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  #1  
Old 05-18-2012, 02:54 AM
vince23 vince23 is offline
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Default Hello everyone. and please help

hello my name is Vince and i am new to mopar chat.
i need some help with my new 1973 duster. it has a slant six with .040 over pistons and i believe a 3/4 cam. i have replaced everything in the engine complete rebuild except for the power brake booster which is on order for tomorrow. my problem is i can not get it into time and when i put it into reverse and sometimes drive it will stall. could these problems be cause of the booster???:
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  #2  
Old 05-18-2012, 09:26 AM
Mroldfart2u Mroldfart2u is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vince23 View Post
hello my name is Vince and i am new to mopar chat.
i need some help with my new 1973 duster. it has a slant six with .040 over pistons and i believe a 3/4 cam. i have replaced everything in the engine complete rebuild except for the power brake booster which is on order for tomorrow. my problem is i can not get it into time and when i put it into reverse and sometimes drive it will stall. could these problems be cause of the booster???:

I cant say it is or isnt the cause. You have seemingly have an issue that leads you to believe that you are having vacuum issues. Easiest way to eliminate the booster is to disconnect the booster and plug the vacuum hose, and try it that way. BUT BEWARE IT WILL BE A LOT HARDER TO STOP AS NOW THERE IS NO VACUUM ASSIST!! There can be several causes on the timing issue, The static timing has to be correct, the initial timing has to be correct, the valve timing(timing chain and gears) has to be correct. The stalling could be timing related, or even carb related. Vince I normally dont send members to other sights, but there is a Slant Six only site and those guys have slanted blood types... WWW(dot)SlantSix.org Be sure to take out the (dot) and replace with a .
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Old 05-18-2012, 11:57 AM
440roadrunner 440roadrunner is offline
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Where do you have the timing set? You claim to have a "hot" cam, and these "like" a LOT more initial advance than "normal" and ESPECIALLY a lot more than '70's "smog" specs

You probably need to get the distributor recurved. I don't know specifics on /6 distributors, but the general idea is to buy an aftermarket (from Jegs or Summit) distributor "spring kit" which will have a selection of LIGHTER springs and will allow FASTER mechanical advance.

But you ALSO need to SHORTED the total amount of mechanical advance. This is because "stocker" (especially "smog" era distributors) have a VERY LONG and slow advance curve. You may have noticed that some "smoggers" call for initial timing AFTER TDC. This needs to be bumped up considerably for "hot" cams

I can't offer any specifics, I'm not a "6" guy
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Old 05-19-2012, 01:05 PM
vince23 vince23 is offline
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i put a brand new distributer in it and when i get it tdc it stalls but when its about 12 degrees advanced it idles perfect but it stil wont go into gear without stalling.
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  #5  
Old 05-19-2012, 02:07 PM
Mroldfart2u Mroldfart2u is offline
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In that case I would try carb adjustments.... Is the idle to slow? We are having to shoot in the dark on this because a 3/4 cam isnt exactly helpfull. thats an old old term that way back in the day meant something,but today it isnt helpfull.
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Old 05-19-2012, 05:25 PM
vince23 vince23 is offline
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Okay i will try the carb adjustments i have the idle set to about 850 right now.
i also have the valves torqued down to 25 is that the right amount?
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  #7  
Old 05-19-2012, 08:26 PM
440roadrunner 440roadrunner is offline
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???What do you ???mean?? you have the valves??? torqued down t0 25???

You have a shop manual? You know how to adjust valves?

