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#1
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67 BELVEDERE 4 dRR
JUST A COUPLE OF QUICK QUESTIONS. oops didnt mean to yell.
my instrument lights dont work, i checked fuse block and batt. side of fuse block is not hot. inst. fuse and radio fuse not hot on either side. also feel a little miss at idle. replaced fuel filter and dismantled carb and cleaned it out. car had sat a few years. new wires etc. plugs and vacuum lines. engine does not seem to react to pulling vacuum line off. like it doesnt get any worse but then seems to smooth out when you throttle up. well that wasnt very quick was it, thanks for help |
#2
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Just off the top of my head, check the firewall connection, then the fuse block. I'm kind of surprised your car is running with this unless you're jumpering the ignition system and starting it with a screw driver. (not like I've ever had to do that myself! )
If you're talking about the vacuum line to the vacuum advance on the distributor, unhook it at the manifold and try to draw pressure on that side. If you can draw air thru the hose, then the rubber inside the advance unit has failed, and the whole thing needs to be replaced. If your 67 sat for any time with the windows down and not ran, you could have corrosion and bad connection issues in a lot of places. Finding junctions, cleaning them, then packing with di-electric grease before putting them back together can avoid potential and future headaches at times. Good luck with your Belvedere, come back and let us know how things go. |
#3
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sounds like a vaccum leak somewhere
look all hoses and connections over good and try holding your hand over the carb to see if it picks up rpms.Your distributor shouldnt get any vaccum at idle anyway but should get some at part throttle. Could be bad carb gasket or loose carb bolts,or dirt in the carb too.Turn the idle mixture adjustments out and see if they respond.Get it running good and start some tire fires.
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#4
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If it's just hte dash lights that have failed, I'd say it's just a bad reostat on the light switch and you;ll have to replace the switch. It's quite common.
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#5
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dqkid
thanks guys headed to shop to start on the items yall gave me. your help is appeciated
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#6
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re-problems
thanks again. i got electrical problems solved rust fuse block. still no dash light so i will order a new switch. tried to get dash out, seems like a chore anybody want to point me in the right direction.
rebuilt carb seems to be better or wishful thinking. already had done wires plugs etc. set plugs on .035 does that sound right. thats what book says but thats 37 year old specs. miss is just enough to make motor rock a little.I will go to later model distributor asap. MoparMarc -when i put my hand over carb nothing happened until i nearly had it closed off then it tried to die as it should. Stoga forgot to try your suggestion with vacuum advance. will tomorrow. installed r134a freon and now have cold air, got excited about that. i live in the south and abandoned other problems to ride around and cool off. |
#7
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so what motor is it
you never said,Im guessing 318-A with regular valve covers,might be low compression on a cylinder,they like to burn exhaust valves sometimes,pull the coil wire and roll it over and listen for uneven sounding rotation or a hissing sound,read the plugs and do a real compression test.If its a poly,jagged lower edge on valve covers,could have dropped a pushrod,they are solids and come out of adjustment.
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#8
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Sounds like slight vacuum leak.
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