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#1
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how to make a performance slant six
hey there i have a 74 scamp 225 slant six 1bbl orig. motor. I would love to keep this motor in but i was a chevy man before now it's all MOPAR and I know nothing. I guess what i'm asking is how to make it a performance motor and the hp I can get from this block. I have a budget of $1000 what should I do?????????????? PLEASE HELP ME GUYS!!!! I've read also about putting a turbo on but if I can get a enough hp and torque from the block it's self i'll stay away from the turbo.
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#2
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You'll never do a turbo on a grand budget anyways. A blow through carb is a grand by itself and efi systems are 2 grand and over. You can mill the head .090 for a compression pump. Comp Cams will make you a custom cam. Get a set of 3 into one long tube headers and a 4 bbl intake and a 390 or 430 4 bbl. carb. A good shift kit from TCI and a low gear in an 8 1/4 axle will get you some real power. Get as much weight of the car as possible as well. And there's always a 100 to 200 shot of NOS to top it off. Less stress since it's a use it as you need it thing.
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#3
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so what do think the hp and torque be after that? What kind of tranny would I have. Thanks
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#4
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Stock tranny is an A904. It would be best to find an A727 for a slant six from a truck, but good luck trying to find that. Keep it light weight and the tranny should live.
HP depends on too many things to guess at. Weather and temp effects it, cam choice and any head will will really effect it as well. Ive seen some of these things run from 2 to 400 hp with the right work done to them. I've got a pic of one in a furry that the guy drag raced on slicks. Pretty heavy car too. I'll have to post it for you when I get on my other PC. |
#5
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ok thanks 400hp would be nice but to much money i'm looking anywhere from 250 to 350 hopefully. what should i bore the block out 2? heads should be
.090 taken off right? more info the better. thanks again |
#6
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I tend not to bore mine over than what is needed to clean up the bores and make them straight. Straighter the better for more hp on any engine. Main reason to use torque plates to simulate the heads torqued down when boring the bocks. I would not mill the head more than .090 so it wont be too thing and flex. No need to create a head gasket problem. Some port work on the heads would be a nice touch as well, but that's more money and best left to the pro's and not to someones back yard shop.
You could get rid of the fuel pump and run an electric to take the friction off the cam. Windage tray in the oil pan is a must have piece worth a few hp. Stock pump with the Mopar Performance high pressure spring is a must and should be all you need. Electric water pump drive will help put some hp back into the engine since you take the drag off the engine as well as an electric fan. Moroso makes a cheap water pump drive around 50 to 75 I think. Work on keeping the weight out of the car. |
#7
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I paid $400 for my head work. Not including porting. Lots was home ported and the rest done by a friend.
$$$ wise a 318 would be easier to get cheap HP |
#8
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As for a 727 out of a truck? What a waste!! If a 904 can take a stout SB it can take a slant.
Headers unless used are $400 Offy used 4bbl intakes are ususally $150 or more on slant sites $300 or so new. Get away from the silly advise here and go to www.slantsix.org |
#9
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There's you a couple intakes right at $100 and one at $250 with intake and two carbs, link. and air cleaners. Stuffs not really expensive at all. And A904s don't hold up real well behind V8's unless you put a lot of money into them. That's why most in the know use the A727's to replace them. They are pretty much bullet proof up til a certain point and then they need upgrading too.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Offen...d=p3911.c0.m14 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Offen...=p4506.c0.m245 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mopar...=p4506.c0.m245 |
#10
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I agree with rug trucker, forget about the 727 trans. Too big, too heavy, steals too much power, overkill for a slant. There is not a single slant six drag car I know about, running a 727, even 9 and 10 second cars.
Here is a thread on www.slantsix.org about my budget build 66 Valiant. Runs mid 13's in the 1/4 mile. Now up to about $2,000 in it, with paint and a new windshield. http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11218 |
#11
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OK, for a grand, I'd troll ebay etc. for the slant 6 performance intake from MOPAR, get a good cam, a good 350-400CFM dual barrel and a dual tri-Y exhaust header. There's your grand. Comp Cams has their new X-Tream Energy Cams which have faster ramps(which MOPARS can use due to their big tappets) than Chebby grinds. Milling the head eats over half your budget, and make the "old tech" heads less happy with pump swill. For a grand, there are some great new tech aluminum heads for the "Leaning Tower of Power", and great pistons to build 300HP, but that kills your budget. For a grand, aim towards 200HP at the crank, that's about an 80HP gain over stock, and you can feel that. I've seen small Street Demon's go on Craig's List for $80, and that's usually enough carb for 200HP, or find a two-barrel Carter and get it rebuilt. You can find those in salvages for $10, and Thrasher's Carbs here will rebuild it for $60 tops. Find as big a K&N air filter as will fit under your hood to flow some air. Good luck! Think cheap, and take some time and you'll find slant 6 parts reasonable. Really, with an auto and stock converter a less than 300 CFM carb will give you better low-end response, and 200HP won't bother a 904 tranny.