Download a 72 shop manual free from here:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/...al%2C+download

They show rocker shaft bolts at 25 ft - lbs THIS MAY NOT BE CORRECT, do you have 5/16 or 3/8" bolts?? (There are mistakes in some manuals) If your rocker shaft bolts are 5/16 bolts (1/2" heads) tighten them to 200 inch - lbs or (divide by 12) about 15--17 ft-lbs

Did you ADJUST the valves? The 72 book shows them at .010" intake, .020 exhaust HOT
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Old 05-20-2012, 10:32 PM
vince23 vince23 is offline
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okay so i got it to drie but it is lacking alot of power. i believe it has somthing to doo with to choke pull off on the carb as it isnt opening all the way. i cant figure out why
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  #9  
Old 05-21-2012, 12:22 AM
vince23 vince23 is offline
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Default please help

so this is my first mopar car a 1973 plymouth duster 225 /6 and i have done almost everything i can to this car. just about everything on her is new. i just replaced the timing gears and chain and now i cant get it into time. the only way she will stay running is if i retard the timing mark. what am i doing wrong? oh and its .040 pistons and 3/4 cam if that makes any difference
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  #10  
Old 05-21-2012, 06:37 AM
chirorod chirorod is offline
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Two major possibilities. The easiest is that the distributor is simply not in right. Take out Number 1 spark plug. Turn engine until you feel compression pushing past your finger. Continue turning until TDC lines up with pointer. Rotor should be pointing to cap number 1 contact. Best guess is it isn't. So distributor comes out and put back in so rotor lines up. Turn engine to correct timing mark. If you have points, turn distributor until points just start to open. If you have electronic ignition, turn distributor until reluctor tooth lines up with pickup coil extension. That is a static timing set and should be fairly close to a dynamic set, certainly close enough to get it running decently.
The worse possibility is that the cam timing is incorrect. That would require pulling the timing cover and re-positioning the cam sprocket in relation to the crank sprocket.
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  #11  
Old 05-21-2012, 07:40 PM
vince23 vince23 is offline
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so my number six cylinder has 0 compression is there anything i can do to fix that? could just that one piston be bad as all of the other cylinders have 125 to 140 compression?
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  #12  
Old 05-21-2012, 07:41 PM
vince23 vince23 is offline
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so my number six cylinder has 0 compression anything i can do to fix that? all other cylinders have 125 to 140 compression could just the piston be replaced?
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  #13  
Old 05-21-2012, 08:54 PM
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Did you forget rings on that cylinder? Are you sure you used the right piston? Are you sure the valves are closing tight on the compression stroke?

Are you sure the compression gauge is seated correctly? A six with one dead cylinder would sure idle funny and have crappy performance.

Merged with other thread.
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  #14  
Old 05-22-2012, 02:12 AM
vince23 vince23 is offline
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all brand new rings none forgotten and i used .040 that were in the block. im thinking the head might need to be machined as the vlaves in the #6 are stuck with brand new valves
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Old 05-22-2012, 03:59 AM
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Biggrin

You're saying the valves in #6 are stuck?
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  #16  
Old 05-22-2012, 11:44 AM
vince23 vince23 is offline
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ya the number six valves are stuck
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Old 05-22-2012, 12:02 PM
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Biggrin

There's your no compression. Did you know they were sticky when you assembled the engine?
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  #18  
Old 05-22-2012, 12:18 PM
vince23 vince23 is offline
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okay so i got the car and the engine on a trade when i was putting the engine back together i found out that its had two spun connecting rod bearings, a bad distributor, 3 missing lifters, bad gaskets all around, snaped piston rings, bad power brake booster, a broken bolt in the head, bad starter, bad battery, broken timing chain and gear, bad water pump, and now the bad valves. when i assembled the engine the number six valves were a little rough going in but i didnt think anything of it like an idiot. so im praying that its not the head thats bad.
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Old 05-22-2012, 12:41 PM
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Biggrin

It might be as simple as cleaning/polishing the valve guides to free the valves up. Still, the head has to come off.
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Old 05-22-2012, 04:12 PM
vince23 vince23 is offline
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well problems might be fixed soon i found a slant six enginge for 140$ i just have to find a way to pick it up
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  #21  
Old 05-22-2012, 06:05 PM
Mroldfart2u Mroldfart2u is offline
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Vince you have a PM....
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  #22  
Old 05-22-2012, 06:06 PM
Mroldfart2u Mroldfart2u is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vince23 View Post
well problems might be fixed soon i found a slant six enginge for 140$ i just have to find a way to pick it up

