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#1
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69 Charger lost all power while driveing. NEED help
I have a 1969 Dodge Charger and i was driveing and all of a sudden i lost all power completely, all lights went out and then it died and back fired. It was as if all the power was shut off completely. The cabin filled with a little smoke and the smell of burnt wires. I opened the hood and noticed that the fuseable link was blown. I tried to reconnect it but it shorted out. Would it fix the problem if i replace the fuseable link or is their another problem? Need help as car is stuck on side of road. Their is absolute no power no lights wont turn over as if their is no battery.
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#2
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I don't have a wiring schematic for your car. But something has obviously shorted out. Get it towed home and you'll have to dig into what shorted out.
Sorry not really much help. |
#3
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Sounds like the AMP guage failed or shorted against the instrument cluster. It could also be a melted connection at the bulkhead connector.
You can run the coil positive to the battery and use a screwdriver to jump the connection at the starter relay. That would start the engine and limp it home. The alt will not be charging at that point. at the connection from the alternator at the bulkhead connector or at the amp guage, you do risk a possible fire. |
#4
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I finally figured out what had happened, the POS terminal on the Alt shorted out against the frame of the alt. because the terminal was loose all the way up into the alt. So when the alt shorted out it fried the AMP guage and also fried the fusible link. I got a new fusible link but was wonder if the parts place that sold the alt would pay the cost of a new AMP guage because it was their product that was the reason that the AMP guage fried
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#5
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Quote:
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#6
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Thanks for reply, at least you tried. I should have thought to look at the alt terminal at first but it was late at night and it was cold and didnt have any tools on me at the time
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#7
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since the Amp gauge is fried, will the alt still charge? It does start even though the amp gauge is bad
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#8
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I'm going to guess that since you can start it, you are probably getting power through the gauge even though it has failed in terms of functioning. If it was mine and it didn't charge , I would just hook the outgoing/incoming wires on the back of the gauge to one terminal and bypass the fried gauge completely. ( You are sure it's a amperage gauge and hasn't been changed to a voltmeter?) Good to know that fusible link worked the way it was supposed it, it may have saved your car from burning to the ground.
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#9
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#10
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Usually electrical component warranties are limited to the replacement value of the unit (in your case the alternator). You can plead your case for the cost of the amperage gauge, but I doubt that they will cough up for it.
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