 10 screws(*two are down in the choke tower towards the back inside wall),
8)remove the accelerator nozzle cluster, and brass check valve,
9)remove the pump arm/attaching screw,
10)remove the accelerator pump by tapping the exposed end
at the top plate casting with an equal diameter punch or bolt and support the top so the whole pump/spring/cover on the bottom side will come out of the top plate***dont loose the spring!!!
11)carefully speprate the top plate/mid section(bowl) and base plate,
12)keep the bowl in the base plate and remove the primary jets from the bowl(brass jets/2,
13)remove the 2 old o-rings from the deep well area to the outside of the primary bores in the bowl,
remove the float pins/floats from the top plate,
14)remove the needles/seats/gaskets(use a dental pick),
remove the two(long brass)2ndary jets from the underside of the top plate,
15)remove the plastic transfer tube between the accelerator
pump housing and the underside of the accelerator pump cluster from the underside of the top plate,
16)remove the screw/choke pull-off,
17)remove the metering rod step up assembly from front of the base plate ,

To clean everything, I use purple cleaner and or carb cleaner spray and use a soft nylon and steel brush on the top plate and base plate and use only the nylon bristle grush on the bowl to clean it. Use an old GO JO can to put all the small parts in with the cleaner and swish it around to clean up the parts.

Closely inspect the accelerator pump well walls for pitting/scoring
or old dried gas and as long as the pitting is not present, and you do not sand the id of the well, you should be ok with a smooth id.
As allways, make sure that there is no binding with the butterflies/shafts as you open and close them.
If there is any aluminum oxidation on the underside of the top
plate, use The Works toilet cleaner on the underside of the top plate(do not get it in the pump well)and use a brush and let it foam up for about 1.5 to 2 min(chemical reaction with the aluminum will take place and heat up the top){wear gloves}and rince thoroughly with water hose outdoors-this is hydrocholoric acid!!!. This process will remove all oxidation if done properly
and repeat as necessary. Dry the aluminum well or it will oxidize again. Just clean like crazy until you cut all the grease/grime.........
you get out of something what you put into it.

To reassemble the carb, follow a few basic quide lines:
1)reverse all the above and:
a)install the 2ndary jets before you install/set the float levels/install the floats,
b)install the new needle seat gaskets by sliding them over one of the 10 long assembly scews and dropping it into the seat holes in the top plate,
c)drop in the 2 o-rings into the bowl the above method,
d)place the bowl in the base plate to install the primary jets; I allways pour a small amount of transmission fluid into a plastic
Coke cap and lube EVERY screw before it is screwed in place as well as all the jets/metering rod piston.
e)allways tork the 140 assembly screws the following method:
first barely seat each screw going 1-10 and repeat the order 4 times, snuging each screw each of the 4 rotations:


x(8) x(7)

x(4) x(3)


x(1) x(2)

x(5) x(6)


x(9) x(10)

f)screw the center slot in the metering rod top counter-clockwise while you push down lightly(after assembly of the carb)
and the piston will keep dropping down; when it stops dropping
down, turn the adjuster screw slot cockwise and just as the piston starts up, turn the adjuster slot 1 full turn to correctly adjust the tree,
g)with the choke pull-off plunger pushed in, adjust the air door by pushing down on one of the air door dimples; the drop before tension on the air door should be .100" for a cammed up engine and .180" on a mild engine or heavy vehicle(over 3,400 lbs).
This is the very BEST method for "dialing-in" the 2ndary air door.
h)for a mild engine, drill the accelerator pump nozzle ids to .031"
and for a more radical engine, start at about .034".

New parts available are:
1)new bowls for the 1972-up carbs, 800 and 850 cfm's;
2)new primary jets, .090"-.105" ids,
3)new 2ndary jets, .100"-.180" ids,
4)new kits for ALL T.Q.'S,
5)new choke pull-offs for all T.Q.'s,
6)new brass floats for all T.Q.'s,
7)new o-rings,
8)new accelerator pump nozzle check valves,
9)new accelerator pumps,
10)new accelerator pump springs,
11)new metering rod piston springs,
12)new gaskets,
13)new 22 degree taper(the good ones)idle mix screws,
14)new accelerator pump well covers,
15)new choke thermostats,
16)new pump arm screws.

