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#1
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Gas Mileage Tips here!!
Greetings! With the rising gas prices going on now, and after several discussions, it looks like we need a good thread on mpg and how to get it!
I'll throw in a few basic tips to get started, and the first one is MAINTENANCE!! I know, pretty obvious. But, back when I used to bracket race fairly often, I noticed that my cars would pick up some gas mileage , that is, when I didnt have my throttle foot stuck to the floor!! You pick up a mpg here and a mpg there, and next thing you know you're talking some big savings! A few things I would always check that you wouldnt necessarily think about concerning mpg are: 1. Wheel Bearings: Be sure they have fresh grease and aren't loose due to age and neglect. That would be fronts on RWD and rears on FWD. Besides increased rolling friction due to neglect, if loose enough the rotors can lean over and actually contact the brake pads slightly! Definetly worth your time to have these maintained and properly adjusted, especially if not done in awhile. 2: Brakes: Similar situation as the wheel bearings, they can cause problems when neglected. Biggest thing is making sure your wheels spin free once the brakes are released. Possible causes for a sticking brake can include, stuck emergency brake cable or mechanism, adjustments set too tight, stuck or sticker brake caliper or wheel cylinder, blocked or defective brake hose, or blocked or kinked metal brake line. There are others, but these are the basics. 3: U-joints: It's a pain to get to but keeping these greased can have benefits, IF you have greaseable u-joints. On RWD all the power that goes to the wheels has to pass thru these points, so making sure they are in good shape can and lubed properly can remove a lil resistance from the drivetrain and may keep you from walking sometime. Ok, that's just a few basic tips, all suggestions are appreciated. It's gettin scary at those pumps, folks!!! |
#2
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Good suggestion there Sotga. I have a couple to add to the list.
You think if you subtract a 100lbs you'll gain a tenth at the strip? Think how much mpg you'll get by removing all the extra junk from your trunck and the 100 plus cd's from the golve box. Too big a tool box in the back. How many times you really break down and have what you need to fix it anyway? Just get the weight out. If your going to extremes, check out fiberglass parts. Air your tires up for less rolling resistance. Have your front end aligned and check for worn bushings and tie rod ends. If your wheels are not traveling straight, your wasting fuel and wearing out your tires too. |
#3
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yup, premium is 2.34 today
if your running an older car, timing and carburation are a must. be sure your timing is set perfect, and the carb is in good condition. a good runnig motor should have tan to dark brown spark plugs. also, a loose timing chain can cause bad economy.
exaust,.........for fuel economy, a big single system, or a X pipe system will perform the best, make sure you use quality mufflers like flowmasters! |
#4
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Another tip for better mpg, you'll have to get rid of that guzzling holley too. A thermoquad will get you a lot more mpg due to the smaller primaries. It will also get you better off the line throttle response requiring less throttle opening, therefore better mpg as well. Then when you need more power, well, you know how to kick the rear barrels open and empty your tank.
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#5
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Drive like there is an egg between your foot and the loud pedal.
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#6
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#7
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For all you fuel-injected guys, one thing I've noticed that makes a difference is keeping the throttle body clean. Get some cleaner, spray it in the butterfly(s), and wipe! For everyone, a clean air filter makes a world of difference as well. Also, make sure the various cables (throttle, etc) aren't sticking.
Dan |
#8
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The numerically lower gears are not always the best, lot's of the late 80s Dodges were geared in the 2.45 to 2.7 with tall tires, they could have done just as well with 2.94, maybe even 3.23s if the tires are tall enough. Some people wait to long to down shift too, and it bogs it all down, gotta stay in a good rpm that gives good torque I air my tires to less than the tire manufacturers limit, but more than the door jam says to, my brother in law sticks with the way it says in the door jam, I would wear tires on the sides if I ran them that low, the way I drive (my dad calls it "Juinor wear") on my pickup, I lower the pressure a tad if I know I'll be in the snow
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#9
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an electric cooling fan and waterpump drive will increace both porformance and gas milage, and inturn pay for themselves
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#10
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some pretty darn good suggestions in here. thanks!
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#11
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What I do Is just park my car in the warehouse and look at it. Or I'll invite people over to look at it. That way I don't have to go to the cruise nights or wear out tires. Of course it's not as much fun...
OR>..... Just get a boat load of money and drive the car any way...Also Start a business and use the gas as a write off... You have to expense it on a monthy basis but, the move you drive the more you save! |
#12
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Gary , do you not watch mythbusters? You must have missed the episode where they debunked that myth. LOL.
wayne |
#13
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1/ Avoid the high rpm 'drag' motor. Build your engine to have gobs of torque in a lower rpm power band/curve. 2/ No 'drag' gears! U want a Sure Grip to lay dual blackies, and then to hook, and highway gears around 3:1 to keep the rpm down. 3/ Big block or no block! My 440 had 480ft/lbs. factory!!!!What are u small block boys gonnna have 2 do to get that. I'll tell ya....crazy rpm! 4/ Use a spread bore, like a TQ. 5/ Consider an overdrive, like the 518. 6/ Avoid driving motor homes! 7/ Check tire pressure 8/ Remove the rear seat to reduce the # of arses. 9/ Tailgate ( er...I meant "Draft")fast movin semis. 10/ Get AAA to tow ya to the next gas bar. 11/ Buy the wife an electric car (helmet optional).
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#14
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SixMan..............
I agree that for the street, the torque is the way to go................
It will make you go fast and use less gas too. The touts of torque are many. But have you ever heard the cry of the banshee????????? The sound of a small block turning 9 to 10,000 rpm? Nascar does it every week. Yes, it much more expensive, but the sound is magnetic. |
#15
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How long is it going to last at 9 grand? Lots of expensive parts if u build for over 6-7 grand. Have u ever heard the cry of the car owner, when the engine gernades? The only reason Nascar is in this sorry state is cuz they banned what, what...the Hemi(darn them), the 440(damn them), the Winged Warriors (F@#% them). Now they run cubes the equivilent of a Ford 300-6 with a 0.030 overbore , and a 1BBL carb. How 'bout a four door Winged Warrior? Historically, Mother Mopar is very upset with NASCAR. Hey how 'bout if NHRA limits Top Fuelers to 305cid? Big Block A-Bodies are definitely on the harry-chested end of our family!!!
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#16
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Quote:
I will be looking and counting the amount of clowns getting out of a Nascar at the next circus I go to! |
#17
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That's intruiging theory re the drums expanding.... Scenario: Say, I go rally racing, in my '66 440 TNT NewYorker, get the four drums smokin hot, then back-up and brake several times all the way home, thus adjusting the shoes out tight to the now hot & expanded diameter of the drums. Park it, come out in the morning, would i find my binders locked up or heavily draggin?
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#18
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Actually, Nascar cup , truck, and Busch series engines are a max of 358 C.I. I think there is also a 355 min. and they last lots longer nowadays (at about 9200 rpm) then they did in the early 70's, even a couple years ago before nascar started telling them how numerically high the gears can be, to limit the rpm, they where near 10,000 rpm and more dependable than the early 70s. I do wish we could see them race the car of yesterday, put them in old Chargers, Chevelles, and Torinos, no chance of that!
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#19
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#20
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I wasn't talking about mileage, you went off a nascar tangent, I just stated facts. but no, a high rpm small block won't get much mileage. My step dads buick 455 got way better mileage in a 4 door '74 Limited then my 318 2 barrel auto shortbed truck, the point is low rpm torquers can get good mileage, if the right combo is used, and a 360 can get good mileage, so can a 340
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#21
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stepdad's buick
Quote:
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#22
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Dont drive a classic mopar? Unless its a feather duster, or a dart lite!
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#23
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I hate to say this, but gas prices still aren't high enough for the average person to bother do anything about it. Sure, people are COMPLAINING about the cost of gas, but they're not DOING anything different than they always have. People are still on the gas pedal up to the last second when approaching a stop light/sign, ther're still flooring it pulling away from said light/sign, and they're still clogging the roads on the way to the mall to buy crap they don't need. Americans have more disposable income than they know what to do with, so current gas prices aren't really affecting them all that much.
It's all about supply and demand. The number of cars on the road increases every day, increasing the demand for gas. As demand goes up, so does the price. It's going to take $6 or $8 for a gallon of gas before the average person starts to consider ways to use less of it. Just my opinion, your mileage may vary (pun intended). |
#24
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Anyone know how much.........
difference dual's would help mileage and mid-range power on my 91 Dak? It's a 318/ auto with single ex. I checked mileage at 18.3 but my passing power on the interstate sucks.
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#25
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40 bucks a week..
I spend about 40 bucks a week...I inflate my tires about 40...i watch my vacum gauge and keep it in the green. Go gently off the lights red to green, went to 391 gears from 410 and get into high gear as soon as possible.
Mainly stick to highway driving and mileage is greatly improved....Of course this is only one day of driving ....on the way home if you smoke some ricers and 3 launches from the stop lites ahhh yeah for one day...40 bucks..priceless until next saturday.... |
#26
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Here's a quick tip to help save some precious fuel:
When you're drag racing, only race Fords and Chevys. That way, you don't have to use too much throttle... |
#27
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I think replacing the carb with efi is supposed to help your mileage. Check out the massflo website, it seems like the way to go if you've got the cash to drop. As for o.d. Keisler apparently makes a top notch 5 and 6 speed manual and 4 speed automatic o.d. trannies if you dont mind waiting for them to send you the thing.
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#28
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Quote:
The problem with this idea is that they cost so much, you'll never get your money back in fuel savings. The car will be worn out and gas will go up before you save enough money from mpg to pay for it. Now if you bought a car with the stuff already in it, well that's another story. |
#29
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I sought of agree with DW here. The mileage gain is more likely slight, but it's there at a cost of??????
Same with the OD trannys. But in the long run, even more so if you drive the car alot or everyday, you will save. The payoff comes in the long run. Between the two and what should have allready been done, you'll do well. It's justa bang vs. the buck = payoff/cost. Simple mods seem to do best. Multi spark ignitions, air cleaners, headers w/free flowing exhaust, better intakes and heads, loss of parsidic (sp) drag ie; removale of the fan for electric fans, manual steering, no A/C. And for surley, a well tuned carb. (Keisler dosen't make tranny's, they use the Tremac manuals that can be mostly found in popular Ford Mustangs. But also other cars.) |
#30
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'parasitic' (from 'parasite)... 'removal' (from a check of what you typed)...
I agree too. The cost of installation of such things, unless it's something you want to do anyway, generally outweighs the fuel savings that are likely in normal use. In my case, I drive a car something like 4000 miles a month. A lot of that time I'm in territory where fuel prices are 25% higher than in the city, so I tend to carry extra fuel bought at city prices with me. A few drums in the back and I'll get through to the next capital rather than buying at inflated country prices. For me, doing something like this is practical. The car is a tool, used for business, so the expenditure is tax deductible or able to be written off over time and the savings are sufficient to make it all work. I will go another way, however, with a conversion to LPG, which sells here at about 45% the price of unleaded. I can't carry any extra drums with me, but the remote area prices are still well down on city unleaded price. |
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