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#12
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$1000 aluminum Slant heads? Give me a link, I'll take 10 of them.
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#13
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Assuming the short block is good for my $1000 I would mill the head enough to get 8.5-9:1 compression (probably about .100"), install oversize valves, new springs and do some pocket porting. Find used a Holley 390 or 500 Edelbrock and an Offy intake. Go to the exhaust shop and have 2 1/4" exhaust made with a Dynomax Super Turbo muffler. The stock exhaust manifold is fine for now. I did this same build for my '67 Valiant with a 225 and 3-speed. I went from mid 19s to 17 flat in the 1/4 mile with 3.21 gears. If I want more power the compression will need to go up more to accommodate a longer duration cam and the clutch will need an upgrade.
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#14
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You can probably do a great deal better with $1K in your pocket than buying trouble with a Comp cam, overpaying for an out-of-production-and-not-especially-advantageous MP intake, or wasting dollars on a K&N air filter.
Comp now has cams they say aren't just shove-a-lot grinds on Mopar blanks? Great, fine, but they're very late to the party. Erson's been putting together great cams for slant-6ers for quite awhile, giving special deals to slant-6ers ( slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=21400 ), and unlike Comp, there haven't been constant issues with improperly-drilled oil holes, hydraulic-lifter profiles sold as solid-lifter cams, and other sloppy quality problems. Headers? Sure, if you want, but if you're driving on the street, look at Dutra Duals ( dutra.org/doug/doug-sl6-exhaust/dutra-duals.htm ). There are lots of intakes available for the slant-6 —iron and aluminum factory 2bbl intakes, short and long runner aluminum 4bbls, a twin 1bbl intake that can readily be converted to twin 2bbls, dual and triple sidedraft SUs, single and triple (maybe also double) sidedraft Webers, and there will shortly be three more exotic slant-6 intakes ( slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=204361#204361 ). Then there are the numerous ignition options, various head-prep techniques (ranging from "do it yourself" to "grossly overpay Clifford"), etc. Think first, spend later. That way costs less and gives better results than doing it the other way around. Before you spend even $10 (let alone $1000), put together some concrete goals for this car. Not in terms of horsepower numbers, but in terms of what the car does and doesn't do. How fast do you want to go, and how quickly do you want to be able to go that fast? Keep in mind you also need to be able to steer and stop from whatever speed you name... (As far as a newly-designed aluminum head for the slant-6 engine...don't think so, but I'd love to be proven wrong. Whoever can show me an actual source for any such a thing gets two free cases of his favorite beer delivered the next time I'm driving through his area. |
#15
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You'll be hard pressed to find a numbers matching 4-speed basket case Charger for $1,000.00
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#16
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There was write-up in Mopar Muscle a year or so ago about a new small chamber head I thought from Clifford, and I thought it was about a grand, but I've slept since then. I know there are intakes for downdraft Webers and such, but I thought they were pretty high dollar items. It would be a challenge to get 1HP per CID from the slant on a realistic budget(or most any naturally asperated motor at 5500RPM). High output per liter/CID doesn't come cheaply. The good-old slant 6 was always great for torque and drivability, but not for "cheap" performance. I poured way too many $$$ into a 240 Fairlady to increase it's performance. It worked, but it was not cheap.
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#17
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Quote:
I dont think anyone will dispute that. From what I read about clifford (never personally dealt with them directly) just there "magical" touches to your iron head runs about $1,000.00... |
#18
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Nope. Clifford offers a plain old ordinary production head that's had plain old ordinary port/polish work done on it and then been marked way up in price (to about $1K), that's all. You can get better work done much more cost-effectively in most any location with a competent machine shop.
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#19
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i mi name is rod,i am a new member.i am in a process of building a slant6 for my 63 dart,
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#20
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Quote:
Hi there! You'll find everything you need to know over at www.slantsix.org . |
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