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  #1  
Old 03-09-2013, 02:38 PM
te.ringer te.ringer is offline
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its nice and sunny here in the dc area,thought iwould repace the intake/exhaust gasket on my 225/6 duster 1973. I do this for a living should only take a couple of hours right? how do you get the nut off under the right center intake stud you cant get a socket or wrench on it.do you remove the head to get at it and how do you reinstall all the washers and torque them right also this is all stock never been touched.do you try to seperate the two manifolds and is the OEM head gasket metal or comp type?I have worked on all engines but never a slant 6,thats hard to say for a mopar guy.If its small blocks I can do them blind folded. many thanks.
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Old 03-09-2013, 03:06 PM
Rich Kinsley Rich Kinsley is offline
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It's been a long time, 1973ish since I rebuilt a couple 225's. I'm positive the head gasket was composite that I used. They were Fel-Pro I am sure. There is no need to pull the head to work on the exhaust/intake manifolds. I don't remember the particulars but it's doable. I do remember it's not likely that you can reuse the studs. They are probably pretty rusted out. There is bound to be torque specs and info in the service manual. Do you have one? Probably just about all the years would be the same for the /6. If you can't find it I can dig out my manual and give you the info. If you need my help e-mail me at rlkinsley@yahoo.com Git 'er dun :-)
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Old 03-09-2013, 04:06 PM
te.ringer te.ringer is offline
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Thanks for the reply but the problem is getting to the nut thats under the choke part of the exhaust manifold you cant see it, touch it or get a socket/wrench to it and I did get lucky with the studs sprayed them down with PB blaster for 2 days,all came out great but one!!! I cant get to it.so the head gasket would prob. be ok.It ran great over 1200rpm but would't idle it was sucking air around #4,5,6 intake runners at head.compression was at 145psi all cyl.the engine only has 85000 miles but the gasket ruster away.I wounder if it under warranty? only 40 years on it? it was american made.the heat riser weighted side is in front of stud/nut.
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Old 03-09-2013, 05:32 PM
te.ringer te.ringer is offline
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well finaly got the last nut off! but of coarse you allways find something new.now off to the machine shop,exhaust manifold eaten away will need to be resurfaced to hold a gasket.also only one valve steam seal was still in place(I should of stoped while I was ahead and left the valve adjustment alone .
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Old 03-10-2013, 02:02 PM
te.ringer te.ringer is offline
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while everything was apart so I did a cylinder leak down test, all valves held tight but could only get about 40% on some cylinders and the best was 60% had air leaking out 3 spark plugs holes so I pulled head and yes they did use steel shim head gaskets in 1973. but compression was good.It seems every time I go to fix something the engine allways comes apart!so more parts to the machine shop on monday!
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Old 03-10-2013, 03:06 PM
Rich Kinsley Rich Kinsley is offline
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I do know I put my engines together with the Fel-Pro composites. I think they are more user friendly It's pretty common to see the seals off the stems. I guess they just eventually stick to the stem. Why did air exit the s-plugs? Bad threads? Corroded threads? Plugs defective? I have seen Champion plugs come apart and leak something fierce.
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Old 03-10-2013, 06:17 PM
te.ringer te.ringer is offline
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the metal head gasket wasn't sealing ,you could see dark spots going past sealing ring area between cylinders. when i did the leak down test all plugs were out when I tested #6 cylinder air was leaking out #5and4 the rockerarm shaft was off so all valves were closed,pulled head apart all valves looked great no pitting,I think this is why it wouldn't idle, firing more then one cylinder at a time,the enging ran smother with #456 pulled off!
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  #8  
Old 04-08-2013, 05:23 PM
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Ray Bell Ray Bell is offline
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So how did you get to the difficult nut?

I'm faced with doing this job in a week or two, any heads up on will be handy.

Yes, Rich, this means the pickup is now in Australia...
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Old 05-05-2013, 05:05 PM
te.ringer te.ringer is offline
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sorry did not get back sooner I used a 1/2" swivel socket 1/4" drive with a 12" ext .when I put it back on the head ,it was on the work bench.
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Old 05-05-2013, 08:53 PM
Rich Kinsley Rich Kinsley is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray Bell View Post

Yes, Rich, this means the pickup is now in Australia...
================================================== =======

Glad you made it back home. What size tires did you put on it to get flotation for your trip?
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  #11  
Old 06-03-2013, 08:08 AM
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Ray Bell Ray Bell is offline
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Missed your reply... sorry...

It got stuck into a container and rode in a ship. They come with their own flotation devices, I believe.

As for the manifold, perhaps I don't have to remove it. My problem is the flange gasket, I was worried that the nuts wouldn't shift, but I've given them a good dose of Inox and I'll get back to them in a few days after feeding them with a bit more of it.

Only if I have problems there will I tackle the manifold itself.
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Old 06-16-2013, 09:37 PM
whtbaron whtbaron is offline
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Don't drop the manifold reinstalling or you'll break the dip stick tube off at the base like I did. Then I managed to drop the broken piece into the pan... Not fun...
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