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  #31  
Old 05-31-2012, 10:58 PM
vince23 vince23 is offline
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so im in the process of fixing the slant six and i noticed that the pistons with new rings have a little less than a millimeter of walk is this bad? and i found out that i need to have my crank ground down but its not expensive to do that
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  #32  
Old 05-31-2012, 11:54 PM
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Dick Dick is offline
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Biggrin

You will need new rod and main bearings for the reground crank.
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  #33  
Old 06-03-2012, 09:18 PM
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Confused

Before you do anything else finish your disassembly and have someone you TRUST measure everything. I know that can be tough to do, but you will save yourself time and money in the long run.

A mm of movement may or may not be bad, but you have to measure the whole bore to make sure it is round and straight.

If you don't have it out, you can not tell if the crank needs ground or not. Sometimes they can simply be polished and be fine.

Patience is your friend.
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  #34  
Old 06-03-2012, 09:43 PM
vince23 vince23 is offline
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well i know it needs to be ground as i can feel the groves and see them i got it micd and it can be fixed its going to cost me 150$.
but i have one problem i checked all the compression and all was good accept one cylinder had 0. so i did a valve check and put my air compressor through the spark plug hole and all the air came out the carb. so i took the head off and found that none of the valves were stuck now can re grinding the valves to were they are smooth help seal the leak? as i think that the valve is just not sealing itself all the way when its on completley
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  #35  
Old 06-03-2012, 09:55 PM
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rolleyes2

Lay the head with the ports up and pour water down the ports. If the valves are sealing good they will hold water. If not, you need a valve job.
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  #36  
Old 06-08-2012, 09:39 AM
Glenn E. Cozad Glenn E. Cozad is offline
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Who put the "3/4" cam in? Who was the cam Manufacurer? Was the cam properly centerlined? Did they use the Mopar offset keys? There are so may things that can affect total timing on the engine. Disconnect all vacuum lines, plug all ports and get the engine right first. Once you know that is right, you can adress all the other problems you have. Get some manuals and spend the time to read them. Teach yourself. Troubleshooting is a skill.
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  #37  
Old 06-08-2012, 07:06 PM
vince23 vince23 is offline
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so im not sure still learning what are the offset keys ?
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  #38  
Old 06-09-2012, 07:18 AM
chirorod chirorod is offline
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The offset keys are just that. The standard keys are simply keys. Offset keys are keys with an offset. This allows you to change cam timing. What is being suggested is that your cam timing is not set correctly, and that part of your problem might be that someone used an offset key. It sounds like this engine has had some modifications to increase horsepower. This means that someone with not much experience can run into confusion.
It might be best to tear it back down and measure everything, including bore, piston sizing, rings, valve stems, valve guides.
The engine might have been run with valves hitting pistons, thus bending valves. If that happened, it would explain stuck valves. And that would probably mean new valve guides and new valves where necessary. Piston damage would also mean new pistons. And it would mean that the cam lift and/or cam timing might be too much for those pistons.
I'm thinking that previous work might have been more than a little haphazard, which would reinforce the idea of starting from scratch. This could be a terrific learning experience, since you would have to figure out just about everything about an engine.
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  #39  
Old 06-11-2012, 12:28 PM
Glenn E. Cozad Glenn E. Cozad is offline
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vince23 My name is Glenn E. Cozad and I did get your reply about "what are the offset keys?" Depending on how much time you want to invest in knowing about this motor and what is happening and why, I would be more than happy to extend my help. Please understand, I will have you start with basics to find out what you have and go from there to basic diagnostic, "shade tree", tactics that are old but still work. Let me know. Thanx, Glenn.
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  #40  
Old 06-17-2012, 09:44 PM
vince23 vince23 is offline
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okay so i put everything back together i have it running but every time i put it into gear it stalls. i know that my brothers Chevy cavalier has converter lock out switch and we unplged it and it stopped stalling is there anything like that on my car?
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  #41  
Old 06-17-2012, 09:49 PM
Mroldfart2u Mroldfart2u is offline
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No.. unless its had a later model trans installed... Sounds more like a tuning issue, whether carb or timing will need more to diagnos
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  #42  
Old 06-18-2012, 01:14 PM
vince23 vince23 is offline
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i know it has a new trans in it and there are wires coming from the transmission but ill try adjusting the carb and the timing some more . but my car is still only wanting to run with it retarded
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  #43  
Old 06-19-2012, 06:38 AM
chirorod chirorod is offline
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I think it's time to make sure the timing is right. Turn it until timing mark is at TDC on the number one compression stroke. Then make sure rotor is aligned with number one contact on distributor cap. I am thinking you will have to pull distributor and put it back in to do this. If you have points, advance distributor until points are starting to open. Make sure you know which direction advances. If you have an electronic pickup, align reluctor tooth with projection. Then start it, let it warm up and set timing with light.
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  #44  
Old 06-21-2012, 02:27 AM
vince23 vince23 is offline
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okay so i got all of my cylinders to have the exact equal amount of compression (150) and i did the tree test timing now i take it on a test drive it has alot more power than the first run but still feels like its lacking some power. now could this be as i do not have 100% of the vacume lines hooked up and i was also wondering if having a bad universal joint (replacing tomorrow) will cause it to lack power? what else could i be missing ive ajusted the carb as well and it got more power.
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  #45  
Old 06-21-2012, 07:12 PM
vince23 vince23 is offline
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never mind i got all of my dusters power and she is finally running great!! taking her on a drive tonight and i will let you all know how that goes. letting the leaning beast out of its cage!
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  #46  
Old 07-13-2012, 07:39 AM
loydholman loydholman is offline
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I am agree with you..


Quote:
Originally Posted by chirorod View Post
Two major possibilities. The easiest is that the distributor is simply not in right. Take out Number 1 spark plug. Turn engine until you feel compression pushing past your finger. Continue turning until TDC lines up with pointer. Rotor should be pointing to cap number 1 contact. Best guess is it isn't. So distributor comes out and put back in so rotor lines up. Turn engine to correct timing mark. If you have points, turn distributor until points just start to open. If you have electronic ignition, turn distributor until reluctor tooth lines up with pickup coil extension. That is a static timing set and should be fairly close to a dynamic set, certainly close enough to get it running decently.
The worse possibility is that the cam timing is incorrect. That would require pulling the timing cover and re-positioning the cam sprocket in relation to the crank sprocket.
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