And why would you start over if you have "fixed" all that was wrong with the engine to begin with?
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  #23  
Old 05-23-2012, 07:57 PM
vince23 vince23 is offline
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i dont have the money to have the engine machined i called a couple places and they all were around 2500 to have it done. but i might be throughing a 383 in it im not sure
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  #24  
Old 05-23-2012, 08:17 PM
vince23 vince23 is offline
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i can recieve pm but it wont let me send
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  #25  
Old 05-23-2012, 09:00 PM
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Quote:
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i can recieve pm but it wont let me send
A growing problem we have, typical of many popular boards, is that spamming has increased due to web bots and malicious programming.

The number of spam posts we received every day would astonish you. Most came in the wee hours of the night when most people are sleeping and board activity is low.

It is during that time period when most of the administration team would burn the midnight oil to purge and preen the board. Sometimes it was an overwhelming task.

There were attacks by malicious new users, no doubt computer generated, that posted URL links to porn sites or virus infections. Keeping these off the board was very difficult.

The change to require a 25 post threshold before URLs or photos can be posted was implemented to protect the board and to ensure that new members were truly interested in becoming part of the Moparchat family.

We still get spam attacks, but at least the number has reduced to a more manageable level and URLs and porn pictures are no longer an issue.

We regret that any new member feels inconvenienced, but it is a small price to pay for a worthwhile endeavor.

As a side note, those who post repetitive messages just to run the count up might find that, lacking worthwhile content, their posts may not "stick".

BTW, the forum software was set up like that many years ago by the administrator and the moderators do not have the ability to change it.
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Old 05-23-2012, 10:16 PM
vince23 vince23 is offline
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oh okay that makes sense haha
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Old 05-24-2012, 06:24 PM
old woolie old woolie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vince23 View Post
i dont have the money to have the engine machined i called a couple places and they all were around 2500 to have it done. but i might be throughing a 383 in it im not sure

I really don't know what to say to this.

It sounded like you fixed everything that was wrong with your slant and then discovered sticky valves on #6, now you are saying that the engine needs machined (??) for 2500 bucks, now you might swap to a 383? Do you have any idea what that entails?

I would try this hillbilly fix.

Take the rocker shaft off, spark plug out, stuff soft rope into cylinder through spark plug hole, make sure you leave some rope hanging out so you can remove it later, rotate engine by hand with a wrench on the crankshaft bolt until it won't turn anymore, using a valve spring compressor compress one valve spring and remove the keepers then lift the spring off.

When you have the spring off, remove the valve seal then connect a drill to the valve stem, remove rope from the cylinder, apply lot's of penetrating oil to the valve stem while rotating with the drill using an up and down motion until the valve moves freely, remove drill, stuff rope back into cylinder, install seal, spring and keepers, repeat with the other valve, install rocker shaft.

ADJUST ALL VALVES!

Replace rocker cover and whatever else was removed and drive.


I hope that I explained this clearly enough and that it helps you.


Yes it is a hillbilly fix and it will work. Good luck.
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Old 05-25-2012, 05:46 PM
te.ringer te.ringer is offline
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Note A Lot Of Sticking Valves Are Bent,good Luck
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  #29  
Old 05-25-2012, 11:04 PM
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Confused

Slow down here and take a deep breath.

Did you ever adjust the valves? Do you even know how?

If you have stuck valves you will also have bent pushrods.

Slants that sit a lot will tend to stick valves and bend pushrods.

I have unstuck Slant valves by simply rapping on the rocker arm with a plastic hammer. Spray the valve as best as you can with WD-40 before applying hammer.

If the pushrod is not bent into an S shape you can straighten it too until you can find some replacements.

Google is your friend. You can find tons of information by asking Google.
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Old 05-27-2012, 03:31 PM
vince23 vince23 is offline
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okay well thanks for the advice i think im going to pass on the 383 for now and hopefully fix the 225 your all right ive put too much work into it to give up now
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