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#61
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So today was the 31st.... make it with no appeal?
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#62
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Yes Sir! I am sooo glad that is over with! Did get some work in on it today and found out that the turn signal switch is bad. Also had 3 blown fuses! Also I looked at the tranny leak and rather then pull the tranny, I just going to try and just give it a service first. The pan is missing two bolts, and best I can tell it really looks like the leak is from the pan gasket.
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#63
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Cool....guess that's lesson #2 on getting a clear title?? Can't wait to see that car finished... it's going to be a sweet ride. Still working towards getting my heated shop so I'm a waaay behind you.
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#64
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Yea, but you'll ketch up fast once it's up and going!
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#65
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Well, I started to work on spreading the exhaust a little father apart. I took a 90 degree elbow, cut it in half and turned one half around and welded it back together. It now looks like a "S". I need to make one more then I'll install the "S" on each side and put in a balance tube at the same time. I'm spreading the exhaust to make it easier to service the trans.
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#66
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Great idea. I put flanges on both sides of my H-pipe in my Jeep way back in 72ish. That allowed me good tranny access.
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#67
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Thanks! I hadn't thought of flanges, that's a great Idea! Back to the drawing board! Good thing I've only done one side! Also replaced the turnsignal switch today and still no power going to the brake light switch, so the fuse panel is out and getting a good going over. Hopefully that will do it. Managed to get turn signals and tail lights, just no brake lights.
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#68
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Did you check for voltage at the brake light switch?
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#69
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Yes, and there is none. That's why the fuse panel came out. The brake light switch can't work if it doesn't have any power I believe.
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#70
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A lot of folks eyeball fuses to determine condition. Many times a fuse that looks good isn't. Did you test for voltage at the fuse (both sides)?
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#71
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... and rusty contacts at the fusebox itself...rusty grounds can be a real problem in older vehicles
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#72
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Well a buddy of mine offered to take the fuse panel home and take it apart. There was some rusty contacts that were nasty. It's all cleaned up and everything works again! Now if I can only finish the exhaust! The weather got a little cooler, just enough that it's keeping me inside!
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#73
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OK. Got the exhaust done for now. Later on I'll go back in and add flanges and a crossover, but it at least for now it's all back together and away from the tranny pan. Next up is replacing the idler arm. Then I'll drive it over to a buddy's house where we'll do the tranny service.
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#74
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Well I managed to get the Idler arm replaced easy enough, but then needed to shim the engine up 1/4" on the drivers side and 1/8" on the passengers side to get 1/4" clearance from the oil pan. Next I drove it across town to my friends where we did a tranny service and fixed a leak from the pan and one of the lines. Next up is getting the gas gauge working. It drove very nice, and the ride has gotten 100% better from driving it.
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#75
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Sounds like it's coming together now! Cool deal!
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#76
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Yep sure is. Yesterday I needed to pull the carb and adjust the link that closes the secondaries when the primaries are closed. It was bent and the secondaries were staying open a little bit. Next up is restoring power to the dash gauges. I would really like to see how much gas I have and have the factory tach working. It's starting to become a driver! Yes!
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#77
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Well I took a little side detour and started building a grille for the wee beastie, and it's coming along nicely. I will try to get some photo's up soon.
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#78
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Building a grille? Guess it's going to be part custom. LOL...most guys think it's work just to "find" one! Looking forward to the finished product... bar stock, tubing or wire?
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#79
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Well here's a few pix of what I've got so far. I still need to make up the filler piece that goes in-between the grille and the bumper,and fit my piece of stainless steel mesh to either the front or the back.
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#80
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so will you try to duplicate the original, or are you planning to make changes? Looks like you are off to a good start...
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#81
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I like it. That will come out great.
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#82
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Thanks! The idea is to have it look similar to a AMX, but also like a 73'-74' grille. I'll post more photos as it comes along. We have a major storm here the next couple of days, so I doubt I'll get much done as it's just too cold in the garage!
Here is what a 72' Grille looks like, and the last one is a 73'-74' grille. |
#83
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OK, here's what I've got so far. I still need to mount the turn signal lights behind the grille, and also need to make up the filler panel that covers the space in-between the grille and the bumper. I will also clean up the frame, and paint it. I'm thinking of leaving the stainless steel mesh unpainted. What's your thought's?
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#84
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I agree, leave the mesh unpainted.
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#85
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Beautiful workmanship. You're a true artist. Everybody's gonna think this is a Ferrari.
I worked as a tech for almost a year at a dealership that sold Toyotas and AMC's when the Javelins first arrived. I thought then and still think they are the prettiest of the muscle cars. Very nice lines. The build quality on some of them was atrocious. We had to do some of the pre-delivery and I remember a white one that was sold, so they were in a hurry to get the pre-d done. But It took me over a day. The hood, both doors, and deck lid needed to be aligned. I had to rebuild one of the headlight units, as it was pointed to the ground and wouldn't aim. One down pipe wasn't bolted on (sounded like it was ready for the track). It was missing a radiator hose. Also, other niggling, time-consuming details. It was fine when it left the shop. And very pretty in white. |
#86
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Thank you for the kind words! I've heard of some horror stories about fit and finish on different makes back in the day. My favorite muscle car is the E-body Cuda 1st, and the Javelin a close 2nd. Anyhow here's how it looks in the car. I still need to modify the hood latch, that's why the hood is up. I still have quite a bit to do still, but it's starting to take shape.
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#87
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Looking good... I see you've been busy with the primer gun too.
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#88
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Just a little bit. It had some spots that were bare metal, so they got a shot of primer to keep them from rusting.
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#89
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Primer is porous so if it's not going to get a full paint job for awhile, you may want to spray some paint, even from a spray can, over the primer.
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#90
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Agreed....if its' sitting outside, it will start to rust under the bondo and everything will lift off, and things will get nasty underneath. If it's already been outside for a while in primer expect to grind off the old body work and start over. It's better than nothing, but if you are looking for some temporary protection, at least apply a coat of sealer over the primer when you get the body work finished. One coat of flat black or something would help, but if you grab some of the cheap industrial enamels, you also run a risk of it lifting under the finish coats or new primer.
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