I am constantly "looking" for ways to improve the performance and tuneability of these carbs and want very much to see that these carbs are around for a long time to come. I am in the process of finding/drawing up the blueprints to have jets/metering rods made for all models of the ThermoQuad, so if you have any questions/suggestions-positive only, I'm all ears!.
DAVID.

demonsizzler1@cswebmail.com
geocities.com/thermoquads


2
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Thermoquads made to perform!
Stock, street/strip and 1,000 cfm race carbs; also new parts for
Competition Series, 1971, 72-84
and SuperQuads at:
www.thermoquads.com
e-mail: demonsizzler1@cswebmail.com

Last edited by DEMON SIZZLER; 11-08-2002 at 12:44 AM..
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  #2  
Old 11-08-2002, 12:35 AM
TheTanSedan TheTanSedan is offline
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Default T-Quads

This kind of thread is appreciated, I find I am recommending this forum more and more often. Looks like I may have to ditch the Q-Jet after all. Great work, David, please continue.
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  #3  
Old 11-08-2002, 02:01 AM
5thAve 5thAve is offline
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Yeah, a BIG thanks David A lot of people appreciate what you're doing.
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  #4  
Old 11-08-2002, 04:44 PM
71SATELITE 71SATELITE is offline
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That reminds me, anybody want to buy a Holley 600? Cheap! For real.
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  #5  
Old 11-08-2002, 05:20 PM
DEMON SIZZLER DEMON SIZZLER is offline
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Thanks loyal T.Q.'ers!!! I'm ALLWAYS eager to help other Mopar enthusiasts with T.Q. questions/tuning issues.

I debated for a long time about disclosing my secret weapon, the
"well-prepped" T.Q. and after much thought and consideration, I am glad that I chose to help others. I am much more eager to help someone if I have the answers than I would be if I kept my
knowledge to myself and besides, I DO like helping others if I can.

I used to build Holleys for locals and myself, but over the years, I
wanted to set a new course for myself as well as find a "new" challenge and I found both in the T.Q. After all, I have found that
the T.Q. has a versatility that is unmatched by many other carbs.
I have had a dual four setup with 2 AFB'S on a 383 and a 440 and liked both alot. I have rebuilt Edelbrock Performers as well and Federal Mogul AFB'S and AVS carbs. The point is I DO like
other brands too, but I like the charateristics of a carb(T.Q.) that can be modified so easily and show so much improvement in performance vs having to buy so much additional parts to "dial it in"(which is a good thing, but expensive at times) and the carb might only work well on that specific engine that it was set up for.

For example, an 800 or 850 cfm T.Q. will run very well on a stock
single exhaust 318 where as other brands of 800 or 850 cfm carbs would never work on the 318. The same T.Q.'s would work well on a 340, 383 or 440 engine; again the versatility of the basic design. The main idle circuitry and the hi-speed circuitry are 2 of the main reasons why this is possible while the 3rd reason is
the 2ndary air doors ability to complete 2 functions:
1)the air door vertical travel under a load will increase or decrease the richness of the 2ndary jetting;
2)the air door tension will taylor the launch of the vehicle from a standstill or during WOT.

I do not know of any other carb that has such a "sophistocated"
metering system. The fact that the T.Q. can be used in three performance levels(stock, street/strip and full race)is testament to how good the carb is, DAVID.
__________________
Thermoquads made to perform!
Stock, street/strip and 1,000 cfm race carbs; also new parts for
Competition Series, 1971, 72-84
and SuperQuads at:
www.thermoquads.com
e-mail: demonsizzler1@cswebmail.com
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  #6  
Old 11-08-2002, 10:45 PM
Brian Mills Brian Mills is offline
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Very well put together thread David. In my time on this site I have seen many threads devoted to carb choice. TQ's were regarded as black magic and parts belonging to the dark side. Mopar Perf even recomended a Holley.

My Ramcharger 360 has a Thermoquad I installed to replace the factory Rottenchester which was used for 85 & 86.

My local re-builder shares your views on this carb, however I have an issue with the throttle shafts wearing their mounting holes oblong and leaking vaccum.

I have heard that a bushing kit was available for the TQ throttle shafts. This kit had a tapered ream that you used like a drill bit in a black and decker and oversized the throttle shaft holes to accomadate bushings.

