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  #1  
Old 03-17-2006, 04:58 AM
mopr8u mopr8u is offline
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Default 671 blower manifold for 360

Hi guys,

Does anyone have any ideas how to get a 671 blower manifold for a360 smallblock?
BDS seem to be the only shop to stock them, Has anyone made an adaptor plate to fit an aftermarket manifold for a blower.
Any advise would be appreciated.
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  #2  
Old 03-18-2006, 07:06 AM
moparhippy moparhippy is offline
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Default 671 blower for small blocks

you might try dyers blower service. the've been around a very long time and make blowers for every mopar engine. they sell kits or a piece at a time. a kit for a big block starts out at $2500.oo
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  #3  
Old 03-24-2006, 06:26 AM
mopr8u mopr8u is offline
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Yeah, I have already had a chat to them.
Seems they will not make a 671 blower manifold for a 318/340/360
unless you buy a complete blower kit - Not much use to us mopar guys
who already have a blower.
BDS make a 2 piece unit which is an offenhauser manifold with an adaptor
plate welded on top but for some crazy price like $700 - 800!!!
Strange that not many guys in this forum havnt come across this situation before!
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  #4  
Old 03-24-2006, 07:11 AM
sanborn sanborn is offline
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I don't think anyone makes an intake to mount a GMC supercharger to a small block Mopar. If you want one, you must adapt it to an existing intake.

It's not that difficult, just requires some planning, time and a vertical milling machine. I would not weld the adapter plate to the intake, I would just bolt it.

Before you get started, do you have the blower drive system? If you already have a drive system, that may dictate exactly where on the intake the blower will be mounted.

About the intake. Your manifold will want to be totally open, all of the internal passages should be cut out. When you get through, you will have an opening about 4" wide by about 14" long. Then you must surface mill the intake flat---parallel to the crankshaft centerline. In the case of a small block, this would mean clamping the intake down to the milling machine bed, making sure the front and rear intake seal cast part of the intake was the only part of the intake touching the bed. Then milling the surface that formerly mounted the carbs perfectly flat. Don't mill off any more at the front of the intake than necessary. You will need to cut a large amount off the rear of the intake. After milling flat, you will probably need to redrill where the carb studs were. And if you have enough material, go to 3/8" USS threads.

You will also need to fabricate a "pop off" valve for the intake. This is usually easiest in the vertical area between where the carbs were originally mounted.

For the adapter plate, I would use 3/4" aluminum. You will need one bolt pattern to mount to the intake(eight holes, countersunk) and the necessary bolt pattern to mount the blower. Exactly where you mount the blower may be determined by the blower drive system.

I hope my explanation made some sense.
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  #5  
Old 03-25-2006, 06:58 AM
mopr8u mopr8u is offline
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Thankyou for that info, it proved very helpful.
Yes I do already have the drive system.
I have taken your advise & used a manifold I already had -
Its an edelbrock quad duel plane manifold.
I got the top milled, Got a aluminium adaptor plate made (Not cheap
& bolted it to the manifold with high tensile bolts (I did not mill the manifold too much as I didnt want the blower to sit too low -May as well flant it eh?)
Got the pressure relief valve added to the location you suggested.
The manifold had spread bore inlets(4 intake holes for each 4bl carb) as it is a duel plane, Do you think I should cut them out or leave them as is?
Or do you think that the manifold that I have used will be unsutible for a blower?

Thanks mate
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  #6  
Old 03-25-2006, 09:49 AM
sanborn sanborn is offline
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The Edelbrock manifold should be fine for the blower application.

Yes, do remove all the internal carb passages in the intake. The area directly under the blower should by totally open all the way down to the "floor" of the intake. Why? In reality the flow from the blower into the intake is not uniform---the flow is really greater at the front of the intake than the rear of the intake---so you want the flow in the intake to be without obstruction so the flow can equalize into the cylinder heads.

Just make sure when the blower is mounted on the intake----the crankshaft is parallel to the blower rotors---if not you WILL have a belt problem.
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  #7  
Old 03-26-2006, 10:07 PM
rdakota340 rdakota340 is offline
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Default bds r good blowers

hey!my brother had one on his 340 swinger it worked great he bought the hole set up it had 4.0lbs of boots great blower. i have a procharger i love it,good luck!!!
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  #8  
Old 03-27-2006, 11:34 AM
kick_the_reverb kick_the_reverb is offline
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Sanborn,
Thanks for the good info!
Recently I bought a used Weiand Tunnel Ram for cheap, thinking I might use it in the future as a basis for a blower manifold (wanting to find a B&m/Holley 250 someday, not a 6-71). From what I'm reading here, just using the bottom part of the tunnel ram might no be a good idea because of distribution problems?
Thanks,
Ran
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  #9  
Old 03-27-2006, 07:34 PM
sanborn sanborn is offline
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If you can fabricate a plenium to fit between the blower and the bottom part of the tunnel ram, it would probably be OK. The plenium should be 2-3" thick. This would allow for the mixture to equalize before it enters each intake runner.

