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  #1  
Old 10-07-2003, 11:41 PM
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Moulder Moulder is offline
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Default New rods, .990 or 1.031 wrist pins?

In a couple of weeks I'm going to buy a new set of manley rods for the 472 hemi I'm building. Should I go with the stock pin size of 1.031 or go with the .990 pin size?
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  #2  
Old 10-08-2003, 02:14 AM
DartGT66 DartGT66 is offline
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It's up to you. .990" pins and locks are easier to obtain, so I would propably choose them. Function or weight wise there isn't much difference; with the samller pin you'll have a heavier piston & rod with more material around the hole.
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  #3  
Old 10-08-2003, 07:51 PM
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What's the application?
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Old 10-15-2003, 05:24 PM
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It's going to be a street motor.
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  #5  
Old 10-15-2003, 06:30 PM
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I'd really go with the smaller pin...it's still pretty big as it is.
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  #6  
Old 10-15-2003, 11:01 PM
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Hey Windsor it lookes like you are running a crank trigger. Can you give me some basic information on them. Where do the spark plugs attack to? What is your engine (c.i.d.)? I saw an engine builders web site that had a hemi running one with what I beleive to be coil pack on the valve covers and efi. Would you recommend one for street use or is it race only? Do they replace the harmonic balancer?
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Old 10-16-2003, 02:40 AM
DartGT66 DartGT66 is offline
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I would propably pick the .990" pin too, but it has a lot to do with the piston availability. If you need customs for the .990 pins and can use off the shelf 1.031 pistons, then I would pick the bigger ones since it's easier to get replacements if needed.

Crank trigger is just that, it takes the ignition triggering from the damper. It does not replace the damper. It's more accurate than a distributor, and flexing does not play a significant part in a trigger like it may do if triggerec by a distributor. With the trigger you still use a distributor, to distribute the spark in to the correct cylinders. With a crank trigger you usually do not have any ignition curves, or you must have an external computer to produce one.

The coil pack system is different and is usually tied with the EFI. I think it's called "direct ignition" in English. It also takes a trigger signal out of (usually) the crank, then the engine manage system does everything else the way it is told to. That kinf of system does not need a distributor at all.
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Old 10-16-2003, 05:21 PM
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You hit the nail on the head DartGT66. This is an MSD set up, locked in at 32 or 34 degrees. This distributor is one that MSD swears will NOT work. YOu can talk to them at the track, on the phone, at the PRI and they will tell you that you are making a ig mistake???

I need to run a short distributor to clear the plenum of fabricated tunnels rams, or fuel regulator blocks in singe carb nitrous applicatations. I run a Windsor (Ford) block, but they only offer tall distributors for the Windsor. So I get the Cleveland/460 distributor and cjange the gear. It works perfectly. I dn't know what MSD's issue is hear?...I found out Bennet and Glidden do the same thing. Go figure?

Moulder - The engine pictured is a 423 Windsor (4.155x3.900) with Yates Hi-port heads (M-6049-C3H). It has run 7.80s @ 177 mph N/A. I have since switched to SS/O and OPS in a 1986 Mustang and added nitrous...I have some pics:
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  #9  
Old 10-16-2003, 05:29 PM
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More pics:
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  #10  
Old 10-16-2003, 05:30 PM
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...and another...sorry, can't help myself!
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  #11  
Old 10-16-2003, 10:39 PM
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I figured on getting a set of custom pistons made for it. the rods are .100 longer than stock and I'm using a 4.15 stroke crank. Who would you recomend for pistons? I have been toying with the idea of using a Holly efi setup. On your No2 set up you have what I have heard refered to as bungs welded to your manifold for your nozzels. On an efi set up would these bungs have to be welded to they manifold or could you make an adapter that the injector screws into and then screws into the manifold? I would like to fabricate something like this for a cleaner look, be able to remove and replace the adapter to install different injectors, and be able to remove and plug the holes if i ever decided to install a carb.
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  #12  
Old 10-17-2003, 01:53 AM
DartGT66 DartGT66 is offline
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Nice 'stang, seems like a potential package. We have only two fox mustangs racing here in Finland in the street classess, however our rules are pretty tight. Both of them are naturally aspirated; nitrous is not allowed.
This one has a 302 based windsor and has run 9.9's
http://81.17.193.8/voima/inertiaantu...i/MVC00053.JPG
And this one has a 351W based engine and has run 9.8's
http://81.17.193.8/voima/inertiaantu...i/MVC00059.JPG

If you obtain custom pistons, get the .990 pins. It makes finding spiro locks etc easier. What kind of Holley EFI have you thought about? If thinking about the throttle body system; forget it. Just use a good, maybe custom built carb and you'll be a lot happier with less money spent. This is of course only my opinion, but I have used both. If willing to have an EFI, get a true sequential fiel ibjection with the distributorless ignition. It's going to cost at least 4000$, but the lesser systems will propably not be able to support an engine like the one you are building.
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