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  #1  
Old 04-15-2008, 03:34 PM
thepassionofthecrust thepassionofthecrust is offline
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Default clutch adjustment?

I have a 65 valiant , with a 3 speed on the column. All of a sudden it is grinding really bad going into 1st and reverse. The pedal seems like it is really close to the floor, do I need to adjust the clutch or is this a linkage issue?

My car is pretty trick to drive, from ist you need to go up till you get very close to reverse and then bring it down a bit then push out and then up, is there a fix to this? Also sometime it "Pops" and will get stuck in 1st or 3rd, and you have to pull over and fool with the linkage

Thanks...

I gues my most important question is how do I adjust the clutch if necessasary.
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  #2  
Old 04-15-2008, 03:49 PM
dgc333 dgc333 is offline
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There is a piece that sticks out of the bell housing that is called a clutch fork. There is a rod that comes from the clutch actualtion linkage that fits into the clutch fork. The end of the rod at the fork is threaded and has a nut (should be 9/16"), this is the clutch adjustment. Turn the nut clockwise (when looking at the rod from the front of the car) to remove the free play. You want about 1" of free play in the pedal befor it starts to actuate the clutch.

On your column shifter. There is a plastic bushing at the end of the steering column (right below where the two levers come that move the shift rods). If you look at how this bushing is attached you will notice two screws that thread into the plastic bushing from the outside diameter of the column. These screws are in slotted holes that move up the length of the column. Lossen the screws and rotate the bushing in the direction towards the firewall to remove the slop in the linkage at this point.
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  #3  
Old 04-15-2008, 05:05 PM
thepassionofthecrust thepassionofthecrust is offline
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Thanks...I see a rod that comes out of the fire wall to the right of the linkage while looking at the car from the front. It then joins with another one that goes down on a slight angle, and then it joins witha nother that goes across into the tranny...I cant seem to find the adjustment bolt...what am I missing? Thanks!!
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  #4  
Old 04-15-2008, 05:13 PM
thepassionofthecrust thepassionofthecrust is offline
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here ya go
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  #5  
Old 04-15-2008, 05:28 PM
thepassionofthecrust thepassionofthecrust is offline
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Okay I think I see it. Are there 2 rubber washers at the end of it? The fork and the rod and the fork were barley touching, I just lifted it up and stuck it in there.
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  #6  
Old 04-15-2008, 05:40 PM
thatwasfunny thatwasfunny is offline
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You might have to extend/buy a longer rod to get the pedal height desired.

The pic's of a 66 valiant 3 on tree.
While the diagram is for 65-67 3 on tree.
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  #7  
Old 04-15-2008, 05:48 PM
thepassionofthecrust thepassionofthecrust is offline
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Wow cool, man thanks!
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  #8  
Old 04-15-2008, 05:51 PM
thepassionofthecrust thepassionofthecrust is offline
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Where did you get that diagram?
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  #9  
Old 04-15-2008, 05:57 PM
thatwasfunny thatwasfunny is offline
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MOTOR's
AutoRepair
Manual

Your welcome!
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  #10  
Old 04-15-2008, 06:08 PM
thatwasfunny thatwasfunny is offline
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Sorry it's so blurry, but you get the idea I hope.
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  #11  
Old 04-15-2008, 07:14 PM
dgc333 dgc333 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thepassionofthecrust View Post
Okay I think I see it. Are there 2 rubber washers at the end of it? The fork and the rod and the fork were barley touching, I just lifted it up and stuck it in there.

There is a rod that is attached to the clutch pedal that goes out through the firewall. It is attached to an arm that goes down and is welded to a tube that goes between the frame and bell housing. On the bottom of that tube is another arm that points down it will have a rod attached to it that goes back to the clutch fork. It is this rod that will have an adjustment nut on it.

There should be a very thick washer against the nut, then a rubber grommet that fits into the clutch fork that is sticking out of the bell housing. it is this nut you turn to adjust the free play in the clutch. If you can pull it out or just stick in because it was out there is something else wrong. That tube has plastic bushings in side it the the ends pivot on that could be worn or some thing else is bent, broken or worn. These guys have pretty much all the parts you need for the clutch and linkage. www.brewersperformance.com

The pictures that thatwasfunny posted are of the shifter linkage that I was trying to describe how to adjust. That column is a little different than the column shift that was in my 68 and does not appear to have the adjustable bushing that you could move to take the slop out of the linkage. You can see the screw I was referring too near the end of the column where the shaft comes out and there does not appear to be a slot to allow you to move the bushing. Parts for manual column shifters are hard to come buy so you will need to scourge around in junk yards looking for parts that are better than yours.
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  #12  
Old 04-16-2008, 11:26 AM
thepassionofthecrust thepassionofthecrust is offline
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Thanks guys!
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  #13  
Old 04-16-2008, 06:30 PM
thepassionofthecrust thepassionofthecrust is offline
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Well it worked!

I was scared there for a while...she drainin the walet pretty quick and I can't afford a clutch right now.

Thanks!
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  #14  
Old 04-17-2008, 07:12 PM
thepassionofthecrust thepassionofthecrust is offline
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Well it's jacked up again the threads on the adjustment rod are stripped...cripies, what now?
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  #15  
Old 04-17-2008, 11:44 PM
thatwasfunny thatwasfunny is offline
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A new rod, just check the local parts stores they gotta have one.
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  #16  
Old 04-18-2008, 07:11 AM
dgc333 dgc333 is offline
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Brewers Performance has all the clutch parts the rod is pretty cheap and they ship things out quickly.

www.brewersperformance.com
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