The down side was that the ream is self centering, and follows the center of the oblong hole, and not the holes design center. This causes the throttle shafts to be installed off-center and the butterflies don't sit right in their seats. Again this is supposed to be cause for more problems.

I have a leaking one installed on the afore mentioned 360, sometimes it idles high due to vacumm leak, sometimes it doesn't.

I'd like to fix it!
Can you fix it?
What method would you use to fix it?
How much for the bushing work alone?
I could run a Carter 600 while it was gone.
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  #7  
Old 11-09-2002, 08:56 PM
dynorad dynorad is offline
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My TQ is rich in the secondaries. I read that you can adjust the mixture by chaning the stop position of the air door, But it doesn't look like there is much room to tweak it to me.
Should I just change the jets?
The A/F ratio is 10 to 11 from 3000 RPM up.
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  #8  
Old 11-09-2002, 10:07 PM
DEMON SIZZLER DEMON SIZZLER is offline
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Brian, I have a "custom" made ream with a pilot that is specifically for carbs with 3/8" shafts and I have used it successfully; the downside costwise is that the bushing(one is usually all that is needed)installation will require that the butterfly screws-all four on the primaries will have to be removed
by drilling the staked portion, removal of the shafts/tension springs/spacers. Then the shaft/associated parts will have to be
put back in the based plate and new screws will have to be installed, staked and contoured for air flow. This will cost $35 plus $5 per bushing, but it will be done right the first time.

Dynorad, for "tuning" the 2ndaries, for each .100" you adjust the vertical opening of the air door, you will notice a difference in performance; thus if you close down the vertical travel of the air door, you will:
a)richen the 2ndaries for two reasons:
1)there is less air entering into the 2ndaries,
2)the closer the 2 air door dimples are to the spray bars, the "stronger" the venturi effect is and this will pull more gas from the spray bars.
b)conversely when the air door dimples are farther from the spray
bars, the mixture will lean because:
1)there is more air entering into the 2ndaries,
2)the venturi effect is weaker and consequently there is less gas pulled from the spray bars.
Depending on the jet size on a stock T.Q., and the catual engine it is used on, will also effect the overall jetting of the 2ndaries but to less degree than the vertical travel of the air door.
__________________
Thermoquads made to perform!
Stock, street/strip and 1,000 cfm race carbs; also new parts for
Competition Series, 1971, 72-84
and SuperQuads at:
www.thermoquads.com
e-mail: demonsizzler1@cswebmail.com
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  #9  
Old 11-09-2002, 11:41 PM
Brian Mills Brian Mills is offline
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I'll be sending you a carburetor in the near future Dave.
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Old 11-11-2002, 11:43 PM
Bigfoot Bigfoot is offline
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Just a couple of points I want to get clear because I am new to the thermoquad. You said the following:

f)screw the center slot in the metering rod top counter-clockwise while you push down lightly(after assembly of the carb)
and the piston will keep dropping down; when it stops dropping
down, turn the adjuster screw slot cockwise and just as the piston starts up, turn the adjuster slot 1 full turn to correctly adjust the tree,
g)with the choke pull-off plunger pushed in, adjust the air door by pushing down on one of the air door dimples; the drop before tension on the air door should be .100" for a cammed up engine and .180" on a mild engine or heavy vehicle(over 3,400 lbs).
This is the very BEST method for "dialing-in" the 2ndary air door.
h)for a mild engine, drill the accelerator pump nozzle ids to .031"
and for a more radical engine, start at about .034".

Point "F" when you adjust the screw this just adjusts how far the needles come out of the jets when the throttle cam is raising the metering rod. So it isn't adjusting the air/fuel ratio, just how much gas volume is allowed into the engine?

Points "G + H" after playing around for nearly two hours one night trying to get my car to lauch without the dreaded "fall on your face and then go routine" it was ok but not great. The next day it was back to the same problem. I played with the secondary door tightness and noticed that after about 2 turns ccw it stopped making any difference no matter how tightly I wound the spring. Is the root of my problem the size of the nozzle ids and I need to expand it to as you recommed .031" and then play with the secondary door again? I am running a 5th ave. 318 mild engine with the smaller thermoquad.

Will the bigger thermoquad make any noticable difference to a 318? I have heard from some people that the bigger ones should be used on 360's and up were as the smaller ones are for 318's.
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  #11  
Old 11-12-2002, 10:27 AM
DEMON SIZZLER DEMON SIZZLER is offline
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Bigfoot, what part # is on the driver rear corner of the base plate of the T.Q. you are using? What smog equipment and or cam or aftermarket parts do you have on the 318?

You said that you did check the air door "drop" with either the engine running or with the choke pull-off plunger pushed in, so how much "drop" does the air door have?

Also have you tested the choke pull-off for leaks? Adjusting the metering rod piston will only affect idle, not a/f ratio.

Stick with the 800 cfm carb since the 850 is best suited for a 340 or 360 in a lighter car.

Adjust the 2ndary air door to 1-1/2" turns from when it first contacts the rear stop, DAVID.
__________________
Thermoquads made to perform!
Stock, street/strip and 1,000 cfm race carbs; also new parts for
Competition Series, 1971, 72-84
and SuperQuads at:
www.thermoquads.com
e-mail: demonsizzler1@cswebmail.com

Last edited by DEMON SIZZLER; 11-12-2002 at 10:32 AM..
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Old 11-12-2002, 03:07 PM
Bigfoot Bigfoot is offline
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Bigfoot, what part # is on the driver rear corner of the base plate of the T.Q. you are using? What smog equipment and or cam or aftermarket parts do you have on the 318?

A: The model number is 9232 and ported vacuum advance has been added. The only smog equipment that I have is the vapor canister. It has the stock 2 barrel cam and no aftermarket parts other than the conversion over to electronic ignition from the lean burn setup with junk yard vacuum advance distributor and orange ecu.

You said that you did check the air door "drop" with either the engine running or with the choke pull-off plunger pushed in, so how much "drop" does the air door have?

A: The air door has .2" drop with the pull-off plunger pushed in measured from the rear stop to the top of the door, hope I did that correctly.

Also have you tested the choke pull-off for leaks? Adjusting the metering rod piston will only affect idle, not a/f ratio.

A: I just tested the choke pull-off for leaks and there are no leaks, it just plain doesn't work. When I hooked up my vacuum pump to the choke pull-off it doesn't hold at all so I had a spare one from another junker and installed it and I will test it out again in the near future. Is this why I can’t seem to get a consistent launch from a standing still position?

So adjusting the metering rod piston is only for idle? So another wards you set the metering rod piston height as per your instructions and then set the idle mixture screws for highest rpm and vacuum as one would normally set up the idle circuit
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Old 11-12-2002, 08:37 PM
DEMON SIZZLER DEMON SIZZLER is offline
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If your choke pull-off is bad, then chances are really good that it is the culprit that is causing the bog; set the metering rod psiton height then adjust your idle mix screws, DAVID.
__________________
Thermoquads made to perform!
Stock, street/strip and 1,000 cfm race carbs; also new parts for
Competition Series, 1971, 72-84
and SuperQuads at:
www.thermoquads.com
e-mail: demonsizzler1@cswebmail.com
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Old 11-16-2002, 10:41 AM
joel spell's Avatar
joel spell joel spell is offline
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Question t-quad

YOU MENTIONED THAT THE 74-77 T-QUAD HAD TO HAVE THE TOP AND BASE PLATE MODIFIED FOR PERFORMANCE. COULD YOU TELL ME WHAT I HAVE TO DO, TO MAKE THIS CARB A STREET FIGHTER ON A 440?
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Old 11-16-2002, 11:20 AM
DEMON SIZZLER DEMON SIZZLER is offline
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Actually I said "except" 1974-1977 truck 440 carbs; I do not give out the info on how to mod the top/base plate because I have copywritten the proceedure. I would do those mods for you
for a nominal fee if you want to send the parts to me, DAVID.
__________________
Thermoquads made to perform!
Stock, street/strip and 1,000 cfm race carbs; also new parts for
Competition Series, 1971, 72-84
and SuperQuads at:
www.thermoquads.com
e-mail: demonsizzler1@cswebmail.com
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Old 11-19-2002, 11:26 AM
Dr. Righteous Dr. Righteous is offline
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Smile Hey Demon Sizzler!

I scored a 9800S Thermoquad off Ebay for about $45 bux.
The carb looks to be in used but excellent shape accept that the Bakelite electric choke thermostat housing got smashed in shipping. Is this a part that is still avalable ?

What do you think of this carb atop a 360 powered Ramcharger?
The chart shows this was a GM carb so I don't know its application accept that.
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Old 11-19-2002, 11:33 AM
DEMON SIZZLER DEMON SIZZLER is offline
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I will check into the choke housing for you Doc, DAVID.
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Thermoquads made to perform!
Stock, street/strip and 1,000 cfm race carbs; also new parts for
Competition Series, 1971, 72-84
and SuperQuads at:
www.thermoquads.com
e-mail: demonsizzler1@cswebmail.com
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Old 11-20-2002, 06:37 PM
RScheib RScheib is offline
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Hey Demon, I have a few follow up questions on TQ's. I happen to have a few of the late model 800cfm TQ's (9369s) with the vacuum assisted solenoid bowl vent. Hopefully, without giving your trade secrets away you can answer the following:

1. where can I find a new or rebuilt bowl vent solenoid? Every one I find has a ruptured or deteriorated vacuum diaphragm. Rebuild kits do not include new diaphragms.

2. Since I am not using the TQ on a original "pollution control" vehicle with fuel vapor recovery system, is the bowl vent solenoid necessary? The only concern I have is fuel evaporation on a hot engine after it is stopped. Other than that, I can find no performance difference with the solenoid removed.

3. which vacuum port is best used for a direct route to the vacuum advance on the distributor? I have been using the port on the front left (driver side) and my stock sb runs fine. I have a meduim build street 360 which I will be swapping soon and would like to know for sure to prevent detonation from premature advance during break in.

The TQ truly are amazing carbs. I can slap one on a stock 318 and tune within 5 minutes with no bog... remember, 800cfm! I can put the same TQ on built 340 or 360 and deliver all the performance I need for street. I have played with these carbs a while and found some slight mods to open up the airflow on the lower plate secondaries.... but I'm keepin that to myself also.

Demon, you say you have the correct jig to drill the lower plate and install butterfly shaft bushings. I have 2 lower plates that need some help. Give me your contact info and I will send them your way. $35 plus $5 per bushing is a deal! Thanks for any suggestion to the above questions.
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Old 11-20-2002, 06:44 PM
RScheib RScheib is offline
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Demon, I have one more question. I there an electric choke assemble that will attach to a late model TQ (9369s) so I can use it on a single plane or dual plane manifold without the cast in choke seat?
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Old 11-20-2002, 10:01 PM
5thAve 5thAve is offline
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RScheib, if that solenoid vacuum diaphram part is the kind that's sort of round with 3 holes in it the rebuild kit I got came with one. Connect the distributor to the ported vacuum source- has no vacuum at idle. I THINK the port I have mine running off of is the same one you're using.

At one point the parts store told me there was an electric choke available for the thermoquad and gave me a part #. I don't know what it is anymore, I think it might have been one of the #s I sent to Demon Sizzler. I was going to look into that if the regular style choke didn't work for me, but I never had to.
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Old 11-21-2002, 02:40 AM
DEMON SIZZLER DEMON SIZZLER is offline
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RScheib, try a NAPA to see if the solenoid is available; it is not necessary to wire up the solenoid on a non emissions engine nor will the gas evaporate quickly, but just remove the rubber vent from the solenoid.

The vacuum port you are using is correct. You should allways discard the 12 degree taper idle mix screws and use the 22 degree style for "tuning" purposes. Also use epoxy and fill in the two pencil lead size holes below the inside of the front choke tower wall.

You are correct about the sophistocation of the T.Q. and the versatility. I have personally installed an 850 cfm 73 440 T.Q. on a very mild 273 and it ran GREAT!

As a note of interest, I have just built a Dual Quad T.Q. setup for a 402 cu in poly 318 stroker that is a 450 hp engine. I have also just custom built a T.Q. for a street/strip 225 slant six, DAVID.
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Thermoquads made to perform!
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Old 11-24-2002, 11:48 AM
Bigfoot Bigfoot is offline
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Demon: Is there a way to lower the idle speed? I am not talking about the idle speed screw, it is currently right out of the carb and it is idling fine but I would like to increase the initial timing a bit which will also increase the idle and when I do, it idles at about 900 rpm which is way to high.
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Old 11-24-2002, 03:49 PM
Dr. Righteous Dr. Righteous is offline
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Question Vacuum Leak??

If you timing is set to the stock setting you should be able to crank the idle speed down just about until it stalls out. If you have it all the way down and your timing isn't too high, you might have a vacuum leak.
Double check your choke linkage settings and make sure that isn't holding the throttle plates open.
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  #24  
Old 11-24-2002, 08:15 PM
DEMON SIZZLER DEMON SIZZLER is offline
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If you are using a vacuum advance distributor, make sure that the hose for the advance is connected to the driver side front port. Also make sure that the "fast idle" adjuster is not interfering with the return of the throttle lever, DAVID.
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Thermoquads made to perform!
Stock, street/strip and 1,000 cfm race carbs; also new parts for
Competition Series, 1971, 72-84
and SuperQuads at:
www.thermoquads.com
e-mail: demonsizzler1@cswebmail.com
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Old 11-24-2002, 08:43 PM
RScheib RScheib is offline
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Demon - Just so I am sure about those pencil size holes you recommended to fill with epoxy... Are they the ones inside the top plate primary bores located just below the left and right sides of the choke tower and have brass inserts?? If these are the correct holes, they eventually lead to the primary jets thru the tube that goes into the deep well?? Hmmm.
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Old 11-25-2002, 07:59 PM
DEMON SIZZLER DEMON SIZZLER is offline
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Randy, the holes to fill in are directly below the front choke tower
wall, on the inside; what you are looking at are the off idle feeds.
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Thermoquads made to perform!
Stock, street/strip and 1,000 cfm race carbs; also new parts for
Competition Series, 1971, 72-84
and SuperQuads at:
www.thermoquads.com
e-mail: demonsizzler1@cswebmail.com
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  #27  
Old 11-25-2002, 10:52 PM
RScheib RScheib is offline
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Thanks Demon, those holes lead to the two front assembly screw holes (apprx 1/8" diameter). They were the logical choice, but I was confused about the pencil lead size you mentioned.

Bye the way if anyone is looking, I have a few 800cfm (late model) Thermoquads available. They are all complete and rebuildable. I can e-mail photos for preview upon request.
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Old 11-26-2002, 10:34 PM
Bigfoot Bigfoot is offline
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Demon: Another stupid question, somebody has to ask it. A couple of threads ago you stated that you just have to remove the rubber plug for the electric bowl vent and just let it vent into the air cleaner. What would you do with the purge line that goes to the carb from the charcoal canister? I have tried looking in older Haynes manuals for Trucks/Van’s and Cars and it looks like the charcoal canister only had two lines, one from the thermoquads bowl vent and the other to the gas tank or something like that. The reason I am asking is that my father-in-law has given me a thermoquad from a truck that he no longer needs and there is no purge port on the front of the carb. It has the vacuum advance and the pcv port as well as the manifold vacuum source and that is it. There is no purge port so what would I do with hose from the canister on my car, do I just plug it off? Would it then vent into the gas tank? Or do I add a port onto the underside of the air cleaner for it to vent into? If I could see an emissions sticker from a truck or van from the late 70’s I could figure it out but I can’t find one at my local library or at the wreckers so I thought I would ask you. This carb looks new and I would like to use it instead of the thermoquad that I have on there now, I think it has the dreaded throttle bushing vacuum le
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  #29  
Old 11-27-2002, 02:33 PM
DEMON SIZZLER DEMON SIZZLER is offline
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Lightbulb

Bigfoot, just put a vacuum cap over the fitting on the vapor canister. Rember that the cannister will still vent from the bottom past the filter, DAVID.
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Thermoquads made to perform!
Stock, street/strip and 1,000 cfm race carbs; also new parts for
Competition Series, 1971, 72-84
and SuperQuads at:
www.thermoquads.com
e-mail: demonsizzler1@cswebmail.com
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  #30  
Old 12-06-2002, 01:21 AM
buzzard_1959 buzzard_1959 is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by 71SATELITE
That reminds me, anybody want to buy a Holley 600? Cheap! For real.
I'm looking for one 71, I have a 1978 D150 with a 400 with a 383 4 barrel intake with a automatic like to dump my thermoquad and go with a holley if it has electric choke.
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