Using a 4-53, 6-53, 8-53 and the B&M(which are all the same basic design) would be very helpful since the rotors are straight. The straight rotors would provide better distribution. The curved rotors(also called helix rotors) of the GMC 71 series cause the fuel distribution issue---but also give better seal/boost to the engine.
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  #10  
Old 03-27-2006, 08:35 PM
BDS 871 Cuda BDS 871 Cuda is offline
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Default Indy has blower intakes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mopr8u
Yeah, I have already had a chat to them.
Seems they will not make a 671 blower manifold for a 318/340/360
unless you buy a complete blower kit - Not much use to us mopar guys
who already have a blower.
BDS make a 2 piece unit which is an offenhauser manifold with an adaptor
plate welded on top but for some crazy price like $700 - 800!!!
Strange that not many guys in this forum havnt come across this situation before!
INDY sells blower intakes for around $800 to $900
Dont know to much about them. They make Big block intakes for sure.
360 ? You would have to call them.

If your having one made, they have to be 100% dead on or they eat belts!
What pullys? 1/2 inch pitch pullys make the belt jump at a higher boost
or higher rpm. Most street/strip guys run 8MM pullys and belt.
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  #11  
Old 03-27-2006, 09:03 PM
kick_the_reverb kick_the_reverb is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanborn
If you can fabricate a plenium to fit between the blower and the bottom part of the tunnel ram, it would probably be OK. The plenium should be 2-3" thick. This would allow for the mixture to equalize before it enters each intake runner.
Thanks, it's gonna be one tall setup, although I have seen it done. Won't pose a visibilty problem in my A-100, though
Kinda hard to find low rise 2X4 manifolds for the small block (Offenhauser has some but with the 273-318 ports).

Quote:
Originally Posted by sanborn
Using a 4-53, 6-53, 8-53 and the B&M(which are all the same basic design) would be very helpful since the rotors are straight. The straight rotors would provide better distribution. The curved rotors(also called helix rotors) of the GMC 71 series cause the fuel distribution issue---but also give better seal/boost to the engine.
I'm wondering about the B&M 250 if it's similar to the 53 series or not, the 250 was different because it looked more like a smaller version of the Mega Blower (it used the same manifold, a 2" gilmer style drive, had a bolt-on carb adaptor) rather than a bigger version of the 142/174 (or 144/177 if forget which one was the B&m and which one was the Weiand).
Anyone know if a 250 series B&M (now Weiand) blower has helix rotors or straight? I know all the B&M stuff had teflon strips.

BDS 8-71 CUDA - thanks for the tip about the belt jumping. I did not know about it.

Thanks,
Ran
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  #12  
Old 04-14-2006, 09:35 AM
kick_the_reverb kick_the_reverb is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kick_the_reverb

Anyone know if a 250 series B&M (now Weiand) blower has helix rotors or straight? I know all the B&M stuff had teflon strips.

Thanks,
Ran

Answering my own question here...I saw a B&M 250 on e-bay. The rotors are straight, as I thought. And it has teflon strips.
Now the trick is to find a good used one (not one of those stories "a bolt went through the blower, just a new teflon strip and it would be fine" - yeah, right).
Also, I still don't know what's the opinions about them regarding build quality. I heard that the tiny B&M blowers used mild steel rotor shafts, and once worn out, no one would rebuild them. I suspect the 250 is a different animal, but that remains to be seen. Problem is, I'm sure calling Holley/Weiand would not bring straight answers (becasue they bought B&M's supercharger line, but still make Weiand blowers). Calling someone like BDS would probably result in "they're crap, you need to buy our 6-71".

Ran
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  #13  
Old 02-10-2021, 08:48 AM
Gtxxjon Gtxxjon is offline
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Default 360 blower manifolds

Hi Moparchatters,

Had not seen this thread before about S/B blower manifolds.
My 360 has an adapted Offy intake, clumsy at best.
So I found an Indy Modman with blower top and hope this will be good?

I emailed PCE as they have every blower manifold except a Mopar.???


What is it about Mopars, is it a conspiracy...

I was wondering if the small block Ford intake could be made to work on a Poly engine???
Food for thought...

Last edited by Gtxxjon; 02-10-2021 at 08:50 